FE00 is a nand error. The nand could be dead or bricked. But it could also be broken balls on the cpu side. you could try to reflow the cpu. check if you have 3.3v on C50. do not swap the eemc. it is married tot the cpu. search for dsi modchip. it's similar to picofly, but it needs the times entered manually. i haven't tried it yet. Also you can try to dump the nand with a card reader. there are tools that can bruteforce the keys based of the emmc production date.
Well done. Probably too late to comment, but you can make a discharge device (not for the CRT final anode) with a 10K 10W wirewound resistor and some cabled meter probes. Needless to say, do not touch the ends of the probes if discharging high voltages. I'm a fan of using a proper EHT probe to discharge CRTs, but the short to chassis approach is sort of ok if you are working on just a few TVs. Note that CRT final anodes can charge up again over several minutes.
I don't know what's wrong with My ds. When I plug in the charger, the orange light goes on and off for a second. This is it. So the power won't turn on. 😢
I use a 800mah 3.7v 14500 Cell in my Gameboy color and simply jump the other empty slot with a strand of copper wire folded over to make a "dummy" AA cell. Works great and lasts forever!
I had to search to understand what you meant. That's a good idea, I suppose it keeps the weight down too. I wonder if the contacts could be modded to run 2x 14500 in parallel to give the same 3.7V but double the mah.
@@PhilipBrydenYes. That would work as well, in fact that was my initial intent but found that a single cell lasts a very long time even with an ips mod but I still may do it in the future simply because I bought a pack of (2) 14500 Sanyo cells so want to make use of the second one. Let us know if you ever decide to go that route as I'd like to know what your first impressions are. Enjoy!
Hi @PhilipBryden , i have silver controler with the same error that you've got but my cable got only 8 pins and all 8 cables are connected to board. Analog led is on but controller don't response:/ What i sholud check next?
Hello mate, I’ve recently found my old ds lite and im having the same issue, the charging light turns on but it doesnt power on, what do you suggest I do, should I order a new battery?
You could use it to test and repair retro consoles! I used to repair arcade machine monitors, to discharge the CRT I had a massive flat headed screwdriver with a wire attached to it, an on the other end went onto a crocodile clip that I attached to a grounded point (I used the monitor frame). You put the screwdriver gently under the ‘suction cup’ to touch the metal contacts that go into the CRT. You’d get quite the ‘crack’ sound sometimes! But that was preferable to a whack of the voltage!
I've seen it done by other people, but haven't tried it myself. Too worried about damaging the CRT because I don't kow what is behind that little rubber suction cup thingy.
@@PhilipBryden Oh, there's a hole in the CRT that two little metal prongs under the suction cup hook into it.. they are pretty sturdy and hard to break.
Just looked on the back of mine to see it outputs 5.3V. So I'm wondering if you could run the GB from a modern USB powerbank. Perhaps install a modern powerbank in the original case.
@@PhilipBryden not sure. It'll probably be a few weeks before I get to it but I've got a few small usb power banks so I'll look at the numbers and see if they're compatible.
Excellent job! it's great to see a retro game on a CRT! The Mac Plus had no bleeding resistor so you had to discharge the CRT using a flat head screwdriver connected to ground. If you find the instructions on that discharge it might help you with your CRT.
Discharging the CRT doesn't look too difficult. It's a definite thing to do if I get another one. I was lucky with this one but I don't want to risk it again.
I paid £30 for it but I genuinely can't think of a use for it now analogue TV has been switched off and this model doesn't have any actual inputs. Hence my interest in modding it to composite if it's possible.
@@PhilipBryden The original Famicom only had RF out but I saw a Chinese video where a guy just soldered two RCA jacks to the board and it worked with Composite. I wonder if that could be done with your CRT? Of course the difference is soldered to input instead of output.
Perhaps the signal is composite before it goes through modulation to get RF which is basically radio. So adding an connector after the RF tuner board in the TV will let me plug in a composite input.
You need to open it up and look for any signs of damage. I see the P-70 takes batteries, are the battery contacts nice and clean? You'll need a multimeter to test the internal fuse if (it has one).
Excellent Job on the repair! I'm thinking of getting the RetroScaler2X as well for my AV famicom. 22:15 I noticed faint rainbow horizontal lines when you played the NES at the end of the video. Are those lines from the capture card? When playing on a TV do you have those rainbow lines as well?
I've just hooked the NES to the retroscaler and it does have horizontal lines which are paaarticulary noticebale on the flat background. Composite to the TV is much smoother. I'm not impressed. ru-vid.com/show-UC8x0hxOzJQEea5Qx2NzQ9igcommunity?lb=Ugkxl4xD1mT3c1sn_tyOqxlGOe0xzqHiJ-TN
@@PhilipBryden Found a workaround. Solder a wire from the hole right below the arrow mark where it says 'U5OUT' to the metal pad next to charging port! :) It is just less pretty but way easier.
So did you have the same fault as I did? Glad you got it sorted well done. Thanks for coming back and letting me know how you managed it. Your solution might help others too.
Do you possibly know how to find the Thermometer part for this incubator? I am getting incorrect temps on saying 128 degrees on my incubator when it's cold. I need to find the replacement thermometer part but cannot find it..
Hey i bought nintendo dslite online and ite dont have a battery and i bought a batter online for $3 and its not turning on but i dont have a charger so i think its
Hello, Phillip Just got my PS1, what do you think about my issue, the console has a green indicator while it is plugged, i could hear something moves there when i press on the power button, but the disc doesn’t spin at all, no signal at the telly. Thank you in advance
@@PhilipBryden I was cringing...but glad you saw them. I take them apart all the time. It really doesn't hurt the value. Good idea because you will find quite a few fakes out there. Also, do you price check your games?
my dsi has a problem where it turns on and everything works great, but the leds don't work. for example if i'm playing and i'm on high battery, the blue light won't appear. do you know how to fix this problem? also pls respond if you're reading this, the leds not working are kinda annoying :(
The LEDs are on small board on their own. You might be able to find a replacement easy enough. I would open the system and clean the ribbon connector for the LED board. If that doesn't work, try and find a used one.
Was it? I've not heard of that before. Interesting. I can try it next time I have a rusty screw. I've tried drilling them out before but seriously melted the plastic posts they've been in.
Hey Philip Next time you have a nasty stripped out screw like that, try using the dremel to cut a slit in the top with a cutting disk. Then you can get a bite on it with the flat head screwdriver. It doesn't work every time, but it's a last ditch effort before getting out the grinder and grinding away on the head.
You're right but cutting discs I had for the Dremel were too big for where the screw was. I just couldn't get in without damaging the surrounding plastic.
