Great testing and explanations. What if a person is spinning and when she is not facing the camera, will the camera immediately start to focus on someone else facing the camera? Will slow tracking sensitivity help in this case, i.e., locking on the person spinning?😁
Off hand, I'm not 100% sure. I want to say you can, and that I have, but firmware updates are far enough apart that I don't really remember exactly what I've done. That said, I'd prefer a USB-PD battery over a AC adapter, just to protect against the power going on in the middle of the update.
@callumleakfilms, I don't see how that helps here. On the R5C, the AF Lock button disables the AF system, it doesn't cause it to lock the track to a single subject.
@@PointsInFocus great... I have been trying to get my R5 to do just what is shown here and it never seems to go well. Like say,,,, track a logo on a coffee mug someone is lifting up to their mouth and back.
Tracking a logo on a mug like that is challenging any way you cut it. If the orientation changes significantly that's all that you need to lose tracking. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, it really depends on the subject. This is definitely one situation where a person pulling focus can do better than the camera can since the person knows what should be tracked, even if it changes shape or is obscured.
One one hand, you can save all of the menu settings to a file on a SD card. On the other hand, that doesn't work quite as well as the custom user modes on the regular EOS cameras.
I like deep plush eye cups and had to turn towards third party providers to get one. It replaces the stock Canon cup and installs via two small screws.
I have the R5. And have been experimenting with time lapse in movie mode. I would like to shoot a 12 hour time lapse with a 10 second interval. However my camera shuts down before completing. I am running and external battery so it’s not the related to power. I have a large enough CF express memory card so I do not believe these are causing my problem. I can only get about 6 hours of video before the camera powers down. It appears to write the video to a dat file Any help would be appreciated
Hey there, do you think the new battery introduced with R5II launch the LP-E6P would make an improvement when it comes to R5C battery life in video mode given that the new battery runs at 8.4V and higher base current capabilities ? Maybe it would allow full battery capacity usage instead of roughly 50% with LP-E6NH
Yes, at least that's what most indications right now are suggesting. I haven't done a full on run time test, but putting an E6P in the R5C upped my run estimate from ~56 minutes to ~86 minutes. That said, on a technical note, be careful trying to draw too many conclusions from the listed battery voltages here. Based on my understanding, all lithium ion chemistries have a max/charge limit voltage of 4.2V per cell (8.4V in a 2S battery like the LP-E6 series), though some designs have slightly different nominal cell voltages. LP-E6NHs will charge to 8.4V, just the same as the E6Ps do. An in fact, if I measure the voltages on some of my batteries, I get the similar full charge voltages for my E6s, E6NHs, and E6Ps or there about. I'm not entirely sure what exactly has changed in the batteries. My suspicion is that they are designed for higher discharge rates which lets them output more current at the lower end of their voltage range. And in the case of run time on the R5C, that's likely being limited in software with cutoff voltages based on safe max discharge profiles. And of course the labels are also new, with more information, including the max charge voltage (8.4V) and the nominal voltage (7.2V). But I don't know if that is because Panasonic is making them now, or if that's a new battery labeling requirement somewhere.
@@PointsInFocus They ware probably playing it safe knowing that LP-E6NH just could not deliver enough current to the R5C bellow certain voltage threshold .... i am also hoping they can mend limitations for 8k60 raw recording with this new battery
I'm going to try and sit down this week and take a look at the situation with the E6P and R5C. I want to see exactly what I get out of it, and what the camera can do.
A few more thoughts about this lens: I don't agree with everything that Canon does on the RF mount, including the tendency to make telephoto lenses darker and longer. For example, the 100-400 5.6-8 is not the best rethinking of the 70-300 4-5.6 class. It turned out not very sharp and in fact they stole several mm of aperture from us 😁. Not a very good exchange of focal length for aperture, in my opinion. But this 100-500mm lens is just so good, so functional and convenient that with all my desire to criticize Canon, I simply cannot.
Great review. I think that focus breathing is something that photographers who shoot small animals should think about. For example, birds or squirrels, even cats. We are all very used to the fact that prime lenses breathe forward, but we never think about it. And let's say a person shoots with 135 and he has a thought "I need just a little longer than that" and he goes to buy 70-200, for example, Tamron, which breathes terribly "backward". And so, just at the distance for shooting a squirrel or a cat, the real focal lengths of the 135 prime and long end of Tamron will intersect.... (And no, this is not a completely made-up scenario, I actually found that semi-tame park squirrels are great to shoot at 100-200mm focal lengths.) This lens is not so bad, but a person shooting birds with a 400mm prime may be puzzled, since he expected to see a more significant difference from +100mm. This lens can also be the ultimate telephoto landscape solution, although it is a bit of extra weight for a landscape photographer's backpack.
Really appreciate your detailed guides on the R5C. I don’t currently own the R5C, but have been considering and your videos have helped me understand its capabilities. Thank you.
I have the RF24-105 f2.8 and RF 35 1.4 On both, the customizable (on every camera but the R5C) has a default function of AF lock or at least something similar It disables AF while held so if you want to hold it and rack focus manually or simply keep the AF from hunting when your subject is already in frame, you can do that.
Hi Jason. Very good points! Besisides my photography I am an electronic engineer and have worked as such for more than 40 years, and I agree with you, that often People - technical or not - seem to know what different sides of the technology that will give precisely what we are looking for instead of focusing on what photographical specs, that are wanted. But OK, we all do this from time to time, and it might just be interesting... Nerding interesting. I am looking forward to watch your videos! Jan, DK
In reality the critical aspect of photo quality in today technology should not go backwards but rather a fraction better. The truth is the R5 is coming up 5years old and was technologically ahead of it time and in fact it's still relevant today. So what fundamentally was added is a bit of speed.Much like camera phones they have peaked .
I don’t know about everyone else but I’m a bit disappointed in the R5 ii. First of all in 75 degree weather after 1/2 hour of photos only…I DON’T do video, the camera started heating up to five bars and the heat from the camera started to get uncomfortable to hold. The autofocus is NOT groundbreaking at all…. I have lots of shots that are blurred that the autofocus point was right on yet not on the final product. I am an experienced wildlife photographer so I am hoping that there will be a firmware update or I need to work on my settings because something is not right.
That's disconcerting to hear. Couple of questions: What frame rate are you shooting at? Are you using the electronic shutter or mech? Also do you have the EVF set to high FPS or standard? RAW or CRAW? Also are you in the sun or the shade? Edit: Also what brand cards are you using?
@@PointsInFocus I am shooting at continuous high electronic shutter, I have the EVF set to high FPS smooth. I only shoot craw, I was in the shade under a tree and I am using a brand new ProGrade 512 gb CF express only.
Okay thanks... In the mean time I took my camera outside for maybe 5 minutes (it's 95°F out right now, hotter in the sun, and there's a thunderstorm coming [I know excuses, excuses]) and shot continuously for most of that time at 30 FPS (which even though I'm shooting stills, at that frame rate it's effectively shooting video). I didn't notice a temperature change, but I also don't think I was shooting long enough either. That said, having the VF set to smooth will increase the sensor read to 120 FPS and that does up the heat things up (as well as run the battery down). Craw is also more computationally complex than raw, and I don't think that the smaller files will offset that appreciably in terms of less card activity. I asked about the card, as I have some brands that get hotter than others. For example, my 256GB ProGrade Gold tends to stay cooler than my 1TB AngelBird. I also didn't see any focus errors in the images I looked at, though I didn't go though ever one of the ~500 frames I shot either. That said, I'll keep an eye out as I do more with the camera.
@@PointsInFocus I appreciate that, I think I am going to reset the camera to default and do my own settings and take your advice of course! I’ll report back
@@PointsInFocus I just wanted to thank you, I reset the camera and took your advice with settings and now the camera is working fine, no temp bar and it didn’t get warm to the touch! Thanks again!
Thanks for the video - I love how your videos take a topic and break it down so the viewers can get a general grasp of the workings involved. A R5-II topic I'd like to see when you get back to it is a dive into the auto focus functions that can be customized to buttons - depending on how you count them there are easily more than 20 that can be assigned to the various buttons, and their individual differences aren't always explained well in the manual. Some are fairly obvious but I'm sure there are some useful roles for some that I'm just not cluing in on. (Specifically I'm trying to figure how I can integrate eye-control auto focus with some back button auto focus setups I've seen out there.)
Great video, so informative, really appreciate. I'm confused about the XF-AVC 4k vs MP4 4k vs MP4 8k. Especially those two 4k codec, which one is oversampled? Thanks.
XF-AVC is very high bit-rate AVC (h.264) at 10-bits per pixel and 422 chroma sub sampling. Depending on the settings it can be either long GOP (IPB) or intra (ALL-I). MP4 HEVC is HEVC (h.265) in either 422 or 420 chroma at 10-bit per pixel. These are always long-GOP (IPB). MP4 AVC is AVC (h.264) compressed in 420 chroma at 8-bits per pixel and is also always long-GOP. However, on the R5C oversampling isn't controlled by the codec. All 2K and 4K files are over sampled except when shooting in S&F motion at >60 FPS.
I'm really not sure how Canon has come up with the USB-PD requirements. The R5 uses the 9V 3A (27W) profile, but I've never seen the camera actually draw anywhere near that. I don't see why the R5-II would need to up the voltage to 15V, but it does. Yes, it's written into the firmware what profile it requires for USB-PD, but that choice is based on the operating power requirements. The biggest instantaneous draw are the focus and zoom motors, and I don't know how much power lenses like the 24-105/2.8L Z or the Cine-Servo 17-120 w/ it's drive unit might actually pull. That said, the USB-PD spec is nearly 1200 pages long, and I haven't read all of it (only parts). I expect Canon is being conservative here, simply because it's much easier to to do so and have all of the edge cases work, than it is to cut things closer and have things not work in some cases.
I'd like to see an R5C vs R5II 8kRaw comparison from FB groups they're saying the dynamic range difference with Clog2 is significant in 4k modes but the difference in 8kraw is negligible. As an R5C owner if this checks out i'll probably buy a 2nd one used for a b cam rather than the R5II
It mounts fine and the camera powers on and seems to function properly. That said, I have no idea if there are any odd incompatibilities or if there may be problems handing the higher current of the new batteries.
My guess is it won't let you adjust the fan settings with the old batteries because even though you're using USB power, it could get disconnected at any time and the camera would have to switch back to battery power at that point. I've used the R5 for a while now but I'm really tempted to get the R5 Mk II at some point because it looks really promising. Looking forward to your other reviews of it.
Hey have Pre-Ordered mine, here in India, supposedly available after the 25th Aug... I will be waiting on your channel for my true "Canon R5 Mark II USER GUIDE" !!!
Hi Jason! Nice to see you and your technical advice on the R5 MK II. I got mine yesterday - with No spare batteries as you - and I am looking forward to watch your videos here. Serious stuff! Thanks! Jan, DK
Can’t wait for all your videos on the R5 Mark II! 💚 Some people have said it supposedly has less dynamic range than the mark 1, wonder what that’s all about 🕵🏼♂️🤔