Hi There, It’s hard to know what’s going on without seeing your saw. Make sure everything is clear of sawdust. If you have a compressor blow it off. If not try a brush. Have a look at the parts logically and think about how they work together. I don’t have that saw that my place any more but I recall a screw that is used to adjust the chain tension. Wind it all the way to the loose end of things (anti-clockwise). That screw moves a little pin back that fits into a hole in the chain bar. I think the brake also needs to be off. With my own saw which is a little different in design, I put the chain on the bar first, then when putting the bar back on the saw I loop the chain over the drive sprocket. Then put the cover back on and tighten the chain gradually making sure it rotates smoothly. Glad you liked the video and hope this helps you get it back together again. Dave
I’m glad you got something out of it. I hope you have the confidence to replace the bearings on your bike now. Always a good feeling when you fix stuff yourself! Thanks for commenting Dave
What actually caused the difficulty with pulling the cord at the start of the video which seems to have been remedied by the end of it?...my faithful 009L has suddenly developed the same problem 🙁
I think I decided in the finish that this saw was simply hard to pull or had high compression. It’s not my saw so I didn’t have the “before shot” to compare. Sometime you pull things apart and when you put them together again the problem is solved. Sorry I don’t have the golden nugget for you.
@@graemepotts-iv1gb I remember watching a video from a guy called donyboy who said something about the pull cord being hard to pull out. Check out my chain saw sharpening video. They cut like new after that 🤠
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k7iuY28eMeM.htmlsi=6G4QoBzORSbyms6C RU-vid recommended this video to me. Probably should have been to you 🤠 You might get something out of it. Dave
Thank you for showing the spring position at 30:12 I gave my 009 to my neighbour for inspection who took it apart and lost this particular spring to never be found. Now, 5 years later I found time for repair. Just wanted to make sure where its position is.
G'day Dave, stumbled on your channel and love it mate, just subbed 👍 I have the same Atlas and I'm head over heals with it, I've got a full set of change gears and use it for 99% of my single point threading, its a lovely bit of kit
Fantastic. I’m a Fitter and Turner from the 80’s so old school machinists taught me. Let me know if you have any questions. I love making old tools work again. Mine was mostly complete but so dirty it wouldn’t move. I’ve found a face plate and a milling attachment for it. I try and make replacement parts when possible. Thanks for saying Hi 🤠
That’s it exactly! Ella is our other horse and Mrs Shed had taken her for a ride around the paddock. I could see Indy was going to “Give her a call”. I didn’t have to wait long. 🤠
I just took some basic measurements with a tape measure then searched for “Rear Axel Chinese Quad Bike Honda Clone 200cc” Or something like that. Obviously change the words to suit your bike. If you don’t get any many results change the words a bit. It’s a bit of a risk getting the right one but ask questions to the seller if you’re not sure. I think I found mine on eBay. I think I mentioned at the end of my video that I didn’t actually need to replace the whole axel, I could have just replaced the bearings. It would have been about the same amount of work. I have also just changed the front bearings. That video is ready to edit and I’ll publish soon. Good luck David
Made in Ballarat Australia simple engines to work on my grandfather had one is fsrm in shearing shed to run the shearing gear hand the instructions book to set magnito points to width of two razor blades as most farmers had simple tools and no feeler to gauges
Off the top of my head the negative is usually the housing of the distributor. That is if the negative cable of your battery is connected to the frame of the vehicle. Some older cars were positive ground. Check out your battery to see where the cables go. I’d have to rewatch my video to see what I did as it was a few years ago now.
I just played the video again and I see my distributor does indeed have a negative wire. So all I can suggest is you do more research on exactly how your distributor is meant to be connected. Good luck, it’s likely to be grounded along with everything else. Let’s face it there has to be a negative in there somewhere 🤠
Thanks for letting me know you got something out of it. I feel like I’m talking Tax to myself sometimes 🤠 Hope you fixed your tap without calling a plumber!
Funny because I have einhell batteries which look identical to this one you have and also have the exact same issue of just 2 batteries with slightly lesser voltage than the rest and the charger just straight up refuses to fix that
You could do it with a chamfer tool like this one, just grind it to 30 deg instead of 45 deg. I think I have seen Abom79 true up a Center with a tiny boring bar with the compound slide set to 30 deg Abom has a lot of videos to sift through 🤠 You could grind a small boring bar from HSS fairly easily as it would not need to be very long. Just make sure you support your workpiece well with a steady rest if you can. Good luck and thanks for commenting. Dave
Not my best video but difficult to film in the dark under my old car. Glad you got something out of it. I generally film stuff I like doing not simply try to feed the YT algorithm. Thanks for commenting!
This was literally the very first time I started it. A while ago now but I think I was missing a spring under that knob to provide friction and stop the knob from turning due to vibration of the engine. There is a second video that shows me recording the RPM with one of those laser things. I have been procrastinating hooking this engine up to a power hacksaw to do some actual work 🤠 I need to gear it down from 900 rpm to about 60. Why not record your engine on your phone and show everyone how it runs. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-87iM0Rwju68.htmlsi=TAOhupwk8GfVeYH4 Dave
Mine situation was I replace the seat sensor, starter, solenoid, and ignition. It was the first safety switch with the blades. For some reason the safety was stuck in and wouldn’t turn over until I kept pushing the switch then it started.
I’m not sure what you mean? Do you like fixing and or making stuff? I surprised my self the other day. I bought a 90ish year old broken mantle clock, pulled it apart and put it back together again and now it works. I didn’t video it as it would be like watching paint dry.🤠
@@DavoShed That's right. You've said what one of my primary hobbies is, that has given me some entertainment, physically and mentally healthy activities and many helful, nice and durable tools/equipments. I feel your love and patience (never-giving-up) through your video. We're different at the present but totally have similar journeys of life. Be happy and best wishes from Vietnam...
Thanks I understand now. If you want to see me not giving up look for the one where I fix a broken tape measure I found in the rubbish at a building site.
I had that model and they oil like crazy, so the guy must have run the oil dry or failed to clean the bar for the bar to get that hot. Cleaning the spark plug was the cure on this fix in my opinion. This saw has plenty of torque but it's not a fast saw. So my guess is the owner is running it with too much oil in the mix causing the plug to foul. I ran 50:1 and never had any issues with the plug fouling. Great job in taking it all apart and putting it back together with it being a new saw to you. And taking the bur off the bar does matter in my opinion and a very good idea. Great video. 😎👍 PS. I wouldn't mind having that saw again. Very reliable little saw.
Thanks for commenting. Most saws are nice if you keep them sharp 🤠 I’m currently fixing a old Mantle Clock. I have it completely disassembled and I’m cleaning all those gears and bearings. I can’t help but think I’m an old dog and this is a new trick! Not sure if I’ll film it. Might be boring as hell for someone else to watch. Dave
Atlas made good quality equipment. I have been fixing things here and there on mine for years. I like old machines :) I have a play list with other how-to’s if you are interested. Depends how much experience you already have. Let me know if you can’t find it. Good luck and have fun.
I still get a laugh when I watch this video. I’m just waiting for it to go viral 🤠 For the record, Simon, the other guy at the table had no idea what was happening either. I just said get a table and two chairs out then hide the car. We only had a minute or two head start on you to set things up.
"...about a year old, can't take it back under warranty..." Doesn't really matter 2 years after the batteries were pulled apart, but Ozito have one of best (if not the best) warranties on the market. All PXC tools have a 5 year warranty and all the batteries have a 3 year warranty.
@@DavoShed That's alright - thanks for the video. I started buying Ozito around 2019 and have never had a problem. The latest tool I bought was the 36v chainsaw (2 x 18v) for cutting back my jacaranda trees. It's brilliant - so light and easy to use and flys through 12 inch branches no problem. Watched this video because I have 10 Ozito batteries now (2 x 3Ah + 8 x 4Ah) and thought I better get familiar with them in case they ever go out of balance. I've watched a heap of these videos now for all sorts of brands and the one thing I've noticed is that the Ozito batteries appear to have much more complicated circuitry in them compared to the more expensive brands. My opinion after using them for almost 5 years now is that the Ozito balancing circuit works better than most others. You will always get some that become unbalanced, but that will always be the case no matter the brand because there will always be small variations in the cells themselves.
It’s a bit like a 3D jigsaw puzzle. Except you only get to see how it looks on the way in. It did take a bit of courage but there was nothing to loose either. This is the Fitter bit of Fitter and Turner 🤠. Not sure if you remember but I did a course out of High School. Next video I’m fixing the brakes on the Limo. There is a fail then success in that one. It’s in the can now and I’ll probably publish it tomorrow. I’m also wanting to do a repair on my Grandfathers clock. I bought a cheap one with a matching movement to practice on. Not sure if I will video that one as I don’t know what I’m doing. My usual message is “If I can do it you probably can to” 🤠
So you went to your battery shop had your battery tested dead cell diagnosed should have just purchased a new replacement whilst there would have saved so much effort but you got there in the end so well done
Well I already had a brand new battery sitting there after the alternator failed on my car. This was the get home battery I had to buy instead of getting towed. They are worth a couple of hundred bucks and if I didn’t use it it would still be sitting there. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Again great video Dave! Found online the manual that came with the saw. Page 37 gives a description and exploded view of cleaning the oil pump. Appears to have a larger filter (sponge material) than your patient had. Thanks again.
That’s good news I found that oil was still disappearing out of the tank and I simply couldn’t see it flicking off the chain. I think if you need half to three quarters of oil each time you fill the fuel your probably going ok. Don’t forget to clear the little hole in the cutter bar. The bar can also be reversed to share the wear. If you can post the link to the manual here I’ll pin the comment for others to find! Well done
that is a great video Dave. I've got that old saw and want to do a clean up tune up on mine. Learned a lot from your video. Was the chain oil blocked? Think I see a second video to get the answer. thanks again.
This one is easy. Just fix the battery and you're done. Try this: new battery, new solenoid, new starter, new air filter & oil filter. Yet, it only cranks but doesn't turn over. I'm about to change the carburetor. If that doesn't make it start, I don't know what will.
Yes but I didn’t know that at the beginning. It turned out the battery had a partial short inside that was hard to determine. The goal is to home in on the problem without throwing parts at it. Regular maintenance parts like filters are a good idea anyway. If your engine turns over when you turn the key you have ruled out or already replaced the starter, solinoid and the battery as the problem. If you have replaced the air filter that’s good. It means it’s getting air. That leaves Compression, Fuel and spark. Take the spark plug out and re connect the cable, hold the threads against a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine being careful not to zap yourself. Wear rubber gloves if you are concerned about that. You should see a nice blue spark if you are inside. Can be hard to see in sunlight. If not then spark is your problem. If you don’t you could clean or replace the spark plug, they are cheap. It could be a compression problem but less likely. While the plug is out put your thumb over the spark plug hole turn the flywheel by hand. It should squeeze air past your thumb. If it doesn’t then that’s your problem. If you get a good spark put a tea spoon of fuel down the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug being careful not to cross the threads. Then try and start again. If it kicks and tries to run more than before then fuel is your problem. Check or replace the fuel filter if there is one. They are also cheap. If it still doesn’t go then your carb might need a clean. If so at most you will only need a gasket. There are heaps of carb cleaning videos out there.
Great video. Bloody interesting. Definitely “beyond ECONOMICAL repair” given how much a mechanic needs to charge per hour to make a living. I would run it on 25:1 for the first tank full.
Well If the machine is worth $1600 new and I reckon I could do it in 4 hours not counting waiting for parts (now that I know what I’m doing) Would you pay a mechanic say $500 to save it? The hard part is if the cylinder was badly scored would you pay $200 to hear “It’s rooted mate” I can understand them not wanting to open a hornets nest for potentially no return. Their tactics worked, the customer now has two machines, one with a blade and one with a line installed 🤠
I guess it depends on who is bearing the risk, if it turns out that it’s not just the piston that is damaged. Very impressed with the outcome. One of your best efforts I reckon. Ring squeezer was a pearler. 👍
@starshiptrooper7520 Well the customer would have to bear the risk. You could expect something like $200 to quote on it. Then it can quickly become uneconomical. Maybe they just replace fan belts 🤠 I wonder if this video will do as well as John Deere No Crank No start?
I must admit, I didn’t think you would be able to fix it with just the parts you bought. So did the owners pay for the assessment by the professional repairer or was that a free opinion?
@starshiptrooper7520 I thought I might need a head gasket but it was made of some rubbery kind of stuff. It’s going back into service today so we will find out how I really went!
www.buymeacoffee.com/davosshed If you like watching my RU-vid channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it. Consider subscribing if you haven’t already or simply drop me a comment to say hi or suggest a topic that I may like to cover. 🤠
www.buymeacoffee.com/davosshed If you like watching my RU-vid channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it. Consider subscribing if you haven’t already or simply drop me a comment to say hi or suggest a topic that I may like to cover. 🤠
Enjoyed your video.This may help you next time after checking open circuit voltage keep the meter on terminals and check the voltage drop <9.6 not good plus check charging voltage CHEERS
Good advice, although less than 11v it probably wouldn’t start. I could have made the video after I new the answer but there would be no fun in that 🤠 It’s still going strong although it has blown a head gasket since then. I diagnosed and fixed that but didn’t video it as I have never done one before. Looking back I should have videos it 🤠
11v is a very good 1.6 drop is excellent think of your car starter when the drop is > 10 is excellent Cheers check voltage drop for yourself you’ll find out what’s good check VD on both positive and ground if there’s a problem
@@anthonysova7117 I’m not really sure what you mean? Are you talking about the voltage drop while you are cranking the engine. I was always lead to believe this value was pretty meaningless. Anyway my battery had a dead short inside by the time it had a car ride to the battery shop. So it must have been hanging by a thread in there while I was trying to diagnose the problem which is why the volts still looked ok to start with. This turned out to be a good real world problem, so I left all the diagnostic steps in even though they didn’t find the problem. Not much fun running straight to the kill without the thrill of the chase! Thanks for taking an interest in my video
@@DavoShed voltage drop while cranking engine you can’t have VD without current flow or resistance (motor)A shorted battery looks like 10.5 open circuit voltage (at rest =1 cell shorted 2.11 volts+10 .55 =12.6 ) Next time you check a battery keep the DVOM on the terminals check at rest(OCV) then while cranking (VD) By the way 11v at VD is excellent hope this helps Cheers
This is the kinda thing I was searching for. Had to scan through 8-10 bullshit vids before finding yours. My fault for thinking I could get that knowledge in 5 min
Hi Nicholas, I never know which of my videos will be popular. I had to struggle myself to get it working again. Determination may be required. 🤠 I’m glad you got something out of it and thanks for letting me know! I know people harp on about safety stuff but definitely wear glasses and probably gloves when dealing with the spring. Good luck
Correct. It had hardly any amps. I took it to a battery specialist shop to give it a load test keeping in mind I know they sell batteries but by the time I travelled the 15km into town the voltage was only 10v or something like that. There was clearly a short or something stuffed inside the battery and the car ride into town made it worse. I hear that the vibration of mowers is hard on batteries and the charging system isn’t that great in the first place. Notably the replacement battery is still going great. I guess the take home is that the voltage reading isn’t fool proof. Keep an open mind.
Thanks for the video! I have seen people rotate it by hand. Why do you need a drill for the test? Edit: I skipped the part when you rotated it by hand 😂Sorry.. Another question while we're at it.. Does the same test apply to HEI setups?
If I remember correctly that distributor doesn’t have points. Does that make it HEI? I was trying to diagnose a bad coil but couldn’t get it to fail. It was fun making all the sparks🤠 The coil did fail on the car as I changed only that and the problem was solved. The cause was the distributor needed a ballast resistor and it had been removed. Replaced that and been good ever since. I did another video about that around the same time.
@@DavoShed I am not an expert. Just wanted to test a GM HEI ignition module that I have but I don't know how. That same module, sometimes, is inside the distributor as i have seen in videos. Mine is outside it, attached to a distributor through wires. The distributor is a non-contact from the inside. I think it used a magnet or something. Again, not an expert so excuse my lack of terms or knowledge.. Thank you for replying, it was really fun watching them sparks 😀
Stick to it I almost gave up a few times 🤠 Wear gloves and glasses! Mine is still going. Lives in my chainsaw kit now. What do I need with logs over 4m anyway. 🤠
I've done this today on a 2030 with a 1" shaft. The oil level was at the low mark on the dipstick and I reversed the rear wheels onto timber 250mm (10") high, removed the rear drain plug and drained 6L from the housing. You need a hooked 'pick' to remove and aid installing the seals - I forged one from a small screwdriver and filed the point blunt. If the seals have not previously been changed, you will find an o-ring under them which needs hooking out too but should not need replacing as the new nylon seals are deeper. It was very fiddly and not worth warming the seals as they cool down rapidly and it will take a few minutes to get them in! I found the following method successful; Push the shaft in so it just clears the inner housing. Push the seal in and try to get part of it seated in the groove, the rest will bulge and push the bulge up against the end of the shaft then carefully tap the shaft back so it is pushing the bulge while using the pick to work the remaining seal into the groove. It will partly seat but will need more persuasion with the pick. It's very fiddly and try and be patient! Good luck!
Sounds like your experience was different to mine. Well done getting it sorted! I have a hydraulic line to replace now. I’ll try and video that. I picked the part yesterday at nearly $500. I’m just waiting on a couple of large spanners arriving as the fittings are bigger than anything I have (except for a 15” shifter 🤠)
Thank you. I am going to attempt the same on my 2030 this week but am going to reverse the tractor onto some timbers in the hope that I won't have to drain too much oil out!
Worth a try but stay safe. I’d say it would need to be really steep to work. It might be more trouble than just draining it out. Get hold of some nice clean drums anyway. Let me know how it goes 🤠
@@charlestibbey2666 Did you end up draining the oil out? You wouldn’t believe it, mine sprung a new leak in a steel hydraulic pipe yesterday. One of the pipes down by the brake pedal has a dent and a tiny split in the seam. That’s not going to be cheap 🤠
