Had mine for years. No issues except slight leak in the boot which can be common amongst all cars of this age. My father-in-law always had to do the same thing to other makes of cars
Just removed the high level brake light trim and was starting to get the side ones, according to the Haynes Manual instructions, which I believe are wrong, because the instructions say that: "The trim panel is composed of four sections. An upper section that covers the high level brake light, two side sections and the main lower section. The upper sections must be removed before the main lower panel can be removed. Prise free the upper brake light cover. Prise free the side panels. Remove the screws from the grab handles and then prise free the main panel." So the order should be to prise the high level brake light, then side ones, then lower one. But what I found is that the main lower section needs to be removed before the side ones because it holds the bottom of them, like shown in the video at 6:25 Also, there's a fifth central piece that holds the top of both side sections. The order would be something like: 1 - High level brake light trim 2 - upper small section (holding both side sections at the top) 3 - Main lower section 4- side sections It's recommended to use trim tools like the ones in the video. Fingers can't reach as far behind the panels, so you increase the possibility of breaking clips, if you pull farther away from them. Point of views according to the tailgate being closed.
@@lawrenceacquah96 sorry i can't make it. What I can say is, you open the tailgate.. You start with the high level brake light panel. In a corner, use one hand on the top and the other on the bottom. Note the panel has a tab on each corner which also hold the side panel. Pull and wiggle and the clips will unclip. Then you just continue until the panel comes off. Next, the other center panel, the one close to the tailgate mounting bolts. The clips are placed at the bottom, you can use your hand to pull the bottom of the panel in one corner. Note the panel has a tab on each corner also holding the side panels. You then continue to unclip all clips and remove the panel. To access the defogger connectors, you don't need to remove more panels. You can unclip a bit of the side panels so they hang on the top, and you can see the defogger connectors. You only need to remove the side panels if you want to acces the antenna connections. To remove the side panels, remove the big rear panel first. There are two screws on the inside pullers of the tailgate. Remove them. Start pulling from the screws area to unclip the back clips. Work your way around the panel until you can pull the front section (near the small rear mirror) with your hands. Start in one corner and wiggle that part to unclip, then continue until all front clips are removed. Then, you grab the front and the back of the panel and wiggle pull to remove the 2 center clips, and remove the panel. Note there are tabs on the side, holding the side panels. Then you just need to remove the side panels. One clip at the bottom, where it makes a curve, and two clips at the top
hello!! the trunk sensor light does not turn off even with the trunk open, do you have any ideas? Would you have to adjust the closure where you dropped a screw? thank you
I have a mk8 myself boot won't undo at all unless crawling into the back and releasing inside so how you have put this back together is how I need to de-assembly? :) To gain access to changing the boot actuator .
Interconnecting the two L+L terminals on Shelly is not needed for low power aplications as lights as those ports are connected internally. This Shelly Fits behind the ABB "Time" Double Switch inside 4cm deep box, together with 3 Wago, (each for 5 wires as I have too much wiring from other apliances in this box) - very tight fit, but fits. Thank you for this tutorial, exactly what I needed, works great with Google (both separate and in a group).
So, did you install a service door panel above the new valve? It's against code to 'hide' a shutoff valve inside walls or floors without adding a service access door.
Just strripped my boot out and had the same issue. I used tiger seal with a caulking gun and it's done the job. My car is black and so is tiger seal so no need to repaint 😀
That is interesting, I've had mine for 8 years, I only did oil and filters, tires and wiper blades. No faults or problems at all, except now, my boot is damp.
@@shif06 I guess I got a cursed one lol, in the past month its started leaking oil, leaking water in the back, the ac compressor wont engage, the cruise control stopped working, and there seems to be a parasitic draw killing the battery. Luckily I found where it was leaking oil and I fixed the ac compressor.
@@chancehackenbruch5529 If you still have the car the AC compressor not engaging is probably an electrical relay hat's stuck - a very easy and cheap repair on my Civic.
Forgot to mention that similar issue exists at the windscreen top corners as the car is put together the mastic in between the metal sheets gets brittle and cracks and need looking closely to be observed.
Hey all, have put sealant on around the hinge and seams described in the video, it rained heavily 2 days ago and water was still coming into bootwell, might there be another place the water is seeping in from, have been told that could be around the top of the rear bumper, where bumper meets the lights, anyone know if this might be true?
In case I didn't say, I just want to make things clear I'm not an electrician, I was just kind of copying what was already there . I was also putting trust in my extensive research on how to do this, and the consumer unit (mcb rcds) i figure if its wrong light either won't turn on or the rcds etc will trip out. Of the top of my head I'm sure it's a standard thing in a basic style circuit that the neutrals terminate together that is unless they are wired on purpose to run a live current. But all my Shelly's are still running fine, consumer unit isn't tripping out, switches are not over heating. FYI I've discovered that I don't think you can integrate shelly into 3 way switching. I've also linked all my Shelly to Google home, it works fine. Make sure you take lots of as is pics / videos in case it doesn't go to plan. Also I didn't trim any wires incase the worst happened and set up didn't work then I'd know I could return things back exactly same. The only problem with this was the pattress box was fuller than it needed to be with excess wiring this making it harder to close it all up
Nice one, mate. My light switch is wired identically to yours, so this is the perfect instructional video. Sheely 2 arrives Fri or Sat and I am feeling way more confident about wiring it now! Any reason you terminated both neutrals at a block, rather than attach them directly into Shelly? My pattress has even less space than yours, so I'm looking for any saving I can find... May have to resort to a spacer though.
In case I didn't say, I just want to make things clear I'm not an electrician, I was just kind of copying what was already there . I was also putting trust in my extensive research on how to do this, and the consumer unit (mcb rcds) i figure if its wrong light either won't turn on or the rcds etc will trip out. Of the top of my head I'm sure it's a standard thing in a basic style circuit that the neutrals terminate together that is unless they are wired on purpose to run a live current. But all my Shelly's are still running fine, consumer unit isn't tripping out, switches are not over heating. FYI I've discovered that I don't think you can integrate shelly into 3 way switching. I've also linked all my Shelly to Google home, it works fine. Make sure you take lots of as is pics / videos in case it doesn't go to plan. Also I didn't trim any wires incase the worst happened and set up didn't work then I'd know I could return things back exactly same. The only problem with this was the pattress box was fuller than it needed to be with excess wiring this making it harder to close it all up
In case I didn't say, I just want to make things clear I'm not an electrician, I was just kind of copying what was already there . I was also putting trust in my extensive research on how to do this, and the consumer unit (mcb rcds) i figure if its wrong light either won't turn on or the rcds etc will trip out. Of the top of my head I'm sure it's a standard thing in a basic style circuit that the neutrals terminate together that is unless they are wired on purpose to run a live current. But all my Shelly's are still running fine, consumer unit isn't tripping out, switches are not over heating. FYI I've discovered that I don't think you can integrate shelly into 3 way switching. I've also linked all my Shelly to Google home, it works fine. Make sure you take lots of as is pics / videos in case it doesn't go to plan. Also I didn't trim any wires incase the worst happened and set up didn't work then I'd know I could return things back exactly same. The only problem with this was the pattress box was fuller than it needed to be with excess wiring this making it harder to close it all up
@@TheSquiz01 your situation mirrors mine exactly, right down to using Google Assistant to control the Shelly! I've set up a test wiring scenario on a 15W light that has its own plug socket and inline switch, to confirm my research and understanding is good. Whilst it's only a 1 gang setup, I think it'll cement my confidence to tackle the light switch with your video being an exact copy of my pattress config. Cheers!
Installed the 2.5 yesterday and it works like a charm on two sets of courtyard lights. Linked to Google Home and loving the fact we can now control our outside lights. The pre wiring setup was genius and saved loads of time fiddling with cables in the wall. Had to use a spacer to get it all to fit, mainly because of the live and neutral connector blocks. I suspect it would fit without spacer if I had a more streamlined block solution. Next I've bought some Shelly dimmer switches and going to automate my living room ceiling lights which are controlled via double gang boxes, thankfully!
Yep, it fits, but you may have to be creative, eg I punched out some of the other aluminum circles in the back box and bent & push wires back out through the holes . I pushed some of the white plastic connector blocks out as well. They could have just been trimmed right down, but as I'm not an electrician, if I cock it up I wouldn't be able to reverse it. Then you give the switch plate a good hard shove and they will be fine. Mine are still good. One thing though, I haven't figured out how to use the app for automatically turn lights on and off. I just been using my mobile and Google assistant
Hello, the problem is that I cannot order the shelly 2.5 from outside the house with the cloud, I have activated the cloud from internet by IP, it can be seen that it is activated, but no is it that there is a cloud problem?
Hi, i was about to buy 75 sqm of this but now having second thoughts. How is the floor now after being down a few years? Did you have any additional problems?
What size are 280or 288mm my one I check today on tape show me 283 mm but can be because is some rosted metal on edge I don't have a proper tool to mesure
I would leave well alone if I was you before you get seriously hurt, you are promoting bad practice and other people watching this may get injured.You need axle stands and wheel chocks as a minimum requirement!As to the size of ratchet drives which in your case are 3/8” & 1/2” if something is tight you should use a breaker bar, it will save your knuckles and stop you breaking your ratchet. Also levering out the calliper bolts with a screwdriver may damage the threads . On rebuild you should use a torque wrench to tighten all nuts and bolts to manufactures specification. Have a safe day.
sorry it's taken months to reply, I'm a novice at RU-vid and it wouldn't let me post comments. I used this underlay because the shop we bought the balance click flooring from said they used it all the time. After installation and it delaminated, they said it had never happened before. we installed it out selves. BTW, we installed the replacement or selves with the proper under lay and 9 months later flooring is OK, so I like to think that proves it is not us that caused the problem. some of the replacement boxes had delaminated before we installed them to! it seems ridiculous that customers have to take delivery of a sealed box of flooring and have to accept it's not faulty, so we filmed ourselves opening them in case ( & to prove) some boxes were faulty. BTW, our supplier used a 3rd party wholesaler in Manchester to get the stock. Unilin never tested the original underlay in any way, so I would not like to say what caused the delamination fault, needless to say if you don't use the official underlay you will have a very tough time getting a refund (we eventually did). I asked unilin, if Unilin underlay is so crucial, why do they not make it compulsory to purchase it with the flooring? they never gave me an answer.
