This channel covers OUTSIDE THE BOX THINKING for shop related modifications to speed processes and gain insight to modify, tweak, adjust and/or fabricate tools and fixtures for YOUR PERSONAL SHOPS NEEDS! Professionally I've been a prototype engineer since 1980 and I'm always looking for a better way to do absolutely everything! I'll go over shop tools and show how you can benefit from hundreds of tips/accessories/fixtures that some may never even heard of! I'd bet anything you'll find TOTALLY NEW usable tips/tricks on this channel! These are MY PERSONAL tweaks/ideas for my shop. We'll THINK SMARTER together to be better faster more accurate AND Safer!
I did something a little similar, i took the shopvac crevice tool and made a jig to hold it with some strong magnets so the end of the tool is right up next to the blade on the underside of the table. It doesn't get everything, but it gets probably 90+% of the dust and took like 5 minutes to make.
So glad this showed up. Getting tired of all the dust on my bandsaw and have been researching how to eliminate. Lots of ideas I can incorporate to my solution. Why reinvent the wheel? Thank you so much!
I have an X5 unifence that I love. The original rail was getting chewed to pieces by the locking handle(on the inside). This video helped me get it all back together and running like a champ. Many thanks for taking the time to make these videos. It was super helpful.
The fence works sooooo much smoother after a few tweaks! Wish I had known and done this back in 1990. Wrestled with it not locking instantly/smoothly for the last time lol. Thanks for the comment!
this is my first unisaw/unifence I used my Father’s Jet lock/ tubular fence on his old TS. I had no idea how this even worked. This was the perfect video! Going to finish the refurb tomorrow and hopefully have my first solid locking fence. The jet lock never was solid. Oh it is possible to mount the locking lug(?) facing the wrong way ?
If it goes together it should be right due to the offset roll pin hole. Just check the fit last to assure yourself it locks properly before you powerup the blade. Thanks for the visit!!
Picked up an older Unisaw and the fence would not properly disengage from the rails; it had to be slid out at the end. After watching your video I figured out I needed to replace the ball bearing and spring. It works perfectly now. Thanks for the help.
At 2:13 you can see a reflection indication of the roll size and its more than enough to force engagement. Use a fine file and keep the edges flat while rounding them. You don't want any file marks or sanding marks leftover when your done. If the edges are nice and flat and smooth, engagement will also be smooth. FYI, rough edges are not good for the inside of your fence rail extrusion so sand smooth and you'll be rewarded with how nice it works now.
Hope you are doing well, Joe. Also hope you aren't feeling burnt out from putting out so many videos so quickly. It was awesome getting so much information so quickly, but it's hard to maintain that output. Most of the channels that I subscribe to put out a video a week. Easy to create that level, without burning out. Thank you for the knowledge shared so far, anticipating more quality content from you.
Wow Raymond, nail on the head! Back was bad for about a week and the numbers fell like a rocket sled to hell! Apparently I can't vacation or do anything else? This is not for me when screw tube decides to drive everything into the ground before my back issue happened. I had 250,000 views going on in a week then the plummet into the toilet as I disappeared from the main feed. And burnt out can't explain it, it's worse as your every waking moment revolves around screw tube and I've had enough of that. I hit the videos hard to make a channel quickly and give all of you a good sampling of what to expect...8,230hrs of watch time for 200.00 is a punch in the face and a kick in the boys IMO. Not sure if I'll come back to this...Thanks!!!
@@joesshop3622 Sorry to hear about your back, hope it's just muscle aches and nothing more serious. It's sad that your efforts haven't resulted in decent revenue for you. I understand why most of the worst content creators have turned to prostituting their feeds as product advertisements. Thank you for not doing so. I greatly appreciate your style, quick videos without five minutes of promotion and begging to like, subscribe, and mash the notification bell and video highlights. Simple and to the point. I fast forward through most of the feeds that do those things and I know I'm not alone. There are other ways we can support you. Join options and patreon come to mind. I have unsubscribed from many channels that started out great like yours and transitioned to only doing videos to fulfill their product sponsors instead of their audience. Maybe analyze the intent of doing videos. If to teach and share knowledge, please keep doing so, and rely on us for financial support (like AvE). We appreciate the effort and the knowledge. If primary for income, well... Motivation drives output which generally leads to fulfilling product sponsors and advertisers before the interests of viewers. If you can do so without losing trust and respect of viewers by calling out crap sponsored products. Too many are afraid of losing sponsors and betray the audience. One video a week is a good metric, based on the output of the successful creators that I subscribe to. Maybe five minutes of content, I'm guessing an hour or two of production. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It really is appreciated. I hope you continue and find success.
@@raymondmiller4981 Thanks much Raymond. Much appreciated commentary! I'd never ever ask for $ yet I'm so broke I can't afford to pay attention, literally. Motorcycle pickup T-bone sent me flying 65' in 1991. Back nowadays is unreliable so I thought I'd try "YouScrewed" It's sad creators are put through their sieve of nonsense and lies.
Best wishes to you Joe. I have been yearning to see more of you but had no idea about your pain. I’m right there with you in the same battle. I have enjoyed every one of your videos. You have a tremendous amount of talent, knowledge and a great friendly personality to go with. Take care of yourself and I hope you can keep your channel alive in some way.
Great video! I'll definitely be doing that tune up ,I just bought a Platinum Edition Unisaw what's the difference between that and the regular edition? Thanks for any info
@@joesshop3622It has been awhile, but it just came up one day. I have been planning on doing them, but kept putting it off. I needed to have them working good for the project I am working on so decided it was time. Again, thank you for the tip.
FYI, the heat generated doing this at the wrong feed and/or speed can cause work hardening! Usually lower than normal speed with slightly faster feed rate is better. Thanks!
One must not forget stones smear or wear away material while making lots of heat and uneven surfaces but they can't cut anything in reality. They also leave a finish that's poor. I prefer a smooth even radially true 90°edge that's ready for paint so I thought I'd share...
Different tools have different purposes, of course. I respect yours, but when I need to takeoff material fast, I use the grinder wheel. As for surfaces and “pretty,” You get a fabulously beautiful finish with a “surface grinder” I have several in storage right now that I am about to sell.
@@joesshop3622 Different tools have different purposes, of course. I respect yours, but when I need to take off material fast, l use the grinder wheel. As for surfaces and "pretty," You get a fabulously beautiful finish with a "surface grinder" I have several in storage right now that I am about to sell.
Exactly, the T approach won't work. Almost every older saw is of the "screw type" design. A perfect use for a tool that has no quick change and has that dreaded plug in leash.
Back 50 years ago I used to be the official flashlight and tool holder for my dad. I remember every time he finished working on a car he would get out the 1 gallon gas can and clean all his tools from wrenches to ratchets. In the winter he would bring them inside to clean them and my mom would get made about the odor. Cleaning tools in the living room was okay just not with gas. I have never heard of blastitol .
Wow a blast from the past! I remember cleaning mini bike parts and roller chains in a coffee can with gas. A tad dangerous with standing pilots back in the day...
Years ago I worked in and ran the model shop at a company that folded after 6 years. All my company tools were sold at auction. ALL the model shop tools went for a premium because all of them looked bran new. Full size mill, 20" planner, spindle sander, routers all did really well for the bank. I bought my custom ordered PVI vac former for 1/4 price with 40 hrs. on it. lol. It then paid for itself in less than 2 weeks.
Ballistol is primarily a mineral oil that easily emulsifies in water. It might be worth trying a mix of mineral oil, water, and a drop or two of dish detergent in comparison.
Wow! That’s a killer finding Joe. I have a few stainless steel squares and steel 123 blocks that I have to maintain with some light gun oil and Scotch pads to keep them from rusting. To use Ballistol on the plastic isn’t something that I have gave thought to.
Try this on your blocks. Clean them good then heat them super warm (hair dryer high temp till you can't hold them) and spray them right away with silicone. Wipe with a dry paper towel AFTER cooling. Heat opens just enough porosity to let in the silicone and... you know the rest.
I always raise the blade as high as it will go! Additionally, the tightening of the nut is always opposite/counter to the rotation of the blade...helps keep the nut tight even if there is slight initial slippage!!!
Vix bits are awesome tools for the workshop. I’ve had mine for almost 30 years now and they still work great. I wouldn’t want to install a piano hinge without one. 😂
It seems every time somebody new stops by they ask what they are or what they're for...So this video was born lol. Mine are also older from the early 80's and only one of six bits needed a new drill...due to um...an endo. THANKS again!
As others have stated this is brilliant! New life for my old weller gun and the scrap romex I told my wife I needed to keep as it would come in handy some day.
I know this sounds like a strange question but the screws that hold the capacitor to the motor, what should one be looking for when those need to be replaced? I acquired a bandsaw with an old Delta motor without the screws holding down the capacitor. So I really don't have something I can compare to. I understand the screw shaft diameter is important, but isn't the length important too?
I use to have one you could literally pull half a car inside of it in the garage for 30 years. 200AMPS just to turn it on! Ordered it from PVI with a massive 250 gallon tank. Freakin' riot, virtually automated, except the guy pushing buttons. It would get so hot in the summer 140°+ I built a tiny cardboard hut by the control panel that had its own air conditioning. That was MAD LOL!
@@joesshop3622 I need to bring my gas remote buggy into store for the older fella there to look at. Might be lost cause after sitting so long. Remaking the plastic shell would be fun.
You have not fitted your blade guard. Essential safety for a table saw. Sixty thousand of your countrymen injure themselves on table saws every year. Most would be saved if they did not remove safety equipment. Not using a guard is bad. Showing others that you do not is worse.
Please see my video Deluxe Table Saw Sir...I've got it covered. I'm a freak show about my safety for more than 45 years on table saws up to 8hp and 16". Many configurations of "safety" cause the accidents, mostly during small part operations I do the most of.
@@joesshop3622 Not in this video- I can see it, not covered. And your advice for 'if you don't have a riving knife' should be 'fit one before using the saw'.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop One might assume the vacuum snout with 10 rubber capped hold down wheels flanking the blade and 3 riving pins would be satisfactory supplements? Those wheels really mitigate a lot of other issues too. Thanks much for the concern Sir, safety is paramount, with this tool especially!
Thanks for the tips. My unifence has been working great since I bought the unisaw 52inch new in 2000. Saving the video for reference when I do need it.
If you don't have a riving knife, you can set your fence to the edge of the wooden insert, and run a kerf (you need another insert) back to the kerf in your insert, and glue a piece of material in it. If you have a thinner blade than your regular, you can center a smaller slot that the blade. This used to be a common method for making a riving knife when saws didn't have them. The one problem is you need to be sure that your home made insert won't lift out of the saw. So whatever system your saw uses to hold the insert in place, you need to be sure it isn't just gravity, and you are sure all is good, even if you add this feature to it.
I have analyzed your RU-vid channel and found out some problems. Your video title and video quality very good but you have some problems for did not get more views. if you want I will fixed that problem. Do you want to talk about it for a while?
Thanks Delo! Click bait won't be found HERE! My aim is to make it short as I can to bump the value per min. Who want's filler? I'm monetized but won't pull that. Everybody hates that so you'll see most videos are short and to the point... unless there's a lot to cover. Like Deluxe Table Saws 67 secrets.
We determined this to be true years ago when installing casing around a window. The nail would deflect into the finished side of the jamb and make a mess. What was worse, when you have PVC windows and jambs and the brad would blow out a chunk of the PVC. So difficult to repair.
Now I'm thinking of making an extra long, slightly tapered riving knife for my saw in addition to the little 2.5" wide one I commonly use. You are a font of continuing inspiration!
