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Did you ever figure out the fact the mount has to be turned 90Deg and then attached to the chassis. A mount cannot absorb a sideways movement like that. The pressure needs to come at 90deg to the mount. Not sideways....and then there's all the issues with trying to get that tuff to dryout etc. It's possible but not that way.
I’m doing it on my integra but I don’t think I need the brackets since mine have some build ones already In the back of the subframe. should I try and use them or just stick with the ones already there
Just picked up my first 5th gen D16z6 with a turbonetix 50mm setup pushing around 18lbs of boost. And your absolutely right about ambient temperature playing it's part in increasing or decreasing hp at max boost. I live in South Carolina so i fully understand that principle. I am getting on a cooler day around 375- 400whp. So hotter days i am easier on her due to sputtering at higher rpm. Love the build so far and looking forward to seeing you finish her up.
it wont repair it. this is only a brace, a support to make the rear end of the car more solid, but it is still bolted to the subframe if the subframe rusts away (which it eventually will), the brace will fall off and the car will break what you should do is look for another civic like this (i beleive the hatches, sedans and coupes all have this same exact rear subframe, but i did no deep research on this so dont quote me on that) with a new subframe cut from a donor car, you should take that and your car to a professional welder to cut and swap the pieces (yes, it will be kind of expensive, but you do not want to try it yourself if you are not an experienced welder, you dont want your rear suspension disconnecting from the rest of the car mid-drive)
also, if you havent, you should take out the carpet (some bolts here and there, take out the seats front and rear, center console, some trim) and coat the interior floor panel in 2 coats of a special anti-rust sealant. VERY IMPORTANT TO HAVE ALL RUST REMOVED BEFORE DOING THIS!!! otherwise the rust will keep creeping underneath the coat and not only will it be harder to repair, but it will be harder to spot mild rust
Ik this is an old video but if you can get back to that would be awesome. How did u rewire the radiator fan so theyre constantly cooling? Doing my thermostat, radiator and oil change tmrw figured I’d knock out the fan problem
I tried this it worked much better than I thought it would though I didn't really read the dry time I assumed 24hr and when after 24hr still wet I went online to check and yeah needs 1 whole week.. I decided to run it like that anyways and it worked well anyhow no more play in my bushing.. Not sure how long it will last.. I may redo it again with window sealer since that take 24hr instead or just replace the bushing.. since the sealer is quite expensive as well..
Lol ? And no offense but why did you show 7 days on the test ride and you said 3 days later after? And you left the air filter loose and it look like you didn’t but the bolt mount back to the frame Well at least you did try
just came across you this morning and this build literally reminds me of what I would have loved to have done to my 95 civic hatch but I stupidly got rid of it. kick myself in the ass every time I see one lol
If one mount is old and cracked they all are. Best practice is to replace (glue in your case) all motor mounts same time and the transmission mount. Most places online sell all mounts as a kit. Just sayin
he dont kno how to launch his own car plus need a tcu tune on that and its older pre facelift u can tell by the steering wheel and interior the facelift ones way better imo lol he was tryna blame draggy cause he cant launch his car he not even letting it build boostsmh
