A page to post my experiences as a remodeling contractor and entrepreneur. I'm happy to share ideas on what I know how to do so that you can too! Subscribe would be nice! I’m on the road to 1K.
hello, thank you for the excursion 5 boat floor tutorial. I am from France and there is no comparison in the country. I would like if it is possible for you to send me the pattern (the printed model) for making the floor. I thank you in advance and thank you for the description. I will do a demo on RU-vid for French speakers with the transfer from inch to cm. Thanks again. See you soon.
Just finished my deck today based on the template and it's an absolute beaut! Best video on RU-vid to give an everyday Joe courage to take on a well worth it project. Thanks for the post!
The pipe was repaired. What’s unfortunate is that due to the deterioration of the pipe over time, I had more than 2 more pinhole leaks in other locations so I ended up digging out the whole main line and replacing it with PEX. All is well now, thanks for watching!
The water was off. If you've ever done this before, you'd know that water will typically continue to trickle from the house as gravity is still dispersing it from other fixtures in the home. Thanks for watching!
'm pretty sure paper towels will micro-scratch the surface (like swirl marks on car paint). I'd recommend trying holding a microfiber w/ warm distilled water on it for a couple minutes first since I think most TVs have chemical-sensitive coatings (e.g. anti reflective).
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I spent 20 minutes talking to Customer Support at Samsung and they had no idea what to do. I should have known to google first. 🤦♀
Excellent I found as you did you need to lightly tap the remover tool to move the slip connector or remove a valve/fitting. I purchased a metal remover tool making it much easier to install slip connectors or remove valves or other sharkbite type fittings.
Of all the RU-vid videos, this is the best floor mod I’ve seen. Definitely using this for the excursion I just ordered. One recommendation: I’m planning on adding fence cane bolts to the boards on top to really keep the boards in place and prevent any flexion.
Awesome video man! Do you think the method I've seen of tracing the seam on the bottom of the boat would work for a template? Someone said to trace an inch inside the seam, but I didn't see that in the videos of people doing it. So I don't know which to do. Also, did you need to make the sections a little smaller for the hinges to hinge? was the stability around the hinges better than without? I was hoping to do without (for storage purposes). If i put the foam tube all the way around each section would that help if I didn't have hinges? thank you in advance for any help yo can offer. I know I through a lot at you, but I would really appreciate it!
Notice on the shark bite sleave a mark 1" inside on the end that was connected last. It is not in the middle of the shark bite connection. The stopping point is 1" inside the second connection not at the middle. The other end also is in at least 1". It is set to the limit on the second connection and has about 1" gap inside the connection. It is correct, although at first it doesn't look like it.
Right so it’s slides and stops at one notch but moves very freely at the other. All you have to ensure is that it’s seated very well with the shorter notch and the other one is dependent on the pipe size you have
The pinhole I need to fix is about 3/4" from the shoulder of the T elbow,that is Not enough length is it? Also,this is my upstairs neighbors' kitchen supply line and she refuses to shut it off so can I do it with the water on?
I highly advise against doing it with the water on as the pressure from the water is no joke. I personally haven’t done it before like that but to turn off the water is simply only 15 minutes so I highly suggest taking that route if you can. For a temporary fix you might be able to get some garden hose with a metal screw clamp and tighten it down over that pinhole. Not sure about the longevity of it but it definitely has been done. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@myaudlife4399 OK Thanks, and yes I do have the Ace hdwre clamp on there and it is holding! I also bought a 6" piece of thick hose,2 hose clamps and a stick of that putty/glue gunk that supposedly hardens after you work it in there. 🙄🙂 Thanks for your really fast response sir! Appreciate it!
Unfortunately it was one that came with the house and even I can’t find where they sell them. They sell different types at your local improvement store or online. Just search “water meter key”
Hi! Really nice way to make a foldable floor. I was planning to do so first, but I am not actually sure if this hinged floor is stable enough on the water. So I was planning to make a 4 piece floor, with bolts and nuts in between the parts. So one can simply screw the parts together with a 3d printed nut sleeve. I think I will document the building process and share the video of this approach on here. Maybe this would help someone out as well.
you could make it very sturdy with a sliding type of kingpin that goes between each section, 2 one on each side. pretty simple to do just gota buy the hardware. sorta like what a trailer hitch has, you just need to bolt some U shaped shakles onto each section and slide a kingpin thru em.
@@Runescape. I wish I knew what you meant. I am very new to this, but would love to try your approach. Would you have a link to said sliding kingpin, or how to use them? It would be much appreciated!
Did you ever do it? I would love to see. I am wanting to make a 4 section floor as well, but am worried about stability. Unfortunately I don't know much about building stuff. What kind of nuts and bolts, and nut sleeve would I need? how would they attach to the sections? Thank you in advance if you can help me out!
@evan2290 hi! Unfortunately I didn't had the time yet to start this project. But I could make some 3D models on how to build this and make it public for others. Maybe on thingiverse, since I would 3D print some parts. I will post a link here im the comment section.
Looks like you’re right! Good correction. Well, if there’s very large sharp burrs that could fail the o rings then that would have to be addressed first with the de burring tool that I have
@@myaudlife4399 De-burring, reaming, checking for sharp edges absolutely, I think the thought about sanding is technically putting a profile, although minuscule on the pipe which could cause leaks. I am a Sharkbite user as well. I can sweat copper when needed and use Sharkbite fittings when convenient. I take a lot of care when installing them and have had no failures/leaks.
10:22 could not believe my eyes!! there are "teeth" inside the sharkbite and a washer. Using the provided Sharkbite orange tool is one thing, but using a hammer and wrench isn't a good idea.
You’d be surprised, out in the field nowadays with plumbers as plumbers, we do indeed actually just use a crescent wrench and wring it off. Another approach is using a pro press to attach pex in place
I see a lots of people talking about plumber hates shark bites .But hear me out for this kind of under ground installation without any pipe protection 😅.I can even reach you hot to solder or braze for free because it just hurt my eyes.🤦♂️,I don’t know much about the residential side, but I do love my job and I will count on my work to last till the building to be demolished
Sharkbites rule and properly installed last a good long time. I've got some in service from when they first became available over 15 years ago and they are still working fine. I even have them installed on hydronic copper heat runs - from the same time period - and they are still working great. You have to follow good plumbing practices when applying these types of push to connect fittings. The only people who don't like Sharkbite plumbing fittings are plumbers and HVAC types who want to charge you $200 an hour to fix a leak when you can do it yourself for $25.
Hey man, thanks for watching. With the way that our water meter is setup, you can simply use a crescent wrench to hold the nub and twist it to turn it on and off.
