Turbo 3v's sound a lot like Koenigsegg's. Didn't know until recently that Koenigsegg used the 3v 4.6L V8 as a base for their Agera lineup, hence the similarity in sound. Can't wait to put a turbo on mine
@@Doitfor_E Thanks bro! I confirmed it’s 2618 fyi. Also do you notice any piston slap on cold starts? I heard that 2618 forgings tend to be a bit noisy until reaching normal operating temps. I’m interested in forging out my 3v as well.
What gears? I have cams and I the car is shit until 4500? I have a 78/75 aswell and it just feels like it takes forever to build boost. Also it doesn't even feel like it builds any boost in 1st
I have 3.73s with the TR6060 my car is setup on co2 with my boost leash boost controller. Most of the lag went away but you can always brake boost lol I just slapped a 78/75 dual ball bearing in my car, if it lags bad I’ll put the car on nitrous 😅
Do you have the build posted anywhere? Like the cooling and fueling parts you had to buy along with any engine parts? I was to get this kit for my car but have no idea what else I need to get
And also, I bet it's cheaper to buy a 4.6 Mustang, build the motor boost it and make 900 hp then it is to buy a 5.0 Mustang and do Fbo to it. I bought my 4.6 Mustang for 3,700 off auction and after tax fees and shipping it came out to 5,900, 10 grand to build a 1,000 hp capable motor and another 5 maybe for a good single turbo, that's a bit over 20k, a nice stock clean 5.0 with lower miles is gonna cost you at least 25k, not counting the other 20k it would take to build it to 900hp. My 3v 4.6 I got it for 5,900 running, with 53k miles, of course I got lucky but still the point is if your trying to build a budget 900hp Mustang, the 4.6 is the way to go. And I only spent maybe 3k but under 4k on my 4.6 3V to be fbo along with some other things.
People seem to forget or might be too young to remember when 3vs were out there being raced on the strip before the coyote was ever made. I remember seeing plenty built 3vs making 800 plus back in the day.
I was wondering what kind of MAF you’re running ? Good work btw I’m on the way on installing a small turbo I don’t want a lot around 500 I’ll be happy with the stock internals I thought turbo doesn’t put a lot of strain on the engine like a supercharger would and I think I’m good with 500
Ball bearing or journal? Hear me out, might save a lot of work and money. On3 told me not to go past 40-50 psi oil pressure with my journal bearing BMF or it’ll smoke. Recommended a regulator if that becomes the case and it smokes. Idk I feel the drain isn’t big enough if that’s the case. Either way, smoke is caused by oil pooling in the center section. There’s nothing stopping it from seeping into the housing if it gets too full. A lot of crank pressure or a drain issue is most common problem. A regulator would probably solve it.
Mines only smoke when it’s on 23lbs of boost, the turbo is currently tapped out that’s why it smokes for me, I’m running a 10an drain so it’s got plenty of flow. I’m going to run a different turbo so I can make more power, but thanks for your input. I see a lot of people have issues with there drain setup.
@@Doitfor_E Need to dyno that beast on 23psi! Im dyno tuning in May will let you know what it does. I got good set of cams and locally ported heads, should rip. Sounds like crank pressure is the reason for smoke. The 3v dont have very big ports in the valve cover especially on the passenger side.
if you decide to open up the engine go 10.1 compression .. you will make it easy on the turbo to make power and it will spool faster with higher compression you all ready running e85 so it’s nothing risky
Shittest part is I’ve got everything to finish it just never put it together teksid block cobra crank Manley rods wisco pistons mmr timming set wonder Raceing tensioner spacers mhs stage 3 cnc ported heads custom ground cams sheet metal intake fic injectors return style fuel system on hob switch the catch is idk there really isn’t one just never decided to put everything together
@@08Mamba24 I think it’s a 55mm😅 at one point I had a 62mm throttle body and it kept putting the car in limp mode, since I started using the oem throttle body I never had any issues.
What did you do to run E85 safely with stock ECU besides fuel system? I am putting my car together rn, same turbo, fore return system. Pump or race E? I'm wondering how to get around the variation of E at pump with stock ECU.
@@LightningFast240 I have my answer now. Tune it for E80/85. If the E at the pump is a little low it’ll just run a slightly rich. Otherwise fine. Can’t do flex sensor like GM.
@@gforce_117 I mean you can do flexfuel sensor. It just will have to be standalone like to a wideband. That's how I have had mine for 8 years. At least to know alcohol %
@@LightningFast240 yes I could do that but won’t change my tune on the fly. I got a wideband so I’ll be able to see if it’s a little fat from a lower percent at least.
@@cadensunsdahl4837 not true. The rating is off. Regardless the clutch is the limiting factor. The t3650 will handle 500+wtq all day. Which is a lot of torque anyways
People always spend on things that aren't needed. People get 700 -800 hp on their stock crank, you can get boss rods for that are also good for the same amount of hp, for a fraction of the price, then get a set of forged pistons. People always going overboard on building. Keep your power wants in mind, and look into what all needs to be built. Most of the mod motors just need rods and pistons, and you should be fine. Me personally I'm going to 4v swap the heads, have them ported, boss rods, a budget forged piston, and a blower that screams, looking for around 600-700 hp, and I want her to sound like a screaming terminator. 😂 Currently I'm doing everything else, I've done the suspension, breaks, rear diff (4.10 gears), coolant hoses (because the one underneath the intake was leaking, so I did them all.) Pretty much every handling and maintenance item. I'm about to do the clutch, but I'm holding off until I decide if I want to just buy a built tr3650, you can get one for like 1800, which is significantly cheaper than dropping in t56 magnum, because of all the other stuff required. The built tr3650 only needs a 26 spline clutch.
Golly that thing is fast! Shooting for a 1K+ whp build, this gives me a lot of motivation to get it there! It’s sick 👊🏼 2 questions though; What size piping are you running, and in conjunction, what MAF are you using?
@@Doitfor_E sick! I’m gonna run a e boost 2 and see how far it’ll go. Had the heads ported a bit, anxious to see how it does. Gonna start with gas and then move to ethanol.