What fixed it . Plugged screen? There's 3 of them . One under the ps pump . One on the vtec solenoid and one on the solenoid on the side of the head . Sometimes an oil change fixes it.
If reinstalling old/repaired alternator. The shoulder bushings on the alternator where mounting bolts penetrate should be driven back with a flat punch until flush, prior to re-install. They will re-adjust when bolts are tightened. oPPP's spoke too soon, looks like you figured it out.....
The end of the puller bolt into your 3/8 drive socket is going to mess up both tools. There should have been a piece to put on that puller bolt to keep it flat. Even a nut on top of the socket would keep it from mangling the end. Also on all these pullers with the center bolt lube the daylights out of that thing. There's going to be a time when you want to use an impact wrench to turn that center bolt and all of a sudden the threads strip. I've turned a lot of wrenches in the last 50 years and I've ruined many pullers. That being said, bearing separator from harbor freight is a good economical tool that does the job. It is a very versatile tool that can do other jobs besides just pull bearings. But a nice video shows how to get those off the correct way. You can always use the hot wrench (cutting torch)
I think more people have angle grinders than bearing separators and in town I live it would be cheaper to buy an angle grinder and cold chisel than buy a bearing separator set.
Great demonstration. I would think that some wheel bearing inner races may be fully seated on the hub so no room to fit the splitter tool underneath or not enough of a lip on the race for the splitter to grab. Can't use the tool kit then. Will still be great for transmission work though. I found a similar kit on Amazon. Have you used this kit on other jobs since? Is it god quality and durable?
Hi - Thanks for the video, did you find out what the problem was with yours - I have a different honda 2.0 Type R FN2 although solenoid unit looks very similar. I replaced my Vtec Solenoid spool valve and switch with a new unit about 3 months ago with oil change etc because of code P2646. It was all ok until last week I got the code again - a new oem Honda unit is £180 here in the UK so don't want to buy another unit. Changed my oil again and the replaced the other oil screen behind the alternator. It was definitely better in so far as I could rev higher, but still over 7800rpm the CEL light comes on and VTEC is prevented with code P2646 any ideas?
