Scary. People are buying these things with the belief they'll save their lives. They could end up dying instead. How are companies allowed to promote these without them being proven to work? Third world country type lack of regulation right there.
Appreciate the tries. I'd like to see you try one of those seatbelt cutters that you buy special for just that purpose, and that go on your keychain. I wonder if they work.
I had this problem with my 95 XJ. It started making a horrible squeal. The original lasted over 200,000 miles. The replacement lasted only a year. I ended up removing the fan, clutch, and bearing on the ac compressor mount. I then installed an electric fan in place of the old setup. I have much better cooling along with less drag on the engine. You have to measure and use a different size belt after doing this mod. It's been 5 years since with no issues.
AFAIK Jeep never sold the bearing by itself and you had to purchase the whole cradle with the bearing and hub already installed. That's why there's no part description for the bearing alone. But the bearing by itself is sold as a water pump bearing, and that's what it's called. If it's confusing there in the US, imagine here in Europe! I bought one bearing for a Wrangler pump and did the extraction and installation with a hub puller and a ball joint extractor using just a ratchet wrench and a table bench. There's really no need for a press, but I guess it makes things a little easier if you have it. The Renix bearing comes in and out by the front and it's held by a circlip, BTW, but the rest is all the same. Nice video!
Thank you, I have always guessed that no way in #### would these dedicated belt cutters work. I wouldn't go with a 'sharp' knife either, I'd go with a decent knife with a good portion of it being serrated. If you/we need to cut our seatbelt loose, it is likely that we only have a few seconds, like an RNC 4 or 5 seconds and its over....
I have a Kershaw Barricade and I tried using the belt cutter to cut off part off a belt from a baby car seat to convert it to booster...it didn't work no matter what I tried. I then used the actual blade and it cut through easily on the first try.
If you can find a replacement lever and housing assembly that’s not rusted up at a junk yard that would be the fastest way to fix the problem. If you have the means and cannot find one online or at a junk yard, go to a machine shop and have them make you something like what was shown in the video. Hope I hope you can get it resolved
I am working on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with V8 automatic full drive. And it will drive in 4 wheel drive. But when you take it out a 4 wheel drive, it acts like it's in neutral and they won't drive into world drive. What could be my problem?
More then likely it’s a transfer case/gearbox issue, if you’re moving the transfer case lever and it’s not driving in the other T-Case options that’s more then likely the issue
Dude this crap is ridiculous with the “water pump bearing”and hub bearing I couldn’t tell if the hub hole was getting worn or it’s the stud that presses on so hoping the new WP bearing works for me thank you for your help will be posting my own video on this help some more people put understand this there’s nothing on these hubs and you have to get them welded or Fabed up
Am going to put a 2004 Grand Cherokee NP242-J into a TJ with a diesel transplant. question on the Rzeppa. is the 2004 era going to have the same issue when swapping it to my 231's front driveshaft yoke? Your vid is the first time have read/heard this may be an issue. appreciate in advance the reply.
More then likely yes, optimally swiping the front output shaft gear with yoke shaft would be the easiest way to do that and you shouldn’t have to change out the front driveshaft I don’t think. Now you will probably still have the same issue with the wheel speed sensor on the back housing that I had; and for the gear select sensor that’s for you to decide if you want to make it work. It is not required for function of the T-case for it to work but the light won’t show up on your dash cluster that it’s in 4wd
@@jeepinjack4196 Im back at this right now. Appears the 242 front out put is a heavy duty 32 splined shaft, so the TJ's 231 front Yoke is not going to go on that shaft.
@@jeepinjack4196 SYE being solved with Hack-n-Tap. It does nothing for the front driveshaft though. it appears that maybe the conversion Yoke put on Cherokee to get rid of CV (rzeepa) and swap to more common double cardigan front drive shaft (like TJ) may be the ticket.
Looking back now a new assembly isn’t a bad idea if you can find it, going through with this with all the press work still has a little bit of warp even when ran through a lathe however it’s not a issue at all. This was a successful DYI
@jeepinjack4196 I had the warping issue too but fixed it by pressing it back out and then pressing in again, stopping a bit before bottoming out in the bracket. In my case, it seems the end of the bore hole was just deformed.
Thank you so much for the information on this video that is very helpful for anyone that watch this video. May I know the part number Fel-pro gasket that you use for this repair?
I do not have the part number. Another person made a comment mentioned that the heads use different gaskets depending on the year it was made (I didn’t know this when making the video) make sure you get the right one for the right year head
A multi tool would WAAYYY easier. You literally cut those out the most complicated way possible. 1) pneumatic die grinder 2) cutting but 3) air compressor 4) air hose 5) flat file Or 1) battery multi-tool and blade.... 2) done.
OL on the multimeter is not short for "overload" its the abbreviation of "Out of Limits", meaning the level is beyond the limit of the tooks measuring ability. The ohm meter function can measure ohms, through hundreds of thousands of ohms. When the resistance is higher than the machine can display. The high resistance does not load or overload the meter.
Perhaps taking a few minutes to research how to use a tool before fumbling around with it would help. You took the time to do a video to debunk something - you could have learned how & why these are created and used. Just owning a tool doesn't mean you suddenly by osmosis have even the teensy skill required to use a tool. Properly used, they go through seatbelts like a hot knife through butter, much faster than wrestling with the blade.
Very Nice Video! I love that you're a machinist and talk about runout. I would have expected better from the russian bearing maker (assuming it is untrue). I suppose the issue could be in the housing since it is so soft and prone to deformation during the R&R process. I need to do this and the russian bearing is no longer available (war and all) and I don't want to use the junky Omix bearing from India. I sure hope there is another decent option out there. Do you happen to know of any others than your 2 listings?
No the only two I could find are the two from Amazon that I listed, even my local auto parts stores couldn’t help me out but I remember seeing whole new brackets with bearings on the internet for sell
Seat belt cutter don’t work as he proceeds to cut it with blade and almost accidentally slits his throat. 🤣 I’ve got a better idea, unbuckle seat belt. Works wonders!
Thanks for showing this. Mine’s so loose, she’s doing the Tupelo Two-Step. I suppose at 22 years old, and with about 165K on it, all the belt idler pulleys deserve a little retirement.
To cut the belt with a knife grab the belt where it comes out the bottom by the door and poke the knife through the center and then cut in a upside down r shape (driver side left hip area) as you pull three slack out the belt.
Get a 12 dollar swiss tool, it cuts through the belt in 1/2 a second. I own one. I've tested it on a throw away belt. It goes through like nothing, just make sure you don't have slack in the belt or it will ball up.