@@c.w.ocustomledsandmore1395 that's a good question. Without seeing the wiring diagram for your mower, I couldn't say for sure. The key on most MTD mowers I've seen breaks the circuit to the battery in the off position. Could be the key switch is bad or that's the way it's wired. I guess that as long as everything is turned off and there is no draws on the system the battery should stay charged but it sure would be easy to leave something on and drain the battery. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Good luck!
Great video, showing step-by-step process to test stator and voltage regulator. I have a question concerning a charging issue on a B&S 18HP Vanguard V-Twin. I diagnosed the initial issue to a bad stator only providing 11VAC (my Fluke meter automatically switches between AC & DC with auto scaling). I ordered both a new stator and voltage regulator just in case and took the flywheel off, cleaned all the magnets and coils before putting it back together. I did confirm that the old stator was bad, several burnt up spots where located on it and it was cracked. After installing the new stator and putting everything back together, I’m only getting 19VAC out of the new stator at full throttle, specs indicate I should get around 28V. This test was done while the yellow connector was disconnected between the stator and voltage regulator - no back probe was used while connected. When I connect the Voltage regulator I get no DC voltage out of the red wire coming out of the regulator. This is while it is disconnected going back to the battery! I’m not sure where to look now with the low voltage coming from the stator connection. When all wires are connected and engine is at full throttle I’m still only getting 12.x Volt at the battery when it should be between 13-15V. Lost on the next I should follow to try and troubleshoot this any further. Thanks in advance for your help.
@@rickgaudreau7111 , hi and that's a lot of good information! Simple stuff first, have you tried another meter? Sounds like you need to get the ac volts in spec first and then see what happens. Could be the magnets have lost strength. Pull the flywheel again and see how strongly they attract a screwdriver tip. I don't know of a spec for how difficult the screwdriver tip should be to pull off, but the magnets are usually pretty strong. Have you checked the stator for resistance in the coils, the ohm reading between the 2 yellow output wires? Have you checked for leakage of the stator to ground? There should be no ohm reading between one of the yellow stator wires and ground/the engine block. I don't know where you got the stator but is there a chance it could be the wrong part or an inferior part? Are the stators the same diameter? Are the windings the same wire diameter and does it look like the same number of turns are on each pole? Same number of poles on the old and new stator? Good luck, this is a new one on me, hope this helps. By the way, sounds like you are checking the dc output readings correctly, make sure you take them with a good battery connected, with clean connections. One more thing, long shot but, you might want to verify the engine rpms to make sure it's spinning fast enough to generate 20+ vac.
Thanks Don for the reply. I tried getting a reading of the new stator on two different meter - both read 21V AC. The new stator is OEM and purchased directly from a Jacobsen certified supplier and resaler and both the old and new seemed to be identical in look and size except the old one had allot of burnt spots on it and the plastic ring was cracked - copper coil winding looked the same size. I did do an ohm test on the two pins that came out of the stator and got good continuity. I then checked both of these pins to ground and got nothing so no short to ground. I did not test the strength of the magnets, that could be a potential issue. After spending more time on this unit, I found the existing voltage regulator defective. I was testing the output of the regulator while the red pin was disconnected (after finding out that this test needs to be completed while the wires are connected) - I installed a jumper pin between both ends to test the voltage while it was connected and only still saw the 12V! Lucky for me, I had also ordered a new regulator with the stator. Hooked up the new voltage regulator, made sure it was well grounded and saw 13.x Volts at the two red wire pin jumper. I removed the old voltage regulator, install the new one correctly to its location and started the mower again and got 13.x volts at the battery terminals - shows that it is now charging. Although the stator voltage is still lower than specs (28-30VAC) the system now seems to at least be charging the battery at full throttle. I’m just going to leave it as is for now. If it becomes a problem again, I may have to look at the magnets on the flywheel and see how strong they are. Thanks again for your reply, it was really appreciated. Take care.
Hey man Ik it’s been a while but I would be extremely grateful if you could tell me what kinda shaft they have and where you get clutches and parts and what not
Absolutely the BEST explanation on here. There are DOZENS that tell you little or nothing...mostly guys that must have NO one to talk to or trying to show how BRILLANT they are.....
@@doncarlson8391Great video on checking the charging system on a B&S Vanguard. I have a question and looking for your expertise. We have an 18HP B&S Vanguard V-Twin that has a problem charging the battery. After troubleshooting the system based on your video the stator was only outputting 11V (I have a Fluke Meter that automatically detects and switches to AC or DC voltage. I ordered a new stator as well as a new voltage regular. I installed the new stator and confirm that the old one was burnt out in several spots. I clean the magnets and the entire system before putting it all back together. After doing this, the 2 pins coming from the stator is only outputting 19V (specs recommend 28V). I also tried connecting the new regulator and do not get any AC voltage on the output red wire out of the voltage regulator. I am now lost on what else the problem(S) can be. Any idea or suggestions to follow would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I machined off the end of the shaft where Timken rolled it over and "clamped" the assembly together. Then I had to press the shaft out of the hub and everything came apart. Thanks for watching.
does anyone know ,,, i bought a husqvarna zero turn no engine wire are cut to a mess ,,, its not charging i need to know where the wires go ,, from the stator box on the side of the engine to wherever it goes from there ,, two yellow wires and a red wire where do they go > it has an amp gauge with no wires hooked to it ,,,,i have the electric clutch working and the steering safety switches working ,, but thats it have no idea where the wires go from the two yellow wires and red wire ,,where do they go ????
My suggestion to you is to Google manuals for your mower model. The manufacturer may have them online and often other sites have them as well. Sometimes, even when the manufacturer don't list them. Good luck. By the way, some older Husqvarna mower were built but MTD. MTD made mowers for several different brands, you might find one that is similar?
Beauty.Raced these as a chiId; Iate 50's to earIy 60's.WouId Iove to have one for the nostalgic reasons. And the fIat out fun they are.Editing as I just saw the BarnesviIIe, Georgia address. I actually raced down there, dirt if I remember but that could have been Jencinsburg (sic), raced there, aIso DuIuth and ChambIee way Iong time ago.
I sure miss the old wheel bearings, repack them every few years and they would last forever. Most likely the same engineer who came up with putting the fuel pump in the tank, Great video thanks for sharing I was getting ready to rip one apart curiosity was getting the best of me
Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was helpful. I miss the old set up too, they would run forever if you repacked the bearings at each brake job. My guess is, car manufacturers/workers got tired of having greasy assembly jobs and that lead to this, no mess, bolt in design.
Yes, as long as the battery has enough of a charge it will crank the engine. But the battery must be strong enough to crank the engine fast enough that the ignition will produce a spark. If the engine cranks slowly, most likely it will not start.
Just for info.. some B&S engines only have two wires to the Rectifier/Regulator. One from the alternator (yellow) and one to the ignition switch, fuse and battery.
Is there any kind of latch on the red connection or the yellow? I have been trying to just pull mine apart for a while with no luck. It is an older mower so it may just be stuck. Update? I got them apart. No catch just stuck. Big thanks for the video!
More than likely, it is for stopping the engine. If you ground it out (touch the terminal) to the engine when it's running, it should kill the engine. If your engine has a charging coil under the starter cover, it could be a 12 volt output for running lights. Thanks for watching.
I've been told by other watchers that on some tractors there isn't a voltage regulator like in my video and there are a couple of diodes in the wiring harness that serve as a "poor man's" rectifier and provide just enough rectification to keep,a battery charged. This is mostly on large single cylinder engines. I remember seeing a video on RU-vid showing this set up. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!
@@doncarlson8391 well thanks for the reply my friend, I guess this is one of those engines, i double checked myself just today looking for it, and I haven't heard about the diod charge thing at all, I will do some more research 😎😎
