The fixes you have are old tried and true method's I've seen this done on even 100 dollar hammers, mallets, axes and other wooden handled tools. But When you have 3 percent or less complaining i think the odds are in our favor. Again you are highlighting faults as if it's the norm and you are way off!
It is not the norm on HF hammers with wooden handles though. Others I would agree with you on but with these brands the comments about the loose handles are a lot more than 3% and if the simple old school fix works and someone did not know about it then it benefits them. I highlight the fault with a simple fix and explain how I do it but if you do not experience the issues I mentioned then i think that is fine.
@@TheHomeHandyman I'm going by the personal experiences of people I no I'm the trades, my own experiences, the reviews of other RU-vidrs as well as the posted reviews on the web site, they all say you are making mountains out of mole hills. Especially when the items in this video alone have 4.7-4.8. stars.
@@larryblackmon2341 I also know that companies like HF etc- hire firms to write reviews and to not put a lot of belief in them. These companies write good and bad reviews (attacking to persuade people to buy another product) usually landing in the 4-5 range and they are not hard to spot. The proof here is when you know of a product to be junk you still see 5 star reviews and most of them are from people who have never seen the product let alone used it. If your experience is good with the product then thats fine but if not and if there are simple modifications or tips on what to do even if they are old school why would you not consider it? I am not making a big deal out of anything really. I am just mentioning problems you may or may not have and if i can suggest something that helps why not? As far as making mountains out of mole hills and your comment on 4.7 + star ratings as i stated I know better on how star ratings are formed and by who. Look it up for yourself and you will see how corrupt the star rating systems are. They all say ? Well i suppose they should not watch because i reach plenty of people that appreciate the suggestions and what other people from the local club that own the tool have to say about it. Again, If it helps you great and my feed back on the forums etc- are all the proof i need.
Always a good idea to have one or two cheap models of each tool u have (screw drivers, pliers, wrenches, scissors, etc) to use as beaters, rough work, experimenting and loaning out
Never use this type of rag when rebuilding an engine or transmission. You might get a piece of that fiber stuck in a valve body and that will be coming back with a stuck valve , use a lint free rag or towel.
My god if this is peoples issues in life yall are doing pretty dang good in life. its a cheap rag thats cheaply made. yep thats why ya buy em. Seems kinda like a bottom of the barrel video. Review something more worthwhile
That is your opinion and I do these reviews on a variety of topics ranging from small dollar value to higher amounts. If it bothers you so much then simply don't watch them because other people find the information useful. It is not peoples issues in life but rather a awareness of things you may want to consider before purchase and running into the same issues. As far as your comment about the video being the bottom of the barrel and to review something else, well I would tell you that your comment is useless, baseless. nothing more than a petty attack, and obviously comes from a person in the shallow end of the gene pool.
I have an old school Black & Decker drill that my dad gave me years ago and after a few fails that I thought would be the right one, I ended up removing the chuck and taking into the store with me to see how the chuck key would work.
Yeah, I know what you mean. A lot of those drill chucks can be removed and replaced with a new matching chuck/key. Some of them have a screw down inside the chuck that you remove, and some mount on a threaded shaft. I've replaced them before on hand drills and on drill presses. The ones on the drill presses mount on a tapered shaft.
That is the best way if you can remove the chuck easily - I agree and with some older drills that are still good it is not so easy to find the right key.
What's up bro, mechanic here. These are shop rags, not rags meant for "cleaning". They're meant for use of like... wiping oil or grease off of your hands so they aren't as gross so you can keep turning wrenches, or the oil pan after spraying it with some brake clean etc. You want a towel that's meant for actually absorbing and picking up sills or messes? Yes... use the appropriate item (the blue ones are best). Hope that helps.
I agree with you on your use of them. Myself not being a mechanic or automotive tech and using them in a shop setting they have their uses for me and i use others for the work I do also for the reasons i mentioned. You have a good point on using them for auto related projects so thanks.
Yeah, those shop towels aren’t for wiping anything other than grease of parts or hands, or holding greasy parts. They should be called grease towels because that’s what they are. You can wash them in the wash. Just wash them all at the same time, and by them selves. Whites are good in the kitchen.
I only use them for wiping off my hands,after I use hand cleaner,& they work fine for me.As far as them bleeding in the wash,mine don't because I pre-washed them twice.I don't wash them with my regular clothes,just what I wear when working on something.
I'm still on my first two bags I bought three years ago. If I'm cleaning something up in the shop I want it cheap. It's a shop. I've learned my lesson on the red ones. Yes the bleed but, the washing truck and even soaking them in vinegar first helps immensely. If I'm doing a clean up I use a rag. If it needs to be clean then the microfiber towels are great. But I was raised rags and towels are different. You don't risk the good stuff on clean up.
I appreciate your opinion on the shop towels. I have used the HF brand, but will try the Sellars brand. If you have Menards, that box of towels is under $10.
I have one of the HF purple spray guns that I got for $9.99. I couldn't get the paint to wet out nicely unless I cranked up the pressure to 40 psi. I was painting a motorcycle gas tank with urethane paint. A few days later, I saw one of my friends that works in a body shop. I asked him why I needed so much air pressure if it was a HVLP gun. He said that it was not really a HVLP gun. Harbor freight just calls it that. The gas tank came out beautiful, but it took some fiddling and some practice.
Well I’ve considered buying this tool to use on wood only. I used different methods including a grinder with flap discs. I think at lower speeds this will do great on wood in my situation as I give wood an aged look that’s new wood or construction grade wood. Flap discs are angled and can’t get a flat surface with it. It all depends on your needs. I imagine faster speeds cause a melting build up from what you are surfacing especially on metal. So speed is friction and makes the paint sort of melt. Wood could do that same effect as sap heats up. Either way I think I will invest in it when it on sale. Thanks for sharing this!!
Please more of that, it really inspired me to think of better saving options than, let’s say, a simple savings account. I will definitely look into how to start putting money into a fund. It will probably be very a slow process with the little sums I might be able to spare, but as the saying goes: Rome wasn’t built in a day. Cheers!
Like a snow ball everybody started out small but by adding to it and worrying about the ups and downs it will grow. The biggest thing is to just get started.
Thank you for such a detailed explanation on your restore project. Your knowledge and savvy on what products to use to remove rust with chemicals and grinders really helped. You completed a project that most people would not try to do. I have an antique kitchen stove has a hole in the burn box that is slowly eroding and getting longer and deeper over the years. I have been using High Heat furnace cement which lasts two to three weeks. I am going to try the JB Weld Extreme and see if it lasts longer.
I would say it is worth a try on your stove. I do not use the old stove I restored all the time so how it will hold up with constant heat every day use I am unsure of but it is still holding up for me at this time. I have used high heat furnace cement also in a fire place I have and it holds up but every few years (only using during winter months and heat is constant on it) I have to scrap and reapply some more.
Good video. I have that help spray gun used it on a few wood projects no complaints. Invest in quality regulators and filters Merlin or commercial grade not central pneumatic. I put a few drops of air tool oil in the spray guns after use I live in a few humid area. Keep the videos coming
I agree you need good filters, hose, pressure regulator and then you have eliminated most all the potential problems that people run into using a spray gun......Thanks
