My engine only shakes after warming up. Can someone tell me what it might be? I know there are some smart people here. The vehicle barley moves when pressing the gas, smoke or steam coming out of the exhaust pipe, etc. The water pump went bad and I replaced it. I think I had a blown head gasket. I used gasket sealer and the smoke reduced almost completely but when I first turn the vehicle on a puff of smoke comes out. No check engine light. The temperature guage does not go up enough when my scan tool shows a much higher temperature. The engine is knocking. When I remove the upstream oxygen sensors I hear something like clunking or air quickly releasing from the exhaust valve when it shouldn't, on the side that shakes the most. I would really appreciate advice, suggestions, etc. Thank you.
I noted that my Precision Instrument torque wrenches specify the correct units of measure: LB-FT and LB-IN. Being a college mathematics and physics tutor, it is so annoying that most tool manufactures conflate measures of work with measures of torque--even Snap-on [1]. Thanks for educating your audience, by getting it right, Laura. [1] "Why doesn't torque have the units of joules?" on the "Logically" YT-channel
One cannot find out whether there are worn or broken oil rings by compression and leak down test. Are there any ways to find this out without taking the engine apart.
No. A multi point inspection is a standard part of any auto service. It’s a way for you to know the obvious problems with your vehicle and for the provider to "up-sell" additional services. Usually these services are legitimate, but caveat emptor. A diagnostic test is when the customer reports a problem (check engine light, driveability concern, etc ) and the technician diagnoses the vehicle to determine the cause of the problem. Typically a multipoint inspection is free and a diagnostic is not. Sometimes a diagnostic fee is waived if the shop does the necessary repair.
Never put anything through the hole of your spark plug while you're turning the crank😂 bits of the plastic from the dip stick can break of inside the combustion chaimber or you can damage the thread.
It really has been a few years since you've posted a video. I'm a carpenter, and I think it would be nice to see women join the trade and get to a position like where you both are in the automotive industry. Thanks for the great informative video. Also, I learned something new and important from your 'Shorts' on resistance. Thanks.
Here's a trick, put a latex glove over the exhaust pipe and see if it swells up then u got leaking ex valves. Put it on the dip stick tube also. If the spark plug hole is on the side of the head don't use dip stick you can bend it. Use a stiff piece of wire, and keep checking it does no bind before TDC.
Good and clear. I like the dip-stick trick. On the old British cars that I'm used to the spark plugs come out of the engine at an angle to one side so the piston can trap the long skinny screwdriver that I use, or the dip-stick that you showed us. It'll be fine if you just nurse it upright before it pinches. Good vid!
Informative video thank you.These leak down tests appear to be mainly carried out on petrol engines . Could you please tell me if the green yellow and red bands would also apply to a diesel engine if the same test were carried out using the appropriate adaptors ?
torque sticks are junk take pride in your work and set their lugnuts to proper spec with a torque wrench in this case 140lb-ft you probably zipped them well over that
Just letting you know you cannot check ball joints on that type of suspension unloaded it very well could have play and usually it's normal for a little movement on those suspension types. unless it was extremely excessive
Here's how I find top dead center when doing a leak down test: 1) Connect tester to the cylinder you want to test. 2) Hook up compressor with low (~10 psi) pressure. 3) Turn the engine by hand while looking at the needle on the leak down tester. 4) Watch for the needle to rise (indicating compression). A falling needle indicates an open valve. 5) Keep turning until the needle stops rising (just starts to fall); you may have to back off a tiny bit. You are now at TDC and you can use full pressure to do your test.
