I can wire one of those for use with my wood furnace I just picked up be happy you people can rely on natural gas or propane wood would kill most of you especially when you got a look around a 30-lb chainsaw and wield that sucker all day long because it's the bigger the round the more wood you get the more wood you get the less you have to cut but not less than you have to split or stack cuz it's the same amount cuz you get more wood from the bigger rounds but the moral of this is now I don't have to use an open face fireplace with blower to try and heat a house I can now use my wood furnace and duct it through my house country boy will survive very intuitive video much appreciated it
This was helpful - almost ordered a primary control when didn't need it. Key point is after starting burner, immediately jumpering the CAD male leads at the control end to prove burner will continue to run. Best regards and great advice!!!
Thanks for the video. I'm reading about stack temp and combustion efficiency in my textbook in class. This video was helpful for me to better understand what I was reading!
Does the 24 V side of this switch get its power from the W terminal when the heat comes on? I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Someone has wired mine to get 24V from the Y terminal when the AC is on which makes no sense at all. Now 24V is not getting through this fan limit switch and through the thermal switch on the blower and finally making its way all the way back to terminal 1 of the Honywell Intermittent Igniter which turns the gas valve on for full burning operation. The igniter is a 24V system so if your fan limit switch happens to be a system where 110V AC is running through both sides of the fan limit switch, the limit side has to step down to 24V at some point with the 110 V / 24v AC transformer to shut the gas off if things get too hot.
I don't know much about motors but would appreciate your advice... I would like to get a 1/4 hp motor for continuous use. I would be running this motor all day, everyday for long time. I'm making a rock tumbler & using it to tumble rocks. This will be running for weeks at a time 24 hour a day. I don't know if I need a single phase motor. Or if there are motors with built in fans within the motor to keep it cool? I heard Dayton or Marathon motors are good. Any advice Or input on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks 😎
I would think you would want something with lower rpm’s I don’t know how fast rocks are supposed to be tumbled. A 220 volt motor would be more energy efficient and hold up longer than a 120 volt motor. Maybe even CSIR ( capacitor start induction run ) this would have more starting torque since I assume it would be kind of a heavy load.
@frederickkosier2508 Thanks for responding. I'll consider your advice. Rocks are heavy! Other people on RU-vid are running a split phase 1/4 hp motor 1725 rpms, with 2 or 3 row teers, 36 inches long. Barrels are rolling on 5/8" to 3/4" bars with pulleys & pillow block bearings. I heard split phase motors are good for this, especially running in your home... more efficient. What is your advice on this type of motor?
Question. I have a Beckett AFG. It has a .065 70B nozzle. The pump was factory set at 156. I need to drop the pressure down to a hundred so I can lower the BTU. Its 83000 and is to much. I only need 45k btu. Using a .50 nozzle will get me to 53k. The furnace has never ran long enough to really warm and keep it that way. Short cycles. I have the low fire baffle that came with it. Does that sound right?. .50 nozzle and lower pressure to 100. I have to figure out if I need a 80a or 70b. The head is Fo and the burner am AFG
70b is the spray angle. If your furnace came with a 70b, DO NOT use another angle. You can however drop down to a .5 if you want but air ratio will need adjustment
I knew air would need to be adjusted. Along with pump pressure. I have to have someone come out because I don't have the equipment to adjust. I've adjusted by eye looking in the barometric damper with a flashlight and smoke test, but I need the gear to do it right. I really need to switch to propane. Oil is just too expensive, and I can get a 96 percent efficient propane that's so much smaller. 2 stage
How do you actually check the output? My boiler isnt always coming on. Usually if I hit reset it fires up but sometimes it hums. If I hit the transformer it fires up. Weird. How do you check if its going bad?
I am seeing very low voltages (23v) where there should be 124 volts (above blue wire) . I see 124 on orange. The switch appears to work. Does that mean my limit switch is bad or is it something else. I have an older 1978 era furnace/ac. It was working fine earlier in the week, now it's doing this. I am having to run it on fan to heat the house as the Auto setting does not work.Thanks for any help. I'm pulling my hair out.
You would read 0 volts or close to it on the orange wires above due to it being a switch. You would read 120 volts on blue wires until the furnace heats up enough and the switch closes then you would read 0 volts across blue wires and the fan would come on. Sounds like the switch isn’t closing to bring fan on
@@frederickkosier2508 Thank you for your replay. The way my Honeywell limit is wired is that there is no wire where the lower left blue wire is, so I would think it is directly connected to the lower right orange via a copper strip (I think ?) so why it would read 30-60 volts on that lower left blue is a mystery. ? or the connection between the lower blue left and lower right orange wires is bad. I did play around with it today measuring voltages and I'm not sure what I might have done, but I started to get 120 V on the lower blue left and the thermostat auto function started to work. I would prefer not to have to buy another Honeywell switch as they are around $200. Have you ever seen this kind of behavior with voltages before ? Just a sidenote, the upper left blue only gets 120v when the limit switch triggers (well, when it's working properly anyway) which I believe is correct.
I'm trying to fix my boiler and think the cad cell may be the issue. If I hit reset the boiler fires and runs fine. After it shuts down it won't come back on unless I hit reset again. I tried checking cad cell like this but I get nothing. With the transformer closed and the cad cell wires disconnected I get no reading at all. With the transformer open I'm getting like 6.9-7 k I believe. Anyone know what this means?
Would have been much neater if you swapped the relay coil and contact positions.... Look at it again... Much neater swapped... Easier to study, even as simple as it is.
For sure a nice and clear instruction video! My question is what type of oil do you use as I can't find any reference on the internet to what oil is suitable for this?
If you have a little refrigerant oil handy that’s probably the best. Otherwise you can use god old zoom spout. It is a very minimal amount so it will not affect the system.
Hi, I am using the same swaging tool as you've got there, and I'm struggling to do the 1/4" tubing. My 3/8" comes out beautiful like in your video here, but I can't seem to get the 1/4" to stick out of the block far enough for it to swage nicely, even with the tool backed all the way up. My swages end up way too shallow to work properly, and it seems to crush the tubing against the block. Any tips?
Hello I have noticed the same thing on 1/4”. It pushes the pipe down while flaring and scores or crushes the pipe. Make sure the piece of pipe is as straight as possible in the block and that the end is reamed well. Make sure the flaring block is tight around the pipe as well. And as always don’t forget to put your nut on the pipe first 😀.
if the incoming low voltage to the contactor was somehow less than 24v….say 20v….could the contactor work. Or is 24v the absolute threshold amount to it functioning?
I have read that it should pull in with as little as 16 volts. If you are only getting 20 volts though there is another problem. Likely the transformer not putting out enough voltage
Good video. Basic settings adjustment by why do you want to play with the pressure?. Recommended 100psi? Is there math behind that? I'm running 135 on a .75 or .70 nozzle with 140k iBTU input box on a Beckett AFG. My flue measurements are spot on with max efficiency.
What if it doesn't and gets so bad that your coughing up a lung in your bed room? What if the the valve has cold air from outside blowing back through it? Kevin Adams the guy who installed it denies that is possible but I can prove he's wrong and he refuses to fix it instead asking me how to fix it.
You may want to consider doing wiring examples on a working unit. As a student, those wiring trainers are confusing after looking at actual production units.
Incorrect. Most oil burner pressures for boilers are currently set at 120 psi not 100psi and never less. Always check the manufacturers recommendations
Omg you saved me I have had two different companies look at my furnace and one guy made it back fire !! Now I know the issue and I'm done paying guy to play a guessing game!
Your body does ad resistance but the difference between a cad cell seeing light or dark is in the thousands or tens of thousands. The resistance of the body has minimal affect
@@frederickkosier2508 You stated the high 10k resistance was due to the CAD " seeing darkness". That's incorrect. It's just the opposite. Light increases resistance. The brighter the light the higher the resistance. The dimmer the light the lower the resistance until total darkness causes the CAD to "open" and resistance goes to infinite. Since your burner was not fired up, the resistance reading through the CAD should have been VERY LOW. Probably under 50 ohms if some faint room light got to it. Otherwise in darkness it should show "open". You got a reading of 10k. So the only place such an egregiously false reading could have come from was from a defective CAD or by you introducing your body's resistance into the measurement by holding onto the wire leads of the CAD. 10k body resistance is not "negligible" when you are dealing with a CAD that responds in resistance variations ranging from "thousands or tens of thousands". Check your body resistance by grabbing one of the meter leads in each hand. You will read around 10k. Unless your hands are very dry. Then properly check the resistance reading of the CAD without your hands not touching anything but the insulated part of the meter leads. You will read very low to infinite resistance depending on whether the CAD is in complete darkness or not. If you checked an open 10k resistor the way you checked the CAD, the meter would read 10k and you would say the resistor is good and chase your tail looking elsewhere for the problem when the resistor was the problem all along.
@@TheNYgolfer The cad cell is made from a cadmium sulfide coated ceramic disk with a conductive grid over its surface. Electrodes are attached to this surface, and the cell is sealed in glass to protect it. The cad cell in darkness has a very high resistance to the flow of electrical current. Yet, in the presence of visible light, it has a very low resistance.
By front seating the valve on the receiver you pump the system down or store all the refrigerant in the receiver. On a refrigeration system if I pump it down I can change the drier, site glass, txv, and even the evaporator. You never want to front seat the high side valve or you will wreck the compressor.
ty man your channel saved me cash...my furnace blew soot through whole oil system covering the light censer with black film from soot. wiped it off and it stayed on it was shutting down after a min ..but i m covid broke and couldnt pay a guy to come ....thanks again friend
Where can i buy a draft tester, something like yours, also i do adjust my oil furnace by just looking at the fire and inside pipes, and damper unit, what/how do you think doing it without the tester?
So how do you know if the cad cell is working properly? What is the normal reading when it’s running because you never had a flame or explain what the normal reading should be. At what point is it good or bad?
@@frederickkosier2508 Are you sure about that 300 ohms or less? That seems a little low. And at what reading do I change it out? What if I get 1000 ohms
