Reviews of mini RC cars, radios, Indoor racing of mini z awd and rwd ,BZ3,gla, amz, DRz, sz, wl toys. Always modding(sometimes 3d printing) always racing! 😁 Always looking for new cars to review ....feel free to add suggestions!
Good day to you sir! Do you actually still using the 1.5v lithium battery? Is the Xtar 1200mwh lithium batta good enough for rwd mr03/04? Thank you for sharing!
My Kodama keeps chewing up the plastic bevel gear that is right before the differential. I've gone through 2 of them in a short amount of time. Have you experienced this kind of wearing on the bevel gear?
Only about an hour and a half. I contacted Onisiki and asked if they're planning to make a gear out of a metal. I was told a copper gear is in production.
Hi, do mini-z ASF or MHS board with gyro works for these 2wd drift cars? Are the turning angle enough? I would like to mod the 3 wire servo to 5 wire for the mini-z board.
im still trying to build up the courage to assemble mine. Looks great! thanks for all the up close shots, ill have to refer back while im putting it together
Just wondering what gyro would you use on the ma030 for drifting? I have a std mini z awd r33 and it came std with a gyro but it has a 4 pin plug where as the ma030 has a 3 pin..
I have the MRX chassis , what do you recommend as far as a ready painted body for this chassis. Great looking bodies for that model , I also order the chassis as well.
Hi , I really love your videos! I have a bunch of friends and we all so 1:28 drifting. But we also love to change out Chassis to racers, fit grip tires and do a Little Racing after the Drift Challenge. No Hardcore Racing. Just fun and carefully, no one wants to damage his drift-Chassis. And here is the problem. Most new drifters don’t have Open diffs. And Most Even don’t have the option to one. So maybe you could make a overview of Cars with Open diffs/closed Diffs with/without Option on open diffs and try, if one fits any chassis ?!? I really Like the TG Chassis, but I want a Ball diff. So I am thinking of buying one and trying to modifie a Ball diff from other to fit in. You do have all chassis and so all Diffs. So maybe you could look if Diffs are interchangeable somehow. For me, the TG would be Most interesting with Open diff. And I really think, there are lots of people out there, who want to know, if they could install a Ball Diff into their Drift chassis. Just an idea. But maybe worth to think of… Thanks
Hello such a great vid, so I’m not a rookie to rc. I build 1/24 crawlers and 1/10th cars. I’d like to purchase a drifter but so many options out there. I truly get what you say hard to pick a favorite. So my question would be what would be a beginner drift car to drive. The building isn’t a problem putting upgrades not a problem. Not sure how much $$$ to throw into this but willing to pay for an all around drift car. I’ve watched a few of your vids and you’re pretty experienced so I value your opinion. My receiver is the Flysky gt5. So I’d like to continue with that. Not sure to buy a RTR or build from scratch. Help with some advise. Alex
A good build from scratch is alwys better for experience .small scale drfiters are twitchy to set up. You can get a micro rx for the gt5 so that should be ok. It really depends on on the level of begginer , i am going to build the ma racing chassis next and i have been told its a good build and straight forwrds but epic in ability.
At 7:02 : About the potentiometer, I changed in my MA20, the oem (brushed)mainbord with a mainboard brushless of MR03 VE, but the potentiometer are not the same. Now with this VE mainboard MR03 and my MA20 oem potentiometer, my car lost a lot of travel in the stearing. I tryed to use in parall 2 resistance of 33KR, but no change, any idea ? thanks in advance ! and congratulations for your channel !
My assumptions, please correct me if I'm wrong : 1. Kit is too low, not enough play for suspension, other impact, there isn't much weight shifting/transfer going on in this kit 2. Front chamber too much, makes it so aggresive, quicker changes direction, but disadvantages for long wide drift 3. Outer front tires ackerman is so small, remember, drifting in RWD rear tires pushing forwards not sideways, so while turning outer side of front wheel needs enough angle to make curve or parabolic actions 4. Weight too much in rear, makes car easily spin like pendulum 5. Too much toe angle in rear tires ? same as point no. 3, rear tires pushing forwards, little bit turning, one side rear tires already pointing into a corner, I assume that's why real drift car not much done setting toe in for rear tires 6. Rear motor stuck with car body (trunk) ? 7. Tires not flat correct ? I assume it has less contact to track, less contact means less grip
all your points pretty much correct but , adjustable and correctable. this car is aimed at a beginner in my opinion . For more in depth tuning other cars have more going for them but also cost more.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Looks from the appearence it's look like for pro's 😁 By the way, nice, interesting and educating video in terms of RC hobby of course 🥰😁🙏
Because of this video I got a GL-GLA and went absolutely silly with all the upgrades and using it with a 2008 WRC Kyosho hard body. About the same setup as yours except I have a sensored setup and brass 94mm body to make it work with the 2008 WRC kyosho body. I ordered extra arms to do the same thing you did to get the extra ride height.
Love it.....mini rc drives crazy ideas. ...im planning another 98mm set up and a 94mm set up. Will have more time soon to do this and make more videos. Feel free to post a pic and tag me on instagram .
So I just picked one of these up as im converting a 1/24 model to RC, and it was advertised as 90-127mm wheelbase chassis.. but I cannot for the life of me get this car anywhere near 120mm.. Is there another adjustment I'm missing? I have the chassis extended all the way based on the four screws in the middle but it's not even close.
@@GarageMiniRCUK I'm going to hopefully have this assembled tomorrow, how do you do it?? Is there a piece I'm missing or something? Looking at the listing on Amazon there's another T shaped part that mine didn't come with and I'm thinking that's the chassis extension I need..
I know that driver and chassis tuning makes or breaks it, but after watching a lot of vids the DA really changes directions well and can hold alot of angle without spinning out. I’m curious if you can give us comparisons on which chassis can hold the most angle, change directions easiest etc, your last comparo vid was great btw. I’ve had a DRZ-MS for the last 4 months, maxed out on tuning and while I enjoy my Atomic, I can safely say my car will not drift like the DAs that see posted on RU-vid. I’m curious for your feedback since you have experience with just about every small chassis on the market. I want to be able to throw the back of the car into a corner with a lot of angle and hold it for longer distances, my DRZ won’t do it and I believe it’s due to it’s steering setup won’t let me get enough angle for a few reasons I don’t have time to explain here. Thanks in advance for your reactions on this…
@@GarageMiniRCUK awesome thank you! The one thing I haven’t tried yet Is reversing the pod; I’m running 106mm but I also had it at 98mm and it was worse actually. I’m eagerly looking forward to see what you come up with, thanks again!
@@darthamidala I have the DRZ v3 as well and from what i have experienced the main components to get it to drift like you want is weight balance and most importantly tire selection. With the motor forward my weight balance is 40/60 f/r and it drifts pretty well in both directions and crosses over pretty well provided there isn't too much traction. If the tires don't match the surface i'm driving on it can't get very much angle at all because of too much grip. When the motor is in the back it will swing like crazy and you can get insane angle but again if you don't have the right tires it won't be controllable. It will either carry too much speed and not hold the drift properly or spin out constantly. It can be made to work well in either configuration with the right amount of grip though the main difference i found was speed. Motor forward maintains a higher speed while drifting and rearward can do the slower high angle drifts easier but it is much more sensitive to driver input and tire selection.
Thanks for this info! I have the motor in the forward position (I haven’t tried switching it around yet), and so far I’ve used the stock kit tires, LS1 and currently a set of 20mm wheels/tires I got off Amazon. The surface I’m drifting on is some pretty slick porcelain tile, slipperier than my hardwood floor in the other room. I’m glad you told me that I should be able to get slower drifts with the motor at the back; basically my car is great on throttle medium to high speed drifts, but if I try to “back it in” (as Chris Harris says) and throw the car into a drift, it doesn’t like that. Plus slow speed drifts it wants to catch and spin. But ON throttle, med-high speed she’s great! I’ll try reversing the motor and see what happens!
Hey bud do you build these kits for clients ? I’m looking to having something built. I want the best car possible and you seem the the man. Is this something you do ?😊
I use to do it a lot , less time these days. Its time consuming and even though i love it , it the cars always need some kind of aftercare , thats easy if you are within the uk.
Wow! Great overview! Could you subtitle the cars? I‘m getting confused witch models you are talking about. Maybe also chapters with timecode would help. 😃 Thank you for your videos!
