The Journey between two mates who have a passion for modifying cars after a solid 3 years of RU-vid I’ve decided to team up with Luke at LJB Automotive Detailing. We have some exciting projects coming to the channel as well as continuing to improve the existing projects that have already featured so stay tuned for what’s next because we’re looking to send it all the way to the moon.
Super important to do this to suit your setup. Cornering performance is “interesting” when the suspension compresses to mid-travel and the badly adjusted links hit the frame and stop the compression.
Hi lad just wondering what coilovers are you running on. My fez needs a full front suspension rebuild 😂. And I'm not sure what coilovers to get. Love the rims👌👌
Not only are you a genius mechanic your also a little bit psychic Ted, I ordered that exact set of drop links the other day and with this video I will have no problems fitting them. Nice one brother
@@tonystreet3574 you need the weight on the car to set the links up and to sit in the car or mimic the weight of yourself sitting in it so no tension is on the bar unless you’re cornering ie the bar can do it’s job properly 🙂
@@norm4260 thanks mate and not a clue luckily I’ve just fitted new coilovers (didn’t film it as I’ve had a few teething issues with the car) however they wasn’t gonna be filmed anyway you’ll find out in the new year etc. getting to the point my new ones are a macpherson strut which means the springs built into the shock like the shock so I don’t need to worry about the brackets now 🙂
First of all, I enjoy your videos and appreciate your content, so thank you. They've been a useful guide for getting joba done. Having said that you have a tendency to cut out the difficult parts (like reinserting the new pipe) which would be useful to see and is essentially why people are watching your videos. I imagine you are starting to make money on advertising and save money on parts from sponsering suppliers so invest some of that on updating and upgrading your filming equipment and filming process so you don't miss anything out. Don't assume that whwt is not important to you is not important to me. That to one side, you are still producing great content so keep up the great greasy work.
@@jefcharles thanks for your kind words the camera died at that point unfortunately and before I knew it there was no way I was getting that back off and on again I was covered in brake fluid not all videos have bits where they cut off the important bits I promise you that, but I can’t get it right everytime. As for ad revenue I get like £30 a month if I’m lucky so upgrading my equipment is a distant memory at the moment all I can say is if you want better videos where I have better equipment maybe share the video and get your friends to subscribe 🙂 ps we don’t have parts sponsors even though it’d be this is all funded by us thank you for your comment though I will take what you said on board
Yet another top notch vid Ted, I've just ordered the st coilovers for my blue 150, should be here Wednesday, done the abs pump and snapped both bleed nipples on the rear calipers!! Nothing is ever easy
Hello "Built Different " I saw that in your channel have some problems. For these problems your channel is not much growing. Not getting much engagement. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will get more engagement. If you can give me permission I can tell to you about these problems. Can I tell here or email? Okay?
Did you actually managed to loosen the tension on the change via the t30 who and using an m6 bolt? Looked like it was being a pain and when you did take the cam sprockets off the chain looked tensioned? Only asking as I’m currently trying to do stem seals and having a ball ache trying to de tension the chain 🤦♂️
@@carlalmquest7985 either way works however I find using that torx screwdriver works well it’s way smaller than a t30 maybe a t10 or something and yeah the chain holds tension until you crack off one of the cam pulleys so don’t be alarmed you’ll know when you’ve locked the tensioner back as you won’t be able to pull the screwdriver out unless you yank it hope this helps
@@6uiltdifferentnice one, thanks mate. Yes have everything ready to go to do it in place with air compressor to hold the valves. Hopefully will go ok. Just the chain that I wasn’t 100% confident with, especially when you’re trying to do the tensioner blind 🤣. I have been trying a small flat head and was long and bendable, so plenty of length to reach in. Will see if I can find a longer torx like the one you had 👍
@@carlalmquest7985 no worries mate and good Atleast you’re not giving yourself extra work, it is a bit worrying at first but once you’ve done a couple you feel more confident .even if you have a long pick as the cosworth guide shows them using one of those so that may work for you aswell let us know how you get on 👍🏻
@@6uiltdifferent will do mate, thanks for the help. Much appreciated. Great videos by the way. Definitely helps a lot as you have seem to have done quite a few of the jobs I am wanting to do. Keeping mine completely standard but your guides still help a lot with the majority of it
The one thing which I’m struggling to understand is how the camchain adjuster is pushed back in and then retained? I see how you release it but not how you then push it back in under tension? Thanks.
@huwdavies7503 once the tensioner is released you rotate the engine backwards then place a locking pin in the engine all the steps are in the video trust me
@@16jack13 thanks mate and leaving it till I’m Able to get it painted a lot of people try to cover the rust but instead create a water trap for it and by the time you can see it it’s too late hence why mines just left as is
Another top vid Ted, bay is looking very clean. I need some advice mate. I've noticed when it's raining the water that runs down the windscreen goes through the grill in the scuttle as it should but then is pouring directly onto the abs pump, am I missing a part that goes under the scuttle to direct water away from the pump? I'm replacing the abs pump this coming weekend for the second time in 4 months and can't help thinking it getting drenched when it rains isn't harming it, any help is appreciated mate.
Thanks Tony much appreciated mate and it’s a common one on these I’m pretty sure there’s a seal on the scuttle panel that goes bad I need to look into this myself as mine does the same however as you can tell most of my scuttle panel is missing as I removed it
I have a cosworth inlet ready to fit but im stuck with What to do with the vacuum solenoid connection plug that goes on the standard inlet will this cause a fault code if that is not plugged in
@@cheekyfellow1980 as you can see on my one it doesn’t have it the holes were welded on mine and no light comes up on the dash and no fault codes are present
did you try remove the abs sensor spacer or does it need to be a bit more closer than that 2mm? also really i am shocked by hoow much rust is on the rear end of the car xD
Hmm… the ABS rings are very sensitive I think. 🤔 I’ve just had two front and one rear bearing done on mine but I’m using the stock bearings. I would suspect that a race car /cup car has NO abs? Most normally have brake bias valves which I think is illegal for road use or something (might be wrong there as rally cars have it surely)… 😮 maybe the cup bearings have no abs ring? 💍
Cup cars didn’t run abs, however bias valves aren’t illegal I know of plenty of road cars that use them when they’ve converted to rear discs on an old escort etc, as for the rally cars I have the group N manual and they also do away with the abs pump but leave it plugged in to keep the errors from the dash. The and rings aren’t built into the bearings on these they’re seperate to the hub altogether
@@6uiltdifferentsuper :) yeah I wasn’t sure but thanks for confirming :) Hope you get it resolved :) The minor electrical gremlins in the st150 can be very annoying 😮
Hi mate I’m thinking about upgrading to this aswell have you had any problems of overcooling people seem to have different opinions , reply would be appreciated cheers
Hi, Sorry to drag up an older post (great video by the way, been looking for something like this for ages to correct the mileage on an upgraded Convers+ IPC). I have the cable you recommended and the Ford OBD software you kindly provided, but wonder whether you know for sure that the '96,028' went onto your IPC as Miles or KM, as although your IPC screen is showing 96,028 MILES, the Ford OBD software only seemed to display what was being written as KM in the video. I currently have aprox' 107,000 Miles on my old IPC and about 178,000 on the new one, therefore, if I set the new one to 107,000, it's brilliant if that's definitely Miles, but would be an issue if it's KM. I hope this makes sense, and thank you in advance for your comments and future videos. Cheers, S.
@@shoonyuk6292 don’t be silly it doesn’t matter how old the video is I’m always happy to help I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment, so what you need to do is set the clocks to 0 as you’re rolling the mileage back and that’s the only way you can get the mileage lower. Once set to 0 type in on google miles to kilometres converter and convert the mileage to kilometres once you’ve done that type in the figure you get for kilometres and set the clocks the. You’ll see the correct mileage in miles on your ipc hope this helps
@@6uiltdifferent Brilliant, thank you for your swift and useful response. So, just to be clear (Div alert here :-)) 107,000 Miles equates to 172199.808 KM, so, if I insert 172199.808 KM into the Ford OBD software and write it to the new IPC, the new IPC should then display the Mileage as (or close to) 107,000 Miles?
@@norm4260 you could and it’ll work well but it won’t get the old fluid out of the abs pump plus you won’t get a better bleed in the same time the abs pump could do it in
@@6uiltdifferent no I meant do the ABS pump bleed like you showed, but if didn't have a second person around to top up the reservoir, use the pressure bleeder instead?
@@norm4260 there’s probably loads to still learn mate every days a learning day, engine mods won’t be for a while but you’ll see why in the up and coming months I’m Getting there slowly just it costs a fortune lol
Deffo a great tip to have I’ve used forscan few times over the years on few fords liking the new rims aswell oz are they 15’s is the car more responsive on smaller wheels than the 17 you had on 👍🏻
@@shaungowler8909 thanks mate much appreciated and yes Oz futuras so quite a rare wheel they’re 16” wheels but with a 15” face in all honesty the car drives way better on 16s even when I fitted my cossie wheels however the smaller wheels just look a bit lost in them arches plus it’s very prone to smacking the splitter and I haven’t even adjusted the height from the 17’s so I’ll be rebuilding them and finally going away from white wheels on this car although they do look good haha
@@6uiltdifferent ya there a rare set of wheels I did run a set of 16s when I first bought my st150 bk in 2021 now I run the Kahn cosworth wheels in satin black reason why I ask is I’d like to run a set of series 1 rs wheels but there 15x6 but then the footprint would be small has the 7.5 I run now suits the car if I could find a set or rs wheels prob run them on chunkier tyre not sure if a 205/50/15 wheels would fit would fill the arches plus comfier ride has the elastic band tyres I run at the moment feels every bump in the road n pot holes u know the score bad ain’t the word 205/40/17
@@shaungowler8909 yeah s1 wheels will be a bit too small unless you got them modified to suit but that’s a lot of £££ and yeah low profile tyres you feel a lot I’ve gotten used to it now haha
Had mine nearly 3 years now and didn't know about this. Always thought these just had spongey brakes although I've heard braided lines helps. Will need to give this a try at some point!
They wont once you do this that’s for sure There’s too many to list mate best off plugging in and having a play can also programme instrument clusters if you bought another one to Change the colour of the lights (I also show how to correct the mileage with another programme) the main one is powerfold mirrors which is what everyone wants on their car I have videos on how to do all this
This mod is 👌👌👌. The Mk6 Fiesta and Ford Figo Mk1 are very similar and usually share some parts. Does anybody know whether a strut brace that fits in a the Mk6 Fiesta will fit in a Mk1 Figo?
@@6uiltdifferent I thought I would put this here incase anyone else has the same problem. I’ve figured it out you need to enter service mode then open and close each door and listen for the indication to come on to confirm the door has shut correctly I will paste the instructions I followed below Activate service mode Proceed as follows to activate service mode: • OPERATE the switch of the heated rear window and HOLD IT THERE • Turn on the ignition. • RELEASE the switch of the heated rear window • PRESS the heated rear window switch 8 times within 6 seconds A signal sounds and the direction indicator lamps come on to indicate that service mode has been successfully activated. • NOTE: If the alarm sounds (in vehicles fitted with an anti-theft alarm system), service mode cannot be activated. For reference I have a 2002 ghia 1.6 and I don’t have a digital dash so there’s no way of seeing which door is stuck open. I’ve ordered a new lock assembly and fingers crossed all goes well NOTE: the door ajar has to be actively in fault for you to narrow down which door it is so it may be worth writing down the service mode instructions and placing them inside your car.