On this channel I share information about my woodturning and coffee roasting hobbies. My goal is not "infortainment" so please don't expect spectacular camera work, editing or presentation skills; just the facts.
There are threaded holes on the underside of the lathe, the manual describes the pattern. I drilled oversized holes (to account for error) and bolted from the underside of the bench.
Hello David,how well does the over head blade guard dust collection work? Did you have to order it with the over head guard or did WSI have it in stock that way? Thanks
The overhead guard is great! My old saw had one mounted on the riving knife and always seemed to deflect it to one side. I ordered it with the saw so I'm not sure if it's in stock here in the states.
it worked pretty good on the bigger branches . I sold a Bushmaster 15 hp , the thing was heavy and I wasn`t happy about the way the clippings came out at the bottom of the chute . I wish there was a great 3-4 inch chipper that had the chute at the top that threw out the chipping . if yours had the top chute exit I think it would be even a better chipper
You complicated things, you should have used a scraper to cut the ledge off and then use the gouge to make the final cut. Its got to the point where its frowned upon in the video world to use a scraper when you can get a great accurate smooth finish with little sanding. I love the way a bowl gouge hogs out a bowl and leaves a good smooth finish but if there is any question of accuracy the scraper saves the day and I don't have to apologize for using it. Thanks for sharing this great video and I wasn't really getting down on you, just the fact that there is no shame in using a scraper. 7:02
November 2023 update - the bandsaw continues to work just fine. In this video I was too harsh on the ceramic guides. They guide the blade quite well and will never seize up. The side guides will loosen up a bit after heavy resawing but that's my only really complaint.
I have an electric wood chipper and I get stuff fly out to, so best way it to have the wood your chipping and to load is to stand at the side then load it, then that way you are out of the way of anything flying out of the chipper, hope this helps you to stay safe and operate better in the future, but always use PPE to protect yourself, and with that then a full face shield is the best that safety glasses, good luck with your chipper and safe chipping in the future, paul
I have a DR chipper/shredder model 300 (I call it the 9.5 since it has 9.5 ft-lbs of torque). The 11.5 model (with 11.5 ft-lbs of torque) is still a consumer model. I wouldn't classify it anywhere as a prosumer model because it's not powerful enough. Its chipper function is very good. In fact, the self-feeding feature on the chipper chute is too aggressive. If you drop a 3" to 4" log in the chipper chute, it will self-feed very aggressively and vibrate like crazy. Then the engine will stall after it takes too big a bite that the blade can't chop through because of the undersized engine. Stalling puts a lot of wear on these direct-drive small engines that don't have a belt drive to absorb the shock. You can chip 3" to 4" logs, but you'll have to pull the log back, feed it slowly, rotate it constantly while feeding it, and keep it from self-feeding too aggressively. The biggest limitation of the DR consumer models such as the 11.5 and every model below that is they have a narrow throat in the shredder hopper. The shredder hopper throat on my 9.5 model is 2"x6". Since it's so narrow, vegetation clogs in the throat constantly. The 11.5's throat is 4"x6", twice as big as the throat size as the 9.5 model. I wish I had bought the 11.5 model instead.
Hi David, thanks for showing all the details of your machine, I think I've watched your videos about 10 times. I would like to ask you a question, how does your machine work after 1 year? If you could you would choose another brand, or you are happy with SCM, I have watched many videos to choose the purchase of a sliding table saw. Thank you very much in advance. Your workshops are very nice.
Hi, Yuset, the saw is still working great. It has stayed perfectly calibrated as far as I can tell. The only real design annoyance I've had is with the 3/4" gap in between the wagon and blade. The gap is there in order to allow a dado stack to be installed, standard on this USA-targeted saw. I seem to wind up needing to rip lots of narrow pieces so I made a Fritz & Franz jig. The issue is that often only about 1/2 of the stock is supported by the wagon. If I had to do it over again I would get a model with no dado support. I do all my grooving on the router table. The table lock hardware was installed incorrectly, making it only lock in the middle position. It's supposed to lock in the middle and far back. I simply needed to move the locking gates forward a bit. I worked with SCM's US support on the problem and they were 100% useless.
Hello David, I was watching the video again to see the 3/4 separation between the carriage and the blade. I currently work for a company, they have an Altendorf F45 that has a 1/2 separation between the carriage and the blade. I have looked at the Felder K 700 S but I have heard that its single-phase motors are not very good and that aligning the sliding carriage is an arduous task. Thanks for the help, greetings from Florida. Yuset
Hello David, I was analyzing the Altendorf sliding saw that I work with, from the factory it has a filling before the blade, then the blade, the plate and lastly the nut are assembled, all of this to bring the saw blade closer to the sliding carriage, if you like I can take a video or photos, maybe I can help you. Greetings
You are a thousand times right: this is the essential question, but on this level, we find no answer in the video. This video is a very poor comparison that doesn't teach anything important...
I bought one about a year ago. Before I had ten hours on it, the drive shaft broke. I never fed anything over 2" in it. DR did cover the rapairs with the warranty but it took about 4 months to fix. When I got it back, I hadn't put five hours on it before the fly wheel came loose. I'ts been in the shop for three months with no idea when DR will ship the parts.
Thank you for the video this resolved my drainage issue a piece of glass was stuck in there .. saved me hundreds of dollars .. also for anyone the pump is not easy so use some force to twist it
That remote is also super prone to breaking WHEN it gets dropped. There’s very little plastic for the screws that hold it together, and that plastic will break, causing the batteries to have an intermittent connection. A replacement remote costs $128……. That’s also weird that you have to empty the fine dust bag more often. My main bin will fill to overflowing before that small bag needs to be replaced, and even then, it’s never more than 1/3 full.
Learned my lesson. Will never buy another DR product as long as I live. That good for nothing briggs engine spends more time not working that running. Nothing but trouble.
Asked every old timer/expert at my club demo the other day, not one knew how to properly use a bottom feeder. Now I have something to work with, thank you.
@@zenletter Preference, mostly. I like hollowing while matching the profile of the bowl. I'd also be wary of crashing the right wing into the near edge.
Doesn't surprise me about Stanley you've always had to work on them they don't come out of the box ready they never have they never probably will although it'd be nice if Stanley actually put forth an effort making them ready to come out of the box
David you mentioned Milwaukee I am in Wauwatosa let's get together and roast some beans together ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SMGXP-Ys_IQ.html
I would look for a dedicated jointer. The tables will stay aligned and they will also be longer. While the tables on my machine have been behaving lately, only needing a tuneup after a few years, it's still something you have to keep your eye on.
@David Peters Unfortunately this seems to be the only 12" jointer at this price point. I've got a sawmill and I want to make my own stock for a future cnc router. 8" just seems a bit limiting for a cnc
David, I have the same saw as yours . I wanted to let you know a change I made on mine concerning the locking mechanism on the slider. There is a 10 inch locking device that when locking pin is engaged the slider only locks in 1 location. I changed that to a 7 ft locking device so now I can lock the sliding table any where I choose going forward or backward, it allows more versatility . If you would like more information or a photo of it I can send it to you. Just answer with a reply and I will get in touch. I did share this information with Minimax to improve their saws, but I don't know if they did. I bought mine in 2016 after we flooded in Louisiana, all my machinery got ruined. It has been a great saw, I love mine. Also, I installed a on/off switch on the end of the slider , works great.
I have that same saw on order. You have addressed two features that I felt were desirable and missing, multiple carriage stops and start buttons on the end of the table. Any insight into these improvements would be appreciated. Thank you, Fred
@@FredChuckovich Hello, I would like to ask you a few questions since I see that I bought this sliding saw, how are you doing with the new saw? Are you happy with that saw? If you could, would you buy another brand? Thank you very much in advance, I am looking for a sliding saw and I have not yet decided on which one. Thank you.
