that big collar bolt (that goes through the hub into the CV axle) is a torque to yield bolt FWIW and should be replaced when you do this job. BMW uses a ton of TTY bolts all over the place and they're all single use.
Thank you so much. I've been looking all over to find that specific bit socket called Triple square bit socket which fits my 2013 BMW 750i. Thanks to you now I know what to buy and how to replace the wheel bearing. Thank you.
GREAT video and my upcoming work will be much easier now, especially in regard to sourcing the Duralast Triple Square Bit Socket Set (note that it's not available currently on Amazon but this is an Autozone tool set and it's in stock at my local Autozone - Part # 60-900). One thing though: At about 3:15 you mention that you used an 11/16" size socket to remove the caliper bolts. I'm glad it worked out, but the proper size is 17 mm. 11/16" works out to about 17.4 mm. There is risk of rounding out the bolts when using that slightly oversized 11/16" socket.
great video!! I have exactly the same car, and I reckon, that videos about this type of car are hard to come by. So I really appreciate your effort. ...So I managed to fuck up the front-passanger-side rotor-holding screw due the presence of sticky and disgusting rust. I had to drill a whole through the screw, and smashing a T-25 inside it to finally get it out (partially!) so now I am left with just remaining outer parts of the screw, which is inside the hub bearing. I have to try to rework the threads with a M8 thread-mill. It sucks :( I just wanna give you some infos, in case you will be faced with future repair on the shitty water pump... It is doable, in a matter of fact, it is easy, but fiddly. On my 2012 535i xdrive with adaptive drive and dynamic drive there is one trick!... you have to pull the Waterpump from the TOP. Prior to that the fan-shroud has to come out (and preferably the radiator as well. but I managed to let it on his place. then I changed the valve cover gasket... front and rear brakes (rotors and pads) Cabin air filter, cleaning the intake valves and many other things. I'm experiencing a knocking sound when vigorously shaking my steering wheel while the car is NOT running. (ignition off)! So my next project will be trying to remove the steering rack, but I reckon it will be nearly impossible to do that, 'cause there are so many struts and bars due to xDrive and Dynamic drive (active rollbar-stabilsation). Do you have any ideas on how to fix this? well, I assume its the left inner tie rod. I will check tomorrow. I will let you know if you are interested. It would be nice to have you as a friend whom I can share and also learn more about repairing our cars. thank you :)
Super helpful video, thank you. One question though, are you able to install the new assembly without the special press from BMW? I've seen other videos where it appears that the fitment is very snug. Seems like maybe you could put a block of wood on the front side and tap it with the rubber mallet, but wondering if you have tips. Thanks again!
This is the "whole wheel bearing assembly replacement" and its mounted by 4 bolts...if you want to save more money and just change the bearings, then I assume you will need the special press to push out the bearings for its replacement...
@@autorepairs7910 Thanks for clarifying. Likely my mistake, I thought that I'd still have to press the axle through the center. Wasn't sure if that required something special. Thanks again.
The holes will not align any other way, I am not sure that you you can even put it upside down...I've put over 8,000 miles since I changed it, no issues...
You shouldn't have to remove brake fluid unless you also are replacing the brake pads and need to back the caliper pistons back in all the way to make the new thicker pads fit.
