I can wire one of those for use with my wood furnace I just picked up be happy you people can rely on natural gas or propane wood would kill most of you especially when you got a look around a 30-lb chainsaw and wield that sucker all day long because it's the bigger the round the more wood you get the more wood you get the less you have to cut but not less than you have to split or stack cuz it's the same amount cuz you get more wood from the bigger rounds but the moral of this is now I don't have to use an open face fireplace with blower to try and heat a house I can now use my wood furnace and duct it through my house country boy will survive very intuitive video much appreciated it
Does the 24 V side of this switch get its power from the W terminal when the heat comes on? I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Someone has wired mine to get 24V from the Y terminal when the AC is on which makes no sense at all. Now 24V is not getting through this fan limit switch and through the thermal switch on the blower and finally making its way all the way back to terminal 1 of the Honywell Intermittent Igniter which turns the gas valve on for full burning operation. The igniter is a 24V system so if your fan limit switch happens to be a system where 110V AC is running through both sides of the fan limit switch, the limit side has to step down to 24V at some point with the 110 V / 24v AC transformer to shut the gas off if things get too hot.
I am seeing very low voltages (23v) where there should be 124 volts (above blue wire) . I see 124 on orange. The switch appears to work. Does that mean my limit switch is bad or is it something else. I have an older 1978 era furnace/ac. It was working fine earlier in the week, now it's doing this. I am having to run it on fan to heat the house as the Auto setting does not work.Thanks for any help. I'm pulling my hair out.
You would read 0 volts or close to it on the orange wires above due to it being a switch. You would read 120 volts on blue wires until the furnace heats up enough and the switch closes then you would read 0 volts across blue wires and the fan would come on. Sounds like the switch isn’t closing to bring fan on
@@frederickkosier2508 Thank you for your replay. The way my Honeywell limit is wired is that there is no wire where the lower left blue wire is, so I would think it is directly connected to the lower right orange via a copper strip (I think ?) so why it would read 30-60 volts on that lower left blue is a mystery. ? or the connection between the lower blue left and lower right orange wires is bad. I did play around with it today measuring voltages and I'm not sure what I might have done, but I started to get 120 V on the lower blue left and the thermostat auto function started to work. I would prefer not to have to buy another Honeywell switch as they are around $200. Have you ever seen this kind of behavior with voltages before ? Just a sidenote, the upper left blue only gets 120v when the limit switch triggers (well, when it's working properly anyway) which I believe is correct.
