This channel is dedicated to Kawasaki Ninja Motorcycles that include the 2016 Ninja H2, 2018 Ninja 400, 2021 Ninja ZX14R, and the 2022 Ninja ZX10R. There is a current playlist titled the "21-24 ZX10R Transformation Modifications Video Series" with 18 How-To videos along with downloadable detailed instructions as well as the final after-mods ride with a track day at Talladega.
I'll be introducing a new member to the Ninja family; the 2024 Ninja ZX6R (636) 40th Anniversary Edition. This Ninja will also have performance/cosmetic modifications done to it. This will be a long-term mod leading up to an after mods track day ride in early 2025.
There will be other great content that includes all of the motorcycles mentioned above as well as another track day with the ZX10R at Barber.
Be sure to Like, Share, and Subscribe, and if you're already subscribed, be sure to ring that Notification Bell because there's much more great content to come. Thank you again for tuning in to the NINJAof1.
I did take the battery out in the video titled "(003) Disassembly of Fairings", at time marker 11:31. Link Below. I make sure the battery is disconnected before disconnecting any electrical components to avoid blown fuses or worse. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ydw4rEz1Gdc.html Besure to check out the entire build series and download the detailed instructions from the NINJAof1 Google drive. These instructions precisely follow the videos. There are time stamps for each task listed. Link below for the instructions. ru-vid.com?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbUE2a3UybmVrVlhsTkdRNmltQkV4bnZEVnRXQXxBQ3Jtc0trb2djT0FWZXNZNmlEa0RaRDkyLTVBME1tSUoyQzVmY0JjdllsSUFwc3laRXdDTDlob3BzQ3ZFcnpWbC05RXh4T05qV25CUHFYY29wNHZrWFFTcXZTbV92c3ViWnRJNUVOVVB6d1ZzZUdhQ3BWaHZuUQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Fdrive%2Ffolders%2F1CfB8W_XOAED1HcPY7FvFHUI0PHqLTCbp%3Fusp%3Dsharing&v=rfyC1yD7fpQ Thank you for the question. Enjoy.
I did torque everything. I do not remember what the settings were, but I do know that the torque specs are in the Ohlins Installation Instructions. The torque isn't that much. If you torque too much the Hex Bolt Head will deform and the swivel will deform, so be careful. I've mentioned this before, when I work on the frame, engine, suspension, or other critical parts, I use the recommended torque specs according to the service manual or installation instructions. For non-critical parts, I go by feel. After doing this a while, you kinda know. I never use power tools to assemble or disassemble the bikes I work on. Hope that helps. Thank you for the question.
Top Speed: 140 MPH HP: 124.94 Torque: 51.73 Foot LBS. Good question. I captured that dyno on his large screen and you can barely see it in my video because of the rear camera angle covering that part of the larger video. I checked my original footage and it was 140 MPH, in 5th Gear, at 15,000 RPM's.
I know, I only had a little over 700 miles when I took it to Chris. He did some RRRIIIIIPPPING!! to get her broke in. He and I may not have captured it, but we talked about running it for a bit because the HP and Torque was changing, AF, etc., after each run without making any ECU changes, and I believe he got to that point after 3 or 4 runs before he started making any adjustments. I will tell you now, without a doubt, Chris is very intimate with his ability to tune bikes on that Dyno. Each year I watch him, he's always bringing out new information and sharing it with us to understand the dynamics of performance and how to achieve it. Very Rare Breed Indeed!
Nice to know I'm not the only 6', 200 pound "old guy" 😉 out there on a sport bike. Looking to go from my Ninja 400 to a GSX-R 750 in the next couple years. 😀
When I mailed my ZX10R ECU into to Moore Mafia, Chris Flashed it and mailed it back. I also purchased an OBD2 Scanner with the flash, which allowed me to clear the error codes. The ZX6R Engine/Error codes were cleared out by Chris after the Dyno-Tune/Flash. I'm not certain, but I think there is a way to clear errors by using a key/engine on/off sequence and or a variation and combination of riding for a few miles. Either way, it was easier just to get the scanner for the ZX10R. I am very happy with both tunes and if anything was surprising, it was having more performance than I expected. If you want to see how I cleared the Engine/Error codes on my 22 ZX10R, click on the link below it will take you to the video and exact time I do the after-mods start. There's an entire build series for this bike also. Enjoy and thank you for the question/comment. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vbl4EsnMHQI.html
No pops/bangs. It's a shorty muffler, and like my H2 with a Vademon fully tuned, it spits fire all day, and the wheel kinda gets yellow. I can clean it with wd40 and a rag, but it takes a bit of elbow grease. And after a while, it does get annoying if you ride a lot. Thanks for the comment. Got more ZX6R stuff on the way.
Really? That's the first video for the Graves Full Titanium/Carbon Fiber Exhaust? Then that's kind of a big deal, huh? Maybe I should have some more views. I don't know i'm trying.
I don't have the manual in PDF, but I do have detailed instructions for the entire series (Exhaust, Emission, etc.) on the NINJAof1 Google drive in this video description. All of the ZX6R videos follow exactly what needs to be done as they are written. Hope that helps. Thank you for the comment.
That's why I took off the Lower Fuel Injectors, to give me more room to see and work. At least you caught it. Thanks for the comment. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe if you haven't already.
As you sit on the Bike, the Negative Battery Terminal and Negative Wire is on the Right according to the Service Manual. Mine is that way in the video. Hope that helps, Thank you.
These are Vacuum Caps purchased at Advanced Auto. One is a multi-sized multi-pack and the other is single-sized multi-pack. Part Numbers: 47389 & 41050 Thank you for the comment and question.
I appreciate these videos. I have a similar style of modding my bikes, in an OEM+ fashion. I wouldn’t have minded a longer video talking through the steps as you went along but I thank you for your efforts 🫡
I'm trying something a little different when it comes to capturing detailed steps. I made sure that when I time lapse the videos, you'll still be able to see the details. You can change the video speed by clicking on the Settings Gear, Playback Speed, and set the speed to .25 or .5. I have detailed Instructions/Parts/Tools in the description and the videos precisely follow each step as they are documented. You can also view/download the Instructions/Parts/Tools as a PDF from the NINJAof1 Google Drive (See Link Below). Thank you for the comment. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dzGOYhGhcQlEXAH_fEShbF-D0z-Piwyl?usp=sharing
A cheaper, and in my opinion, more ergonomic solution is to get a 1 inch ball mounting bracket, secure it with the fuel tank retaining bolt (if you have the steering damper installed, do it above and not below the mounting bracket for the dampener. ) Use a ram dual ball socket mount and hook it up to the quadlock. The phone will stay stationary and won't turn with the handlebars.
@@NINJAof1 it's no problem. I just got the same ZX6r 40th anniversary edition in july. Absolutely love the bike and watching your videos definitely helps. I had a lot of modifications done by the dealer but in the next few days I'll be throwing on a steering damper putting a gel insert into the stock seat. If you're curious as to how the quad lock set up works, or the seat modifications, I could film a video for one or both.
I'm certain a video about the quad lock would be popular, especially for the ZX6R and the way you suggested on how you did it. Thanks for the info. Looking forward to seeing your posts.
Cheers from Acworth GA Just bought a 24 Pearl White ZX-6R and really appreciate these videos. Well done! This damper shows as out of stock on Kawasaki’s website. Was it listed as out of stock when you picked yours up from the dealer in Rome? What are your thoughts on the damper after a few weeks of use? Worth the investment?
I can have the Parts Manager here look it up for availability. The stock damper was in stock the day I purchased the bike in February and that's when I ordered it. I think it took a week to come in. I haven't really seen the damper in action yet because I'm still modding and breaking the bike in. I'll find out when I go to the track later this year. I believe having a damper is important for any sport bike, especially if you go on the track. Yes, a good steering damper is worth the investment. I wanted stock because Ohlins is specifically designed for Kawasaki. The damper has 18 different settings that you can do manually. I'm just about ready to post the first of five videos (Remove All Fairings) focused on emission deletion, K&N Performance air filter, Graves Full System Exhaust, and finally, an ECU Tune/Flash on Moore Mafia's Dyno. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for the comment/question, and subscription.
Thought I posted an answer for you about the Damper being out of stock. I did check with the Parts Manager, and they are out of stock. If I hear about when the Damper is available, I'll let you know. Thank you
I ordered mine in December it was manufactured 1/24 and I received it March 3rd it has 2,234 miles. I absolutely love mine with the Yoshimura AT2 slip on. It’s loud and abnoxious as hell, reminded daily people liking our 40th anniversary edition ZX6R……..
Thanks for the comment and congratulations on your new 6R. I'm getting ready to do the rest of the mods now (Full Grave Titanium/carbon exhaust, Emission deletion, block-off plates, K&N air filter). Videos will be up very soon.
That's a really good question. I've been working on bikes for a long time and still use the service manual for torque specs. The threads on a bolt/nut and where they attach are specifically designed to handle a tolerable amount of force while still achieving a secure connection. Over torquing will definitely shorten the life of the threads leading to the threads failing (stripping). A good example of using the proper torque on a bolt is the oil drain bolt. You should always use a NEW crush washer (aluminum) with the drain bolt (steal). The washer is designed to compress at a certain torque thereby sealing the drain and preventing unnecessary stress on the threads on the oil pan. Another example is clutch covers because clutches inevitably have to be replaced especially for drag bikes and track bikes. Using proper torque setting guidelines (torque on bolts and torquing patterns) as specified in the service manual ensures you will be able to have many service cycles without fear of stripping bolts or having leaks. There are torque settings for literally every bolt and screw on a motorcycle within the service manual. I normally follow torque specs for anything related to the engine/frame/suspension. When it comes to fairings and other non-critical parts, I usually go by experience. After doing this for a while you sort of know how tight something should be. I do this best by not using power tools on any bolts or screws when assembling or disassembling. Many people will have differing opinions about this subject, but I've found that having the correct tools, following the service manual recommendations, and taking your time all leads to you having the highest degree of confidence that your motorcycle is safe to ride. Hope that helps. Thank you for comment.
The detailed parts list is at the bottom of the Description below. Also listed is where I purchased the parts (Amazon, Dealership, etc.). Hope that helps.
Sweet video. Does Kawasaki recommend anything else than the oil change at 600 miles? I have about 450 on mine now and wondering if I should bring it in to the shop or just do the oil change myself
I've seen many people do their first oil change and others bring it in for their first service. It really is your preference. Some will bring it in for all the other checks the service department will do, like check chain tension, brakes, tire pressure, important fasteners and bolts, etc. When I bought my H2 it came in for its first service for sure, but for the ZX6R, too easy. Below is a checklist from the Service Manual for the first 600 miles. Thanks for the comment. -Idle Speed -Throttle Control System -Fuel System -Cooling System -Clutch Operation -Engine Oil -Brake System -Brake Operation -Steering Play -Condition of Bolts/Nuts/Fasteners
Check for your warranty, here in Canada i HAD to bring it into the kawasaki shop to not void my warranty ! But that's the only time I have to do it, now I can do it myself ! I also have the same zx-6r 2024 ! Great video btw, nice mods idea !
According to Kawasaki's website (kawasaki.com) under 'Warranty FAQ', they recommend the owner keep a record of services performed IAW the Owner's Manual Scheduled Maintenance Period (Logbook, Receipts for Filters and Oil, etc.). I couldn't find anything about Kawasaki Warranties in Canada. Thank you for the comment.
It is a beautiful bike. It will get even more beautiful when I install the Graves full titanium/carbon fiber exhaust. Coming soon. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you. Be sure to check out the first video in the ZX10R build Series. There is a viewable/downloadable instruction sheet with time stamped links that will take you directly to the video related to the task. Enjoy. ZX10R Instructions: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rfyC1yD7fpQ.html ZX10R PlayList Build Series: ru-vid.com/group/PLzdClgclXkSN2j1d_FHIjUc9TsrZhP6U7
I have the same bike! So far on mine I've done tst fender Elim. And the integrated taillight. Yoshimura at2 slip on (breather box delete). Which air filter do you recommend?
My riding is a mix between the street and track, so I like the K&N. I have it on all bikes and cars. Easy to clean and reuse. If you're doing track stuff exclusively, then I'd recommend the Sprint P08 or alike. The P08 will give you a slight increase in horsepower over K&N but comes with the risks of having a thinner element. If either are used and maintained correctly, they will protect and last a very long time. Thank you for comment/question.
Another subscriber had the same issue (@johnklein6322) and I posted the following: ***@johnklein6322, the screws I took off for the passenger seat were the passenger seat locking mechanism bracket screws (that's what I call it in the video). I used a large Phillips head screwdriver bit-kit. This way I had a choice of bits that would properly fit in the screw head. There's a lot of locktight on those screws, for good reason. Once I knew I had a properly fitting bit, I just put all my weight down and turned. Taking the locking seat mechanism off allowed me to remove the small angle bracket used to secure the ECU.*** He said he was going to go to a machine shop, but he never posted how he got the screws out. I reached out to him today to find out what he did. When/if he replies, I'll let you know. Thank you.
@Chewychris66, @johnklein6322 said he drilled the screws out and re-tapped the threads. I also mentioned this as an option for him Below: There's a lot of lock tight on those screws. I believe it is blue. Heating, Small drill in the center of the screw and extractor is the preferred way. Worst case scenario, you may have to drill out the remainder of the screw and use a Heli-coil kit. If you're lucky and don't drill too big of a hole, you may be able to salvage the existing threads. You want to be able to replace the screws with the same size (length) and type screw that has a flat/flush head. This will allow the screw to go through the locking mechanism bracket and also allow the passenger seat/pillion cowl to mount properly. Hope that helps. Let me know. Thank you If you are able to salvage the threads on the sub-frame or you use a Heli-coil kit, the part number for the OEM screws is: 92172-1432 If you are not comfortable doing this, take it to a dealer service department. If you are unable to take the bike into service, then take the four hex-bolts off the side of the sub-frame (2 on each side) and remove any other components attached to the top portion of the sub-frame. When reinstalling, make sure you torque those four hex-bolts to spec.
Nothing to do with your 6. I know you did a zx10r. I’m making a shopping list for mine. I’m considering stacks and block off plates. Can’t decide. Any thoughts? Worth it? A friend swears I’d be thrilled with some velocity stacks. Never had em, can’t decide. Thinking maybe I might, don’t want to do it after I flash the bike.
My understanding is the after-market or older ZX10R versions of velocity stacks add a small amount of mid and top end horsepower (3-5). In my opinion, the stock stacks do just fine for my riding style. I don't plan on maxing out the engine to get HP that I will never use. With the mods I have now (Cat delete, SC Project Mid-pipe and slip-on, Emissions Delete, Block-off plates, BMC Race Air Filter, and ECU Flash by Morre Mafia), there's probably 190-195 HP, which I will probably never reach. Some of the velocity stacks I've seen are fairly expensive. So, in my opinion, it isn't worth it for me. BTW: The PlayList link below will take you to the entire build series for the ZX10R. The first video in the series has detailed instructions on all the mods I did, in the order I did them, a link to the related video with an embedded time stamp for all the activities, part #/description/etc. You can download the instructions and/or the parts list from the NINJAof1 Google drive in Excel or PDF. All the information to get to these files are in the description of that first video in the PlayList. Hope that helps and thank you for the comment. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rfyC1yD7fpQ.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
I only had to shave down just a little from the sides of the Blue and Black connectors for the turn signals. I just stayed away from where the detent tab was so it would still be functional and lock. I think if you tried to make the hole bigger it may bend or distort the bracket. If I had to do it again, I'd do it the same way as the video. After shaving down the sides of the turn signal connectors I put those through the hole first then the license plate light connector last. Not having the license plate wire in gives you just enough room to slide the shaved-down turn signal connectors. Hope that helps. Thank you.
Just take your time. You'll never have to mess with routing the connectors through the hole again. Even when you take the bracket off for a track day, you can disconnect them and remove the entire assembly. That's what I did last track day.
If there is any complaint to be had about this video it is that it’s too in-depth lol. Awesome video I just purchased a 2024 ZX 10R and I want to do most of the work myself so I’m sure I will be able to accomplish everything that I want to do to my bike from your videos, thank you.
Thank you for Subscribing and the comment. My goal for the 10 series was two-fold: Be as detailed as possible for those who want to do it right and provide real-life troubleshooting for anyone doing something like this for the first time. This isn't my first time modding, but it is my first time modding a 10R. There's more 10R stuff coming along with my H2 getting its first valve adjustment. Be sure follow. Also, check out the PlayList for the entire series (Link Below). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rfyC1yD7fpQ.html In the first video I have a file you can download as a PDF or Excel with step-by-step instructions for all the mods, in the order I did them. Each link is embedded with a time stamp that takes you directly to the specific task within the subject video. Enjoy!
