Thanks for the detail. I have a 1st generation iPad that died. Took to Apple store and an Apple repair place and they said they could not repair it. I could not figure out how to remove the screen from the casing, so your detail and careful attention to detail is greatly appreciated.
Loved this tutorial. My problem is that I can’t get my lid to shut. Any help you can provide on figuring out why it won’t stay shut would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
When you say it doesn't shut, do you mean the lid doesn't close all the way, or it doesn't lock in the bottom position? If the former, then it is likely lid hinge (outside the lid) is broken (plastic parts). If the latter, it is likely latch mechanism inside the lid, and there is a good chance that it is not completely broken, but parts are misaligned. If you disassemble it and reassemble it, it might work again without re-fabricating any of the parts.
Wow that lid has such poorly-chosen materials for the latch-spring mechanism. A heroic effort to repair on your part! Perhaps a sheet of thin stainles or copper going around the back to both pivots would work. Pity the company doesn't offer an updated part under warranty. Imagine tens of thousands (millions??) of these going into landfill💀
I agree, with a few spare parts (not to mention slightly better design) a lot of appliances could lead a much longer life. Lid problems are not even the worst ones here, at least these can be reasonably worked around if you're handy. But the parts that are in contact with actual food (well, water here), e.g., level indicator, are almost impossible to repair properly, but could be trivially replaced if parts were available... :(
I haven't seen this specific model, but from what I've seen from Acer laptops with similar model numbers the internals are usually quite similar. So it is quite likely that there is disconnect switch on that model as well.
Just bought a 4 1/2" grinder and a bunch of flap disks last night, got home, and had the sloppy fit. Assuming I screwed up and bought the wrong parts, I figured I best search the issue first. RU-vid University to the rescue again! Thanks for the video - this saves me a trip back to the store.
When you unplug the battery and check the voltage it is dead so what does kill switch have to do with that, another question what is that ribbon wire that goes from one end of the hard drive to the other, it has a right angle at the end.
The battery is NOT dead, I am talking about it around 22:51+. That's why measuring smart batteries at the connector is not reliable - in this case, unless BMS sees grounded trip wire (orange), it does not send any power out, even though the cells are fully charged. . The ribbon cable connects a daughterboard with the power button (and a couple of ports) to the main board.
Softwares updates that the biggest problem with these old GPS devices softwares.I have an old GPS 300 maestro that the hardware works fine but it software have glitches.Likes lacking of loading on times problems with that are end up happening are missed turned properly or doesn’t giving you those streets on times properly where are going have never been there before.
That's fair. Don't think I've ever had issue with software per se, but if you can't update maps (and it is often the case for older devices), then you can certainly get in trouble if there were some road changes, or in newly built areas that are simply not there.
No, haven't tried that. Contact terminals for that would be on the back side of the mainboard, so not sure how useful that would be even if you'd be able to power it (unless you're OK to run in out-of-case mode). Also skeptical if that would run at all, batteries normally have more functions than just supplying power. Usually there is data bus/HDQ and thermal data pins, though I don't remember if these are in the original iPad.
Much appreciated. Got my son's surface back up and running with a new 2TB ssd as well as a new "FLAT" battery. Don't think I could have done this without someone like you!
I replaced ed two batteries on two surface pro 4 laptops and they all say battery not detected. they both switch on with ac power but when not plugged in they do not turn on.
This happens, unfortunately, especially with aftermarket batteries. First thing I'd check if the battery cable is seated properly. If no issues there (likely, as you can run on AC), then you can try to do hard reset, which goes something like this: . - Power off - Hold Volume Up and the Power button for 15 seconds. The Surface logo screen may flash, but continue to hold for 15 seconds. - Release the buttons - Wait 10 seconds - Power on the Surface . Also, while on AC, check if battery device shows up under Device Manager in Windows.
Mandatory disclaimer: don't try to operate on visibly puffed up batteries, this is unsafe etc. So the short answer is no. The long answer is also probably no ;) The thing is, I have try to resuscitate puffed up batteries on several occasions, and while they did not blow up in my face (but see disclaimer above), in every single case the cells were pretty much useless. Even if I managed to force them to accept charge, internal self-discharge was so rapid that as soon as I removed charging leads, the battery was draining in a matter of minutes (even without load). On top of that, for the most mobile devices with LiPo batteries you usually cannot even place them inside the case after they puff up enough. So realistically, if it is significantly puffed up - dispose of it. But if it just puffs a little bit it may work out just fine. Pretty much all LiPo cells that were used for some time, even the ones that work just fine, would look a little puffed.
Hello, first of all congratulations on the video! I was looking for some tutorial to revitalize the battery on my iPad a1337. I would like to know if it is possible to apply this procedure without disassembling the iPad, that is, using the standard iPad connector. My question is because I found it very difficult to disassemble the device as you demonstrated in the other video. Thanks!
Usually not, because the battery cells connect to the charging circuit that needs to be bypassed. The closest you can get is to keep plugged the device for a few days without turning it on, and hope that it will trickle-charge to a level where it will start charging in a regular fashion. But chances of this working like that are not very high.
I would not use the 5/8 grinder disk, you should use 7/8 for this grinder. The 5/8 threads are not going to center a 5/8 grinder disk. The only 5/8 you shoulod be using is the ones that thread on.
Thick surface grinding wheels would center just fine on 5/8 threads. Not sure about thin cutoff discs, but you're not supposed to use these anyway with this grinder due to the guard being open.
Yeah, unfortunately these are pretty fragile. Especially if you try to pry, and corners in particular. Metal/plastic pieces can take quite a bit of force, but glass parts can only bend very little, and then shatter :(
Same thing, the battery type AC14B8K was stuck at 80% on an Acer model (Acer A515-41G) it has a switch for the bottom case to press it, so the battery will be working just fine after full reassembled laptop. The switch is near the RAM memory and is marked as DIP SWG1. The switch will be pressed by the RAM door access cover.
With other brands I didn’t encountered this thing but this Acer stayed for like 2 days on the bench only for me to figure out what is wrong with the battery 🤦🏻♂️ and when I wanted to give it back to the client with the status of dead battery, even if I knew that is was working fine when she brought it to us…. I put it back together and made a final power on test and it worked correctly. I was completely amazed and intrigued and pissed off and happy and felt like a dumb tehnician, all in 1 moment 😁😁😁
I was given an iPad 1st gen... It shows 4.93v, 0.13a, it doesn't move from 0.13a, no backlight or anything. Is it battery or maybe something else? Don't want to spend too much on this device since it's value is very little. Battery is £16 from aliexpress.
It is most likely the battery. If you're familiar with the device, and it used to work fine and then haven't been used in a while, then it is almost guaranteed that it is just a battery issue. Otherwise, it could be something else, but the chances of that are fairly low. Another issue of concern would be just a dead screen, but this is not a case here as you would see a spike in current on boot up / charging. Right now, it is not charging the battery (based on amperage), this is usually a telltale sign of the dead battery.
It's impossible to do such precise handwork with that fast music going on in the background! Would have preferred the walk-through with no music at all, and with closer real-time video of how the little connectors and adhesives come apart. Recommend using an ice cube tray or egg carton for tracking the screws and other small parts in their sequence of removal. Thanks for the video!
Thanks! You can mute sound and change playback speed in the player controls. The video is already pretty long, and if it would be 1x speed everywhere no one ever would click on it ;)
I spent nearly an hour reading Q&A online, still not finding a straight answer. Thankfully Google search suggested your video, and now All my questions have been answered. Thank you so much!!!
It would have been much better had you made a higher quality video, properly photographed,produced and edited. I think your view count would have been substantially better and would have paid off handsomely given that this is a very popular topic amongst RU-vid home repairs. Get someone to operate the camera and you can focus on the job at hand. The video should still come in under 5 minutes.
The way you are boosting these is the exact opposite of what you should be doing to an overdischarged cell. The Samsung datasheets and even the TP4056 module lay out the proper way to handle an overdischarged cell 1. 50mA up to 2.50-3.00v. It can take a while after 2.50v so if that’s the minimum of the cell then you can increase the current once you hit that point to 250mA or something like 0.1C max 2. Check to see if the cell holds voltage at 2.50v. If not, it’s self discharging too fast to risk going further. 3. Don’t charge all the way up to 4.20v. Stop somewhere after nominal just to do another self discharge check. 4. If it’s still holding voltage then continue a relatively low current charge to 4.10 or 4.20v. Up to you but I prefer to stop at 4.10v and let them sit. Paralleling cells with a voltage difference is a big no no. It’s good that you aren’t using a full charged cell but the currents you could be injecting into the lower cell can be immense. Thankfully those alligator clip leads are often made with tiny wire and offer tons of resistance but you could still be causing a momentary 5A or more to enter an overdischarged cell. I’ve tested cells at 3V and 4V and using 14AWG wire it would initially start out at 20A before trailing off to 5,4,3A but that’s still wayyy more than any cell should be charged with.
First of all, thanks for contributing! I am not sure though why are you saying that what I am doing is the exact opposite of what should be done. When I refer to boosting, I am strictly talking about fooling my smartcharger to accept the cell into pre-charge cycle, which has a cutoff of around 1.5V (don't remember exactly). Once charger accepts the cell, actual charging happens pretty much along the same lines that you posted (precharging with 0.15A till 3V, then switching to a regular charging program as specified), and has nothing to do with the booster cell. Now, while stopping along the way at 2.5V, 4.1V etc for intermediate testing might be fine if you're working with a few cells, but no way I am doing that for several dozens or hundreds cells manually ;) If I'd have a custom charging circuit that would incorporate that logic that would be fine, but no standard chargers that I know of (including RC3000) support that. So it's just not very practical. . Now, paralleling cells is definitely not something that generally should be done, you're right about that. I believe I do talk about it (though maybe in a different video). Now, for the purpose of showing up some voltage on the charger terminals ideally I'd just use a current-limiting power supply, with something like 2V and very low amperage limit, but I didn't have one handy (the lowest I could go was 1A, which was too much IMO). Hence this almost dead cell was used as a voltage booster for a few seconds. So that cell had slightly above 2V (?) to begin with, so no way even with no-resistance leads it would be outputting multiple amps, and you're also right that these leads wouldn't support that either (tested that before). I am pretty sure I even measured short circuit current on the booster cell, and it was pretty low. So while it was certainly not the most robust setup I admit, it was not as bad as you may think :)
Generally, no. I am sure there are some exceptions out there, but for the most parts cell phones and laptops require somewhat working battery to work, even when all you want to do if use AC power. Battery doesn't need to hold any charge, but is needed to complete the power circuit.
Seems like every rookie new to this angle Grinder thing has these 5/8 7/8 problems at the beginning until we get the hang of it, Question is there an adapter to extend the grinder out past the guard so I can sand some Ruff paint off my garage while holding the grinder flat against the wall
You don't need an adapter, you just need a right cup wheel, e.g. similar to what you can see in the thumbnail (this is for concrete and not paint stripping, but it works flat on the surface). Cut-off wheels (the ones you use on the edge) are not supposed to be used with these types of 4.5" grinders because their regular guards are not designed to cutoff wheels. But for cup wheels that shouldn't be an issue, that's what these grinders are designed for, you just need to find the right wheel for your application. . Or if all you want to do is to strip some loose paint (instead of sanding the wall), you may simply go with some kind of wirebrush, this should do the trick.
It's unlikely to be worth much, even at sentimental value :) You can try to find someone local to help you out if for some reason you _really_ want 1st gen to be repaired...
For as long as the new battery is going to function. This depends on battery, usage patterns etc. Can easily be several years if everything goes according to plan, which will probably exceed usable life of the device anyway. If not, replacing it the second time is a much easier procedure (unless you hardglued screen back in :) )
Thank you for sharing this! Silicon tape and steel mesh are awesome tools I didn’t know about. Inspired me to replace the leaky water level indicator with a silicon straw lol. I think the material they use for the indicator isn’t good enough for this purpose. It eventually cracks and leaks (if I’m not mistaken yours is also showing signs of cracking on the inside).
Yep, you're correct, clear plastic used in the level indicator deteriorates over time (I am sure contact with boiling doesn't help). It starts to develop microfractures which eventually leak :(
Thanks for the video! Made better sense than the other two vids I watched on it. Found the perfect angle grinder for me today, had it in my hands and went to buy the discs, they were all 7/8, the grinder was 5/8. Thought well damn, thats about worthless if I cant buy disks for it. Ill be going back tomorrow to go get it. Again hahaha
I have one that is not powering on. When I plug it, the apple logo appears for a brief second. What do you suggest I do to get it up and running again?
@@cwmoriarty Unfortunately, most modern devices require somewhat functional battery, even when running off AC. Now, the battery might be completely depleted (close to zero max capacity), that would work. But no battery, or damaged battery (e.g., short on BMS) usually prevents running off mains...
@@cwmoriartyyou can run it through power supply, i used alligator clips to just try to run it and test before i bought new batteries. It was three 1st gen ipads from my customer btw 😉
PLEASE HELP!!! I replace the batery an now the touch screen not working, and the ipad looks like a factory reseted ipad. dont know what to do. Thanks in advance!!!
Touch screen not working (assuming it worked before) is most likely digitizer cable not connected properly. Check it out, digitizer cable is a flat ribbon cable on the left side of the mainboard (if looking top side with screen removed), it needs to be fully inserted into the socket (all the way to the white line on the ribbon) and then latched up in the socket. If it is not fully inserted/latched, touch won't work on all or parts of the screen. . As to why it looks like factory reset, I am not sure. Battery replacement alone shouldn't reset anything, unless you have done something else as well.
@@JustMakeItNow Sorry if I bother again, but now the ipad tells me Activation required... when I activate it, it tells me that it could not be activated
Assuming you don't have your account locked, you can try iPad reset, network settings reset (then connect to WiFi) or you can try to activate via iTunes. Normally, one of these methods should work. If it is not your iPad (e.g. bought second-hand) that you don't know Apple ID for, then it is a different story.
@@JustMakeItNow I tried that, and it works with an external monitor, the touch function works and the tablet works fine wit the external monitor. the tablet display lights up when powering on but is blank. It's not cracked. I check the display drivers all look good so I'm not sure what to do now.
Well, most of the tablet works, so that's a good sign ;) In your case it is most likely one of two things: either internal display cable is not seated properly in its socket, or the panel itself is dead. Just because it is not visibly cracked and digitizer works doesn't mean LCD panel is functional. I'd open up the case, try to reseat display cables and see if that helps. If not, replace the panel as the hard part (opening up) is already done.
I don't have a link anymore, it was quite a while ago. But you usually can find these on AliExpress (very cheap, but slow delivery), or on eBay if you're in North America (not cheap on per unit basis, but not a huge deal if you only do a single device and want faster delivery).
Sort of. Screen is off successfully, but wow that antenna array is designed to be destroyed on removal! £20 for a new assembly and £36 for a new battery and I should have a fully working surface pro 4 once again.
Ha, I know what you mean! Before you splurge on new antenna strips, check if you can simply straighten them up. Unless you straight up cut/tear them on removal, these are just foil strips, if they're just bunched up you can unfold them back.
@@JustMakeItNow unfortunately it’s toast. The best advice i would give others is get a sharp knife and cut as close to the display assembly as you can. That black glue is sticky and horrible
A bit of useful info for anyone who has this same problem. My issues were identical but i had the laptop off for several months. I charged it for about an hour with it on. Laptop said "255%" full. So something was going wrong. I ran the latest chipset installation directly from acer download page. Then restarted. Removed power cable and tried again, nothing. Repeated twice more (without changing anything else other than letting it charge between attempts) and it eventually worked. So in conclusion, it is worth checking your chipset driver and leaving the laptop of charge for about an hour before opening anything up. EDIT: My laptop now reads normal battery charge levels, now at 20% and charging and works off mains power.
Thanks, it is indeed true that after deep discharge of the battery (e.g. off for months) it might be difficult to bring it back to normal operations and will likely require some resuscitation steps (and even that might not work). So try these steps first!
I had it on the lowest setting - 100C, though the source temperature is not that important. The important part is how hot your screen surface gets, that's why I was constantly checking it with my hand. You can go higher temps, this means you have to reduce heat application time. IIRC screen panels get permanent damage at about 80-100C, depending on screen technology (LCD, OLED).
