This Channel is about how to make an diy electric surfboard/diy electric jetsurf using some 3d printed parts like the jetdrive's, and twin electric brushless motor's to power the jetboard. i strive to build a diy jet board that is some what affordable as a typical electric jet surf can be expensive. Using litrhium batterie's from the rc model world and everything homemade with a fully carbon fibre hull and fins i will show you my process of how i built this twin jetdrive motorized electric surfboard from start to finish. This personal watecraft is a good challenge for those people who enjoy surfboard shaping and electrical combined to create as good as a water jet board as possible.
Hi there not waterproof but I use black mechanics gloves to seal them the waterproof version are really expensive, I will change them for plastic ones for less weight but you can find them on amerzon no problem I believe there 28 mm or so.
1st 3d printer I’ve had still figuring it out had trouble with PETG filament just couldn’t get a single print with it temps was 230c n bed think was 70c
Will this work for the ender 3 v3 SE is there much difference cuz I’ve noticed it has trouble with spool filament looks tight still prints ok but suppose it’ll be better with some upgrade what do u think of that you done is ir worth doing or ???? Thanks very much m8 ….. PS. I subscribed to your channel awesome info on there I’m a newbie
buenas amigo estoy pensando en hacerme uno he visto todos sus videos pero no e visto los stl para hacer los jet o los tiene a la venta? gracias un saludo
Hi there great to hear you are going to make a board I went to thingyverse and for the impellers used a guys design by the name of SavoirDJ. And for the drive unit's a guy called toto45. You will have to resize to your needs hope this helps. Good luck
I’m sure u have but I’ve u looked at Vesc’s ether trampa or otherwise. Much better for smooth control And adjustable throttle curves. Liked and followed.
Hi yeah I looked at vesc,s but they were big for my application have solved the throttle issue now so seems ok more riding needed and am updating the drives at the moment so the video is on its way. Thanks for the follow.
Well done, you never really know what it's like till you get on in it. I suspect it will be quite a bit better when you get the 12s going but looking really good so far.
Looks good man! The SSS inrunners are a high power motor. Plenty of performance available. You probably already have the timing around 0-6 degrees, otherwise maybe it’s just the esc’s that can’t handle 12S. Keep up the good work!
Hallelujah you finally rode it think people were giving up only the die hard jetsurf enthusiast had the faith Congrats. What does the board weight with batteries?
Hey there. It's a trial nozzle I will be changing everything later, I had a hard time learning the cad program so will get better in the future. Cheers
Cheers I was having issues with electric stuttering but I think I have solved it now. With 5000mah batteries it's not going to be a long run time but for testing I guess about 3-4 mins but will make battery eventually. When I know the speed etc it will be in the next video.
Whats the point of these? I get it if you have cureent in rush, it takes some draw of the batteries for a very short moment. But if you have lipo at 12S, isnt that like 45 amps per cell? Thus 500 ish apms peak. Cant you adjust the voltage to the escs from the remot reciever so the escs are stopping at say peak 145A?
I had the same thought but as far as I can tell there is no way to limit the amp draw it's more to do with the motor kv it's important to check the max amp of the motor some can go higher than mine but I can also play with different props to bring the amps down if needed.
Usually you can modify the voltage, on the controller. Don't you see any settings on the Flipsky remote to reduce the top throttle voltage or similar going back to the ESC?
How did you figure 8 awg is good for continuous? The calculations I have made is 2 Awg for 100A continuous. Are you using a VESC? If so you should be able to easily trim the top and to the controller (Flipsky right?). At 48v and 160 amp you are upward 7.5kw and that should be plenty since that like running a 10hp motor.
Yeah the 8awg wire is for the phase motor wires it's fine for the battery wires because they are short but I might need to go to maybe 6awg eventually for the phase but for now I am trying to get the amps even lower so will keep an eye on the temps obviously.
@@thewaysider7774 hope you are not planning on increasing the voltage from 12s. There's a reason some areas like the US has standards on keeping voltage in marine environments below 50v. It gets real easy to kill oneself.
Seems a bit inefficient at such low voltage to me. Aren't you running huge amps through those cables when it hits the ESC? I guess it's alleviated by it running at only around 1kw after it gets up on foil...?
@@thewaysider7774 if it's a VESC it should be damn easy to set params correctly. Or are you controlling max speed by reducing input voltage from receiver to the ESC?
@@NavalTechTinkerer yeah i have got 3 speed modes on the controller but havent played with that yet will see if the amps go down in a different mode. The esc are just set to 12s not much i can change except the timing which is on 0 degree's.
Good advice from @Koolzr01. Great to see the project moving along. You really need to get in the water with it to see how it feels. As long as the cooling is working it should be OK. Strongly recommend capacitor bank, will save your ESCs.
1. Привет. Классная доска получается, дизайн и подход супер. Смотреть на нее очень приятно. Но по технике я присоединюсь к остальным комментариям. 2. Снижать напряжение ниже 12s не имеет смысла, прийдется задирать ток, чтобы получить достаточную мощность в 10+ кВт . А при увеличении тока в два раза нагрев увеличится в 4. Увеличение напряжения только увеличивает шансы попасть под удар тока, это единственный минус высокого напряжения)) И да, если у вас на этом импеллерре на 24 в ток был 100А, то на 48в ток будет под 300, если батареи смогут его отдать. Я бы сразу брал другие моторы с меньшим kv, вместо 550 хотяб 230kv. И желательно с большим диаметром и outraner. Это уменьшит частоту вращения крыльчатки и уменьшит ток. Ну а дальше бы уже экспериментировал с размером и шагом крыльчатки и проч. 3. Нужно стремится к уменьшению потребления тока. Потому что этих батарей вам хватит на пару минут. А это очень мало. 4. Если не хотите менять двигатель, то берите крыльчатки у YOUNGSTERS JETS. Я не понимаю как он на этих двигателях и своих крыльчатках едет 60км/ч)) наверное у него сильно лёгкая доска и он сам.
Hi thanks for the ideas. For now I will do whatever is best after more testing, maybe higher amp motors but lower kv I have alot more I can try with my jetdrives.as when I printed them I didn't really know what size I should make youngster is on a 60mm impeller so I will try some stuff out cheers.
Hey brother love the update! I have some answers for your questions to help get this going along. 1) keep it at 12s to 16s. Dont go down in voltage from where youre at now. 2) Your amps are higher because your motor is now spinning significantly faster for the same throttle % input with higher voltage. Still need to reduce that impeller pitch so at max throttle its pulling 150 amps. 3) motors cut off because of voltage sag on the batteries. Your esc has a cut off limit set at some level. Under high load the battery voltage sagged under that limit and tripped the cut off. You can change this somewhere when you plug it in to the computer or have more batteries in parallel to provide the current needed. 4) if your motor cooling is good, dont worry about the 150 amp rating (within reason). Amps themselves wont hurt it, the heat generated over the magnet and copper insulation limit will. If theres anything else you can think of i would be happy to answer if i can. Its such a fun project but can quickly become overwhelmingly frustrating trying to figure it out yourself.
Hi I hear you on the prop pitch it's just the file I modified was from thingyverse and couldn't change everything I wanted. What if I came down In size from a 64mm to a 60mm for example ? Or smaller if needed. And also I have a 45 mm jet nozzle opening would making that bigger help? Thanks for all the advise will look into the voltage cut thing also.
@@thewaysider7774 you can't reduce the diameter of the impeller, gaps between the edge of the impeller and jet wall will crater the efficiency and thrust. A quick workaround for you might be to take that file and put it back in your slicer then scale only the Z dimension smaller. Will basically be trial and error for how much but should work. I wouldn't recommend enlarging the exit nozzle until you work on the impeller. You will significantly reduce the exit velocity of the jet.
@@Koolzr01 yeah cheers i also made a wear ring as i downsized the impeller once already, i made a video on it. I can make the ring smaller also to fit the new impeller but i will design a new impeller eventually now i've made it easier to come off the shaft. From my research the nozzel opening has a similer effect to pitch of prop but there is a balance to be had of course. My idea is to make the jetdrives new out of p.e.t. cf plastic once i know the correct size ecetera. then i can share the files. Thanks again for your help am taking on board all the advise.
Anything marine shouldn't be over 50v. When you go over that you are seriously making it easier to die from being electrocuted. I built a 20S pack and I'm pulling that down to two 10S now and then upward 12S later. But no hobby is worth potentially dying from.
I made sure I watched all the videos, but I couldn't find a detailed enough description of the thruster. (Maybe I missed something?) Can you please share what 3d model you used for the thruster? Also what do you think after the first tests, is this the right diameter of thruster for your engines?
Hi I found the thrusters on thingyverse but they don't seem to be on there anymore.i re-dresigned the nozzel's to change the size a little and the prop's you can still find on thingyverse but there are other jet drives worth looking at on the site, you will just have to upscale in a slicer before printing. For me I am running around a 64mm prop at the moment but can change later if need be. For the moment I am happy with the new esc's but not sure untill I do more testing about the power it seems ok but will try 44 volts soon.
Thanks for the update, I’ve been looking forward to more news on you project. I know how time consuming and expensive these boards are. As others have said you will need at least 8kw, so simple maths 22.2v 360A. I’m sure you will end up at 12s or even 14s to keep the current reasonable. I don’t know if you have seen Mark at YOUNGSTERS JETS has just done a new board with his own jets. The performance he gets is outstanding, if you look through some of his videos there are a lot of technical clues. Your board is still the best looking DIY board out there, can’t wait for the sea/river trails.
Hey there now it seems to work well the next test or ride should be fairly quick to do. I have seen the channel you are on about and he is good, it gave me the idea in the first place. He ran his on 6s in the beginning so am going to try that first that way i can really feel the difference going to 12s all be it i will lose run time. Thanks for checking in .
Love the build. Started mine a couple years ago, almost done with the 3rd and final version. Couple tips from my experience so you don't have to repeat my mistakes. Get a much lower pitch impeller, when you go 12s those motors are going to be pulling near 300 amps based on the testing in this video. Amp draw is not linear with rpm increase in this situation. EVERYTHING gets hot in our sealed hatches, add some of those mini water cooling blocks for computers to anything and everything you possibly can. Look up RC capacitor packs and add one to each ESC as close to the ESC as possible on the battery input side. Very cheap to do and will save you from blowing them with voltage spikes. You will need minimum 8kw for any fun. Preferably 9.5+. Calculate your needed amp draw at full throttle with the voltage youre using and 3d print different pitch impellers until you hit that spot. Can't wait to see this thing ripping!
@@thewaysider7774 most professional boards advertise at 10kw plus. I tried on my second board with battery half charged and did not get on plane (approx 7.5kw). Next run where fully charged I did get on plane (approx 9.2 kw)
@@Koolzr01 OK cool i will try it all, next up i want to try a traction test just waiting for the scale to arrive and i did a calculation each motor at 150amp is giving 3.3kw at 22v so 6.6kw in total. 150 amp is the rating for the motor so i will have to go to 44v i think.
@@Koolzr01 hey i will be a little more consevative with the amps because the motor's max out at 150 so around 149.9 should be great. only joking it hopfully will be fast we will see.
Are those cable really enough to run 100A continuously? Also why not do 10S to reduce the Amps on those cables? How are those cells holding up if you are running that much current out of them?
Hey there. 100amp is nothing the cables should be more than enough , also as I up the voltage the amps should go down but I will keep an eye on everything. The other reason I am going to run 12s is I can put 2 of my 6s in series but will lose running time. Thanks for the comments we will see together how this thing turn's out.
Cura is much faster . And my se wash faster then k.e. I used the settings of the k.e. It was slower . K.e. also heats up the nozzle and build plate first. Then says 8. Procent done. Then lift the when its starts printing. Cura is the way to go.
Hi there I used cura before I chose creality print because the printer profile was in there. Will try cura again because it is a more pro slicer I feel. Is there a profile for the ke yet? Let me know and will give it a shot. Thanks for the comments.
That looks awesome. How come the low voltage? I mean from what I can see, you aren't getting more than over a kw given that voltage. How about pumping it up with a high power 12s battery pack (keeping charge below 50v for safety) but then you would get 50v x 45 amps and thats 2.25 kw. That would pump you much better forward. Im currently posting my 6kwh battery build and my 3D printed carbon fiber 20 kw outboard - would love to get your feedback. I really like how you made those pumps, they look damn amazing!
Hey dude I just bought two new esc's 300amp 14s so now I can go 12s will try 6s but I have the option. Next video I will show you what I've been up too and thanks for the info am glad to help if you have any questions in the future. It's a learning curve but a fun one 👍
@@thewaysider7774 indeed it is fun :) two 300A escs... Jesus. That would allow for 30kw at 50v. Does your batteries, motors, and cables hold up to that? Wouldn't 100A +120A peak be enough?
@@NavalTechTinkerer As far as i understand the more the better when it comes to amps but keeping the weight down as much as possible.i should be getting no more than 150-180amps or so per side, the other thing is that the 200amp-250 esc's i have looked at don't let me use 12s so i went with the one's the guy had that was also not far from where i live, they are the ztw g2 300amp 14s so room to grow if needed i just want to get rid of that stutter at full throttle. and have upgraded all connections to the Qs10 connector's much bigger than the xt 90. i will show it all in the next video.
@@NavalTechTinkerer not really i just know more about esc's from modeling and the time it takes to get the things. the shop had the g2 so i went for those i guess it can only improve things over the generic cheap one's i was using. i am testing soon in the river so fingers crossed.
Doing my own with similar stuff, except the longer motors, I'd say you'll need at least 35v, The motor spins 45k at 90v, så 45v gives you apporx 22.5k 22v will only give you 11k rpm with no load. 64-68mm prop will need high rpm, approx 14-18 :) So do as i do, put them im series so you get approx 10mah 44,4v, and you wont have issues.. except if the ESC can handle that tho
It will fit the printer, but it might not work depending on the spool you have. The hole on Creality and Polymaker cardboard spools are small and make it very fiddly to mount them with this type of solution.
56104-550kv motor is designs for high voltage using, looking in the motor specs. Try to builds high voltages battery pack and replace the ESCs to get maximum power of these motors (at least 60V system). My minimum suggestions : 10kW battery power to using 2 jets system 14s*4.2v * 170A = 9.996w (14s ~ 58.8 volts, 40Ah to 50Ah Li-ion or Li-po high discharge battery ) 60V 150A ESC * 2 Also it's really a nice board design & built!
Great video again, board looks amazing, thanks for sharing. The stop/start at higher revs could be just succing air into the drives and/or cavitaion. To get up and planing I think you will need a minimum of 5kw but preferably 10kw. Higher voltage is more dangerous but 50v should be fine and reduces the current and heat.
Cool cheers. If it is cavitation how would I solve it ? I re made the impellers to try and eliminate any issues with that but when I change some settings in the esc's it can get slightly better but still there all the same. Well either way I need bigger esc,s to up the voltage. Thanks for the comment.
Amazing job and amazing board , design and solution all the way 😊 Nice video and realy nice work! But , the engine it totaly wrong in my opinion. They or esc will burn 🔥 Must uppgrade and your amazing board will be stunning 👍 Also save money to use low cost ”china” engine/ esc in long term . Otherwise, stunning board 👏👏
Your board construction is amazing, quality and finish is probably the best I have seen. However I think the drive unit needs a little work. You are right about the ESCs they are easy to burn out and expensive. The absolute best are mgm-controllers but are very expensive. I have used Flier ESCs which have been OK but still burnout, I think ZTW are probably similar so watch the cooling. I now have Trampaboards vesc ESC, very controllable, well made and they have real people who answer the phone and will repair. These boards use a lot of power and you will soon find that you need to make a Lithium-Ion battery pack. Samsung 40T 21700 is a good cell. For the efficiency of these Jets the guide fins on the nozzle are as important as the impeller, yours look as though they are straight. As the water comes out of the impellor it is spinning and these fins need to straighten the flow so they need to be curved to do this. Best jets if you can afford them mhz-watercraft. Please do not take this as any criticism, I would love to have the skill to make such a great board. Such a premium board deserves great drive unit. Really looking forward to seeing it on the water.
I totally agree and thanks for your input, the Venturi fins do have a slight offset to them but I might have to make them more angled in the future. The cells you mentioned I have looked at and will go for making a battery one day but was going on what I saw other RU-vidrs doing as a starting point. Hey it's all part of the fun in the end. The upcoming video highlights the esc problem even more so will have to change them whatever happens. Much appreciated.👍
@@thewaysider7774 I know how much time and money it takes to get these projects working so well done and looking forward to seeing any more videos. Just one other idea, I had the same issue with fixing the impellor onto the shaft and got in touch with Loctite. They recommended LOCTITE 480 as it doesn’t degrade plastics and is used to attach gears to shafts. It is quite expensive but you use very little and is incredibly strong without pinning, worked for me anyway.
Great Video, thanks, I am currently using a fully upgraded anet a8 from 2017 also, but am so tired of bed leveling and always messing with it. I get pretty respectable prints most of the time printing on glass but am always on edge while printing, wondering if the print will come loose or not. Feel it's time to move up so I'm really considering the KE as a suitable upgraded without breaking the bank. thanks again for the review!
Hi yeah I have the same anet a8 it was good to start the printing journey but I really can't look back now after having the ender ke or the other printers in the range are also good but whatever you go for it is a step up from the old anet.
@@thewaysider7774 Roger that I learned a lot about 3D printing with the a net it's pretty well tricked out but it's not a new printer I'm excited about getting the KE I've been researching all of them and I don't think for $275 you can beat that ender KE, thanks for the reply best of luck to you!
Очень интересно смотреть. Выглядит как з завода. Интересно какой уже вес у доски. У меня процесс изготовления доски с бензиновым двигателем остановился на этапе формирования корпуса доски. Лайк для поддержки канала!
When I worked at a surfboard factory we filled holes on epoxy boards with lightweight spackle. At that is what it is labeled in the store here in the states. The stuff you fill a nail hole with when repairing painted drywall. There are other solutions, but that factory is well known and that was the least expensive solution. It sands like the foam around it so works pretty well. We would fill the holes of a board that has been completely shaped and ready for glassing.
Cheers man I have heard of spackle but never used it I decided to cover the board in the end with some polyurethane sheet which gave me a little more thickness which I needed. I think it's video 2 or 3 but thanks so much for your comment much appreciated.
I learned how to 3D print and design specifically for my surfboard project. It sucks but when you get the printer tuned and the settings right, it's all worth it. I use and highly recommend Shapr3D on my iPad.
