This is a channel about car stuff! Join our host Andrew (me) as I do various things with various cars. Repairs, upgrades, fixes, modifications, and also a sprinkling of photo and video tips relating to automotive subjects. Watch as I try to keep my eclectic mix of vehicles on the road and looking good.
Your points are spot on. These are old, awkward, smelly cars. They are far from fast. However, they are very well engineered. With that, they become one of the most rewarding relationships you could have with a machine. Every tiny bushing, cable, strut, alignment, replacement, or adjustment is felt through the controls and switch gear like no other car. If you really want disappointment drive a 308 Ferrari...
Excellent video overall, only reason i showed up was for the Volvo 240 I will be coming back to this video for when i repair the interior plastics in my 1988 240 sedan
Quick question please, bought a used set of American Racing looks similar to ones OEM w/ large tear drop holes from 90's? mine has lug hole slot meant for washers. your lugs look like what I need! w/ a flat end that mat to rim. do you remember your brand? + where you purchase or stock's #. Thanks very much for the video.👍👍👍
I got the lug nuts from the same company I got the wheels from: VTO. Always a good idea in my opinion to buy them from the same place. Anyway there's not actually washers or shoulders on mine, it's just a conical style. If you have flat areas on your lug holes then you might need shouldered lug nuts. If in doubt, maybe take them to a wheel/tire shop and get their opinion.
I also went from 14's with old ratty 185 wides on my NB, to the same exact continental as you in 205 on some konig countergrams. The difference is shocking.
Really great video that gives you a full clear view of the mounts and the challenges with the bolts and access - thanks for the effort you took to record it so well. On the LHD passenger side you can also take out the bracket between the oil filter and the alternator. This is just additional support for the intake manifold and can be safely removed. It's also useful to take this out when changing the oil filter as it gives you extra space to get a filter tool in there if it's tight. One more thing - my torque wrench says not to use it to undo things - I don't think using them for leverage is a good idea 😉
Thanks for that! And you are 100% correct about not using a torque wrench to loosen things. I broke this torque wrench in a subsequent video doing just that, and finally bought a good breaker bar (and upgraded to a nicer torque wrench). Lesson learned!
You did a great job with this video. Thank you so much for all the tips and the level detail that you went on to explain. I’m definitely gonna take some of these tips and apply it to my project
What's the cost of professional yellow-zinc-chromate plating? Why not nickel plating? A company I used to work for would always nickel plate all steel parts for corrosion protection. Sometimes, for really critical parts we would send out to have ARMTEC coated.
The cost was in the $400-500 range for my batch of parts. I chose yellow zinc because I like the look and it seemed like the most “OEM”. Nickel is an interesting idea, might be more durable. And probably more shiny if that’s the look you want.
@AndrewDoesCarStuff wow, that's more expensive than I expected! I wasn't implying that the yellow-zinc was bad. I think it's nearly as durable as the nickel, but it has a very distinct look to it. I think we used nickel partly for its subdued appearance on our equipment.
To be honest, your style, video "put together", sense of humour i would watch you mowing the lawn!! Keep making the content. I especially like the camera where you can see the suspension working.
You beta buddy! the 1977 magnesium 2.7ltr Porsche 911 has a light weight engine making it one of the most powerful zip around and highway sportscar of its time.
I used osram night breaker halogens on my v70 since they also have lackluster headlights. They were noticeably brighter than the top tier sylvania halogens.
Miata?? What a poor name! Its an MX5, one of the best driving cars you can find. I have a 997 and love it, fantastic build quality. I'm a Subaru fan really and own a 22b. Great video, lived it..👌
Thank you for your trials. I’m currently trying to bleed a 1974 twin servo Alfa Spider, several low pedal ‘pedal pumping ‘ results I’m going to try the Gunson. I use DOT 5. It’s non corrosive on paint and a fit and forget fluid. After a couple of potentially damaging interludes with brake fluid , it’s a safer option. The twin servo setup was abandoned by Alfa pretty quickly. It’s a nightmare to bleed.
Great video! Thanks. I'm installing Koni STR.T with my stock springs. I noticed you waited until the car was under load to torque the top shock nut. I've been struggling trying to figure out when to decompress the spring after compressing it to remove the OEM shock. I put the new shock in and the top mount and top nut, at which point I just have enough room to get it on the threads. Do I then fully decompress the spring to seat it onto the spring plate and shock mount? I feel like that would add too much pressure to the untorqued shock nut on top. Not sure if that makes sense, but I'm having a hard time figuring that out.
As long as you have all the threads engaged on the top nut, you should be ok to release the spring compressor. If the nut is only partially on the threads, I'd consider that unsafe.
I would not compare this with a Miata - very different cars. The Porsche Boxster is much more a comparison to the Miata than any 911, and you can get early ones now pretty cheap, though they will always be more costly than a Miata. But you have to try that mid-engine chassis. It is an amazing feel. All that said, the 911 is about back roads and revving out the flat 6 engine. That is true even of modern 911s, They make fantastic race cars on road courses because of their traction and high-speed handling capabilities, provided you understand the physics of rear engine cars. The early 80s 915 transmissions are a different animal than the later G50 boxes with hydraulic clutches, which were really the firat modern gearboxes the 911 ever had. Remember before 1989, all 911s were essentially modern refinements of a 1963-vintage platform. Newer 911s are much easier to drive in the city, but you lose the fun of the smaller, quirkier vehicle, and the newer models are both bigger and heavier, even if they are way more powerful. I think you also had a not-so-great example (shaky steering, loose gearahift).
Replaced my broken plastic console with a homemade one made of salvaged wood. Has a rear storage compartment, two cup holder cutouts, and a notched front piece to sit over the e-brake. Blonds have more fun, but us brunettes get it done!
its a cheap knockoff of an older product, my father had one that was all metal and its still working after decades of him having it, i think its blue point brand but the universal adapter it has is metal and works perfectly
I've only tried that with a cheap hand pump and it didn't work well for me. I've also heard that there's a problem with potentially sucking air from around the threads of the bleeder, which could work its way into the caliper, and/or make it look like you still have bubbles indefinitely. But some people do seem to have success with vacuum bleeding, so I can't say for sure.
The bottle at the top acts as a pressure reservoir. So, you don't really need the tyre - you can hook up the tyre inflator to the bottle imho. When i have bled brakes on older cars without abs, I didn't need to pump the brakes by foot all that much. I just pumped it down really hard. On models with ABS its more complicated.
You should: start with the outtakes, end with the outtakes, and in the middle... yup, more outtakes. And then start a custom duo-lingo channel, please. Thank you. You're my favorite car channel.
You might have a better appreciation for the handling if you have someone show you how to drive it. Not at all meant to be disparaging. But you enter and exit corners in a 911 very differently than in a Miata and, from the video, it looked like you were trying to drive it like a Miata. Having that weight in the tail makes a big difference. Having someone show you in a safe environment can be eye opening.
Is it possible that you are trying to get the universal cap too tight? The tighter you pull the rubber straps the more arc you are introducing into the cap.
The 911 was designed and engineered for the track and alps type roads. Not for city. Its a purpose build machine meant for drivers that push the machine to its limit. I bet if you were to take a ride around the ring with an experienced Porsche driver you would shit your pants. Unfortunately these cars have become status symbols driven by posers for the most part.
Ah nice, always wondered if they were any good. Bonus Volvo footage too😊 Maybe you could get spare caps for the other cars and see it works for those regular screw on ones as opposed to the three spline grabber type on the Opel's new one?
Nice to see the Opel again! I really like your videos…they are very true to life and I like how you include the failures, as well. Much more easy to relate to as we’ve all “been there” with “simple and easy” projects on our own cars.
The aluminum Motive adapters are great if you can find one to fit your car. The Motive kit with the hand pump, not so much. I ended up building my own rig using some parts from the Motive kit and some air compressor bits from the hardware store. One thing that really helps is to use less pressure! You really only need 1-2 PSI to move the fluid. Anything more than that is just a risk of creating a fine paint-eating mist in your engine bay. I run a pressure regulator inline to keep pressure dialed down. Added bonus - I can shut the air off right there in the engine bay. I use my air compressor but you could use a tire just the same, since it's essentially an air tank. Another thought: If you put a thick steel bar across the top of that universal adapter, it might keep it from bending and breaking the seal. Anyway, great video! Really clean cars too.
That's interesting, thanks for sharing your experience! I did wonder if I could make the "multi-purpose" cap work by using less pressure, but it was still leaking as the tire got down to almost empty, so I didn't have much hope. I think next time I want to try either the bottle method that others have mentioned, and/or speed bleeders. Might be worth doing a follow-up vid.
Maybe pressure bleeding isn't the answer, but speed bleeders could be quite a cool thing to try for the Cougar or any other cars. Have you seen those? Basically just bleed screws with a one-way check ball inside.
They work really well. Ive had one for about 20years and it still works great. You must set the tyre to 20psi max, no higher. Or you will blow your header tank off.
Motive has an adapter that looks roughly similar to that universal one, but with two ports, for doing cast iron integral reservoir master cylinders like my C10 has. It came with chains similar to your second attempt. It still didn't seal worth a damn, and the only way I got it to work was using C-clamps to hold it on. And even when it works right it still makes a giant mess. The only self-bleeding method I've actually had work as advertised are speed bleeders. The pressure bleeder and the vacuum bleeder just stay on the back of the shelf.
I think I saw that one on their website, and thought it might work on old American cars like my '68 Cougar. Bummed to hear it didn't work for you, maybe pressure bleeding just isn't the answer in general. I have seen the speed bleeders and am intrigued. The only thing that put me off was that the ones I saw were $30 for two bleed screws. But I think there are some less expensive ones out there - let me know! Might have to try them next.
@@AndrewDoesCarStuff I had a motive bleeder too, but the adapter cap literally cracked and broke after a couple of years. I just switched to the bottle and hose method and pump the brakes now... it's so much faster to setup and so easy, kind of amazed at how there's a market at all for all these brake bleeding gadgets after using this basically free method!
hmmm, what I do is put a half full bottle of brake fluid + hose going into bottle below the fluid level, then hook up the hose to the bleeder valve, then go pump the brakes. That way air cannot flow backwards from the hose into the bleeder. This Gunson method just seem more complicated and expensive no?
Sounds pretty good in theory, but how do you know when you're done? And how do you make any progress when every time you lift the pedal, the same fluid is sucked back in?
I bought one of these Gunson kits in the late 90s. I used it once, also on an Opel Manta--albeit a 1988 Exclusive--and failed miserably. It went in the bin after spraying brake fluid all over the place and these days I use an electric oil/fluid extractor to suck the fluid out through the bleed nipple.
Interesting! I've long thought that vacuum bleeding was a flawed method, since you can end up sucking air from around the threads of the bleed screw, so you don't really know when you have all the air out. Glad to hear you found a good method though. Got a link the the device you use?
@@boilerhousegarage I'm mostly seeing manual extractor "syringe" type things. But in any case, it's amazing how many different devices and tools exist for this seemingly simple process.
