Usually between 60,000 miles and 100,000 miles...depends on multiple factors like type of driving, road conditions, weather etc..In most countries shocks are tested at the time of annual inspection/registration...signs of bad shoks might be bad car handling, bouncing, grinding...also look for oil leaks or actual spring breakage...
Just did this repair today, removed the sway bar completely (very easy) and then removed the 2 bolts that hold the steering rack. move the steering rack out of the way without removing it and you have all the room in the world to work on the water pump. Didn't take a single bolt off from the top. The only challenge was to remove/install the top bolt from the water pump, but with the right extension and few minutes of maneuvering it's no big deal. The water pump comes out very easy through the bottom with plenty of room to spare.
I’m having a serious problem with my 2015 f10 n55. I’ve replaced the thermostat and have taken it to bmw just to figure out nothing and spend 600 bucks for no reason. It’s overheating and I have no heat but when I get under the car, I can’t find any leaks whatsoever coming from the thermostat, water pump, reservoir, and all the hoses. The day after taking to bmw and getting a pressure test, which passed, the coolant was all on the ground near the water pump. They said it was likely the water pump but I’m just trying to make sure before spending hundreds on the pump
Check out the video at about 8:55 onwards...you can test and see if your pump is working...turn the ignition on, (don't start the car) put your fan on low and temperature on high; then press the gas pedal and hold it down for 10-15 seconds...if the pump is good it will turn on and start circulation of the coolant...(you can even open the cap of the coolant expension tank to physically see if coolant is moving)...if nothing happens, chances are your water pump needs replacement...
@@hurfdurfy8167 it was the water pump got one on Amazon for 100. Did the job in 3 hours when bmw wanted 900 for the part and another 900 for 5 hours of labor? Tf they doing making the parts to?🤡 all jokes aside yea the fan was kicking on with no codes and bmw didn’t even know what the fuck they were talking about to that should tell you something. Weirdest shit ever tho with no visible leaks, pressure leaks, codes, or anything that would make you assume it was the waterpump.
My 2014 320xi had the same problem. My source of water was the sunroof drains. Even though I never use it the drains were clogged with dirt. Looking forward to another 10yrs.
@@ken6474 Just did this repair today, removed the sway bar completely (very easy) and then removed the 2 bolts that hold the steering rack. move the steering rack out of the way without removing it and you have all the room in the world to work on the water pump. Didn't take a single bolt off from the top. The only challenge was to remove/install the top bolt from the water pump, but with the right extension and few minutes of maneuvering it's no big deal. The water pump comes out very easy through the bottom with plenty of room to spare.
Excellent video! can I ask what brand is your new pump? (as it doesn't look like OEM) and wonder how well is it holding up as I don't want to pay $400 for OEM.
@@autorepairs7910 I don’t see any coolant leaking and I also noticed that my heat doesn’t work. So I’m assuming that it isn’t flowing bc of the thermostat
It could be an issue with you heater core; you might not be getting coolant to it...try running the pump circulation mode (as noted in the video) see if the pump turns on to circulate the coolant...if it turns on, let it circulate the coolant and check the coolant level afterwards...(if it doesn't, chances are is the pump) It could be your thermostat or other parts related around the whole heating/cooling system....
@@autorepairs7910 my pump works…. But it looks like my coolant is coming out foamy… I’m assuming there’s air in the system… *update* car seems to be normal after purge. Temps seem to operate steady around 215-220 at the highest… But will still take to shop to get further diagnosing… Thank you for the suggestions my guy!!! 🙏🏽
that big collar bolt (that goes through the hub into the CV axle) is a torque to yield bolt FWIW and should be replaced when you do this job. BMW uses a ton of TTY bolts all over the place and they're all single use.
I didn't...basically just "reset" the pump, let it run its cycle and add coolant to the correct level...you can double cycle it to ensure all the air is out...
GREAT video and my upcoming work will be much easier now, especially in regard to sourcing the Duralast Triple Square Bit Socket Set (note that it's not available currently on Amazon but this is an Autozone tool set and it's in stock at my local Autozone - Part # 60-900). One thing though: At about 3:15 you mention that you used an 11/16" size socket to remove the caliper bolts. I'm glad it worked out, but the proper size is 17 mm. 11/16" works out to about 17.4 mm. There is risk of rounding out the bolts when using that slightly oversized 11/16" socket.
You shouldn't have to remove brake fluid unless you also are replacing the brake pads and need to back the caliper pistons back in all the way to make the new thicker pads fit.
Hello! Just wondering how did the wheel bearing hubs work for you? Specifically how did the car ride and sound better? And did you enjoy your drive more or less?
Super helpful video, thank you. One question though, are you able to install the new assembly without the special press from BMW? I've seen other videos where it appears that the fitment is very snug. Seems like maybe you could put a block of wood on the front side and tap it with the rubber mallet, but wondering if you have tips. Thanks again!
This is the "whole wheel bearing assembly replacement" and its mounted by 4 bolts...if you want to save more money and just change the bearings, then I assume you will need the special press to push out the bearings for its replacement...
@@autorepairs7910 Thanks for clarifying. Likely my mistake, I thought that I'd still have to press the axle through the center. Wasn't sure if that required something special. Thanks again.
The holes will not align any other way, I am not sure that you you can even put it upside down...I've put over 8,000 miles since I changed it, no issues...
Thank you so much. I've been looking all over to find that specific bit socket called Triple square bit socket which fits my 2013 BMW 750i. Thanks to you now I know what to buy and how to replace the wheel bearing. Thank you.
nice! I did the same. One trick is to FIRST open the oil-filter-cap so the oil can flow MUCH easier due to the income of air inside the oil tubing! nonetheless, thank you :)
great video!! I have exactly the same car, and I reckon, that videos about this type of car are hard to come by. So I really appreciate your effort. ...So I managed to fuck up the front-passanger-side rotor-holding screw due the presence of sticky and disgusting rust. I had to drill a whole through the screw, and smashing a T-25 inside it to finally get it out (partially!) so now I am left with just remaining outer parts of the screw, which is inside the hub bearing. I have to try to rework the threads with a M8 thread-mill. It sucks :( I just wanna give you some infos, in case you will be faced with future repair on the shitty water pump... It is doable, in a matter of fact, it is easy, but fiddly. On my 2012 535i xdrive with adaptive drive and dynamic drive there is one trick!... you have to pull the Waterpump from the TOP. Prior to that the fan-shroud has to come out (and preferably the radiator as well. but I managed to let it on his place. then I changed the valve cover gasket... front and rear brakes (rotors and pads) Cabin air filter, cleaning the intake valves and many other things. I'm experiencing a knocking sound when vigorously shaking my steering wheel while the car is NOT running. (ignition off)! So my next project will be trying to remove the steering rack, but I reckon it will be nearly impossible to do that, 'cause there are so many struts and bars due to xDrive and Dynamic drive (active rollbar-stabilsation). Do you have any ideas on how to fix this? well, I assume its the left inner tie rod. I will check tomorrow. I will let you know if you are interested. It would be nice to have you as a friend whom I can share and also learn more about repairing our cars. thank you :)
