Restoration work, Triumph Spitfire, Welding ,Bodywork, spray painting, making my own body panels. I'v only been making video's for a few month's now, but i'm trying to give a little more of a light hearted approach yet educational, showing you how these job's are done but at the same time making thing's fun and enjoyable to watch, taking away all those boring bit lol, I'd love for you to come along and watch this Journey
Hi Steve. Thanks for the video. Gave me some inspiration as I've just bought a Spit that needs the wood veneer replaced as well. In addition to Kristen's observations brush from the inside to the edge, not edge in. This will stop you getting buildup at the edges and runs down the sides. For the small holes etc, how did you remove the veneer there?
Thank you for showing people while you work. It's helping me as I figure out the work process I will be taking when I start moving my Spitfire from the back burner. Is the copper paint to help corrosion from moisture seeping in ?
@@RectalRooter hey there sorry for the delay in return message life's real busy right now, real pleased your enjoying my videos, the copper paint is for two reasons one it's a great rust preventor and secondly far less of it is burnt off from the reverse side of any panel your welding into position, as it has a very high heat tolerance .
@@stevesgarage1976 I wasn't sure youtube would show my comment on old videos. Thanks for commenting back 👍 The copper is an interesting idea. I did not think of using it that way.
Thanks for the video Steve. I am about to make a rotisserie for my MK4. Can you tell me what was the distance between the 2 cross members that are attached to the car and their respective pivot points please?
Hey, just wanted to say thanks, the last two bolts were hidden under some Dynamite on my car but this video helped me cut out the right spots and find them. You're awesome!
Hey Steve how have you been? Fall is officially here in mid-Michigan. I am slow but steady with my 1967 Spitfire. I wish to remove the body from the chassis; my question is before I do can I remove the fuel tank or is the fuel tank contributing to the structural rigidity of the body? Thanks again
Hey there Paul apologies for my late reply, life's been rather busy for me, Yes go ahead and take the fuel tank out as it doesn't offer any strength to the tub, I wish you all the best for your project, I'm looking for a new workshop right now due to a house move, once settled again, my channel will come back to life
What kind of welder did you use? I have a 1967 spitfire Mk3 and as I was taking out the interior I found floor patch work done in fiberglass. What do you recommend my next step be? Thank you Paul
Hi there Paul, well first of all i wouldn't hold back from cutting right back to steel thats thick enough to weld too, i use a Mig Welder, power set to anywhere between 16-22 depending on the thickness of the steel, and of course your welding style, gas set to about 7.5 bars, you can't beat been major prepped, nice clean steel will give you a nice clean weld mate
@@paulgonic1975 i take it your talking about gassless Mig, as flux core is what a mig would use, Mig welders can be gas or gassless, although the weld with gassless is not as clean or strong
In Germany the Greens implemented a BABVVO law FOR ALL COMBUSTION VEHICLES FROM 2024! According to what has been said, this means that every combustion engine is only used for commuter trips and certified transport trips. The TEBBVO, the Federal Transport Tourism Emission Restriction Ordinance, then applies to commercial vehicles!
Hey there Steve good to hear from you, yeah thought it was about time i put another video out, just the weather over here has been aweful, might look at heating the garage for the spitfire
Top stuff Steve, the most amazing thing to me is your ability to work with gaffer tape and not completely lose your sh*t, it's an achievement I'm yet to unlock. Lol.
Chuckle , Cheers Paul, yeah the idea was to build this from just the stuff i had laid about, the only thing i had to buy was the fan's so the whole set up cost me less than £60 lol, pleased you enjoyed the video mate
Hi there Steve, I've just found your channel and have to say thanks for recording and posting this series. I am currently saving up to by a 1970's spitfire for a restoration project (I will be after a driving example that would benefit from a full restoration) so this is excellent material for me! I will probably follow your example and record and upload to my RU-vid channel when I start and include mistakes and all! I have a quick question as I see this is video 1 in the series, how did you separate the body and chassis, did you have to use a lift or is it easy with a couple of people to just lift it off once the interior and engine are removed? 🙂 Kind regards Aspie_Geek_UK (Paul)
Looks good, well done. That may be rosewood, and it may be from Brazil, but I doubt it is dalbergia nigra, true Brazilian rosewood. Many reasons to include that it is banned by CITES as endangered and illegal for export or import and sale. . . and It looks nothing like dalbergia nigra the true brazilian rosewood. It looks more like dalbergia spruceana also known as Amazon rosewood. Full disclosure, formerly a broker of rare and exotic wood specializing in timbers used in stringed instrument construction. The majority of my wood was from Brazil and Central America. Among them was Brazilian rosewood (dalbergia nigra) for guitar construction and pernambuco also from Brazil and used in violin bows.
Hi there Jeff that's very informative thankyou, the Veneer was just chosen from a well known online shopping platform, as Brazilian Rosewood as I liked the depth of colour, and as you point out it's rarity , I was more than likely sold a wood which could be described with the same wording, Thankyou for your interesting comments, Really pleased you enjoyed the Vudeo, iv often thought of doing this video again as it's one if my very early ones, and much has improved since then
Hey there Ivan, there's a lot of different thoughts on this, most people restoring weld in this way due to the heat damage and panel distortion caused though welding like you mention, by welding in this way I'm not keeping the heat in one place to long , it's not that I can't run a welding line just that I choose not too, maybe I'm been a little to careful, but just for you il weld a complete run in-between the spots that hold everything in place lol
@@stevesgarage1976 you are right,the heat will cause the steel to bend a bit. I didnt think about that... and i was working with stainless steel for 10 years. :D we used to "support" the welded parts with stronger and thicker parts of steel that also worked as a "heat sponge",but that is a lot easyer on the stuff i worked with plus the minimal thiknes of steel i used to work with was 2 milimeters and that react to heat a bit diferently then the "paper" you are using for restoratuon. ;) Btw,you have hair now? How come? :D
Its great to see you back Steve! I had to tackle much of the same rust in the boot pan area on my car. It is nice to get that all welded up and know that you won't have to worry about it again anytime soon.
