These are the Wharfedale "Dalesman" and were released in 1972 along with the first versions of the Linton and Dovedale. They were suitable for amplifiers with an output impedance of 8 to 15 ohms, had a power handling of 15 watts RMS and a frequency response of 30 to 15000 Hz. They are very efficient, as were all of the Wharfedale models of the era. The external trim on some may vary as they were also sold in kit form. They are now quite rare as they didn't take off the way the Linton and Dovedale did. I have been a Wharfedale collector (in Australia) for many years and I have never laid eyes on any over here. Gilbert Briggs made a point of marketing his products in a big way in the USA to the detriment of other countries, mainly because of his limited manufacturing capabilities at the time.
Radio Shack was a Division of the Tandy Corporation and their "house brand" of stereos were branded REALISTIC! The STA-700 is a good looker indeed with its black front trimmed with white fonts and a nice low profile! The STA-700 is rated at 12 watts PC RMS which is plenty of power especially for small listening areas. Like lots of Realistic stereos from the "VINTAGE" area the STA-700 has a nice warm sound! Thank you for your nice video presentation of the Realistic STA-700!
Just picked up the same Toshiba receiver yesterday 130 dollars haven't had time to play with it yet but love the look of it. What do you think of yours
I like mine, but I had to get a dust cover so 150.00 into it. Came with a Shure M75. Just needed a basic tune up. I like how the platter looks thicker than the plinth.
Basically a Nakamichi BX150. Same heads, transport and electronics. Same quality audio and recording capability. UDAR makes this RX unique though and of course more collectible. I own an RX505, a higher end 3 head Nak deck. And a beauty to behold.
I bought the kenwood stack with the KM992 AMP(120watts) that came with the beautiful speakers LS P9300👍🏻 then about 2 weeks later I guy sold this same unit with a turning table and a small speakers, then I use phone for the table and AUX an IPAD Spotify etc.. so, maybe I don’t know much about it but..the KA3500 when using the Spotify I find a. It more clear up front, vol 3. 3.5 or 4ish with bass at +4 it’s pleasant the +6 a bit punhcy but even BASS in flat, still is good enough. The KA is only 40W, right? The KM992 stack came with CD,cassette and EQ, I can hear the slight difference. But I get the KA only has bass and treble , but yeah I like the sound and I haven’t gone too loud yet, the LS P9300 speakers can take 500Ws and hopefully I can put it to test. But so far I like this KA3500.
one of the best 70´s turntables, from 79 , i have a lot of them but this was one of my favorite for home use either than the PLC-590 ,20 series also from pioneer , a personaqlized SP-1 and a SL-1000MKII also from 79, technics , off course
there is a button on the back of the arm ,on the plinth that if off it doesn´t make auto-return, a lot used the SL-1300 and SL-1500 before the 1200MKII
i still have it all original but the stylus is getting old and don´t know what to do , the new cartridges are totally diferent from what was used till them 90´s, in repeat knob you say ...till 6 times if on the "R" position it repeats endlessly
I have the STA -850 got it at a good price and when it arrived I couldn't believe how good the condition of it was, like brand new, and has a great sound to it. very happy with my purchase.
The rumble spec is what matters to me as well as the while and flutter. This is a direct drive turntable and the rumble figure is -78 decibels. Which is quite a bit better than belt driven turntables and almost as good as the fabulously expensive sl 1200 mark 2.
I have one of these. Recently looking to upgrade even though I got it in May. I want to get a RC 970 and the power amps, eventually I want to get to power amps but I'm going to stay with the 970 series. I really like it. However I need new speakers is amplifier is too nice for a pair of Sony sscs5
I've not yet finished working on my 710D, but I have to say it's a deck I really like. Not perfect, but it is very well made, and no silly unobtainable ICs to worry about. ;o)
Hi again, Just noticed this NAD. I repaired a compleley broken NAD 6040. Both VU meters were disfunctional for a start - their dial loading springs had buckled and so were set at various points. Once the springs have gone, it's 'goodbye' to the meters. I have replaced them with a set of Chinese made VU meters; beggers can't be choosers! ;o)
Strange you said the you can only play one set of speakers at a time, with regards to the remote speakers. This is inaccurate. You cannot turn off the main speakers. You can only turn the remote speakers on and off.
I also have this deck, and have been working on it for nearly a week. What's your opinion on the RW function - does the deck easily rewind from one end of the tape to the other end?
Once it was all cleaned up with new belts it ran smoothly. The belts are sensitive. They do require the exact sizing If they are a touch too wide, tight, or loose you will have issues. Try and source out the exact correct belts.
@@sayhellohello The main drive belt is 88mm diameter, by 5mm wide. It's about 0.5mm/0.55m thick. Measured, it's about 0.25% slow, which is about as good as I'll get it. The RW/FF clutch belt needs to be thick, and so the best I have sourced is 37.5mm diamter, by 1.5mm thick, but not 1.9mm as this is too tight in my opinion. The main clutch at the rear offers too little coefficient of friction, but yes, I've cleaned mine too, and added a new felt pad for the clutch. Yes, it rewinds all the way, but struggles near the end. Why? - the take-up reel table is naturally frictional, it appears to be the way it's been designed. I've opened it up and compare it with the service manual schematics.
@@JamesE707 It is hard to know what is going on without seeing the deck. It should not struggle near the end of the rewind. Ideally, you would want the tape to rewind and fast-forward normally right up until the end of the tape. What I would check is the motor. I do have to qualify myself by stressing that I am not a technician. I have been mentored by a very good professional technician. He has helped me a lot. But, the experience also showed me that I am not a professional technician - just a guy who likes to tinker around with vintage stereo gear. Good luck with it!
@@sayhellohello Thanks for your replies. Well, as it happens I am a semi-retired mathematician and electronics engineer. The problem is not the motor - the motor is not at all stressed by the various loadings. The free-running current is about 162mA, and barely alters through any period during Play/RW/FF. The problem is now only slight, however what causes the slowing down of RW towards the end is *clutch slip*, and it does this for two reasons: coefficient of friction of the rear clutch is not quite high enough, and/or the frictional load offered by the rightmost reel table is quite high. I believe it's a design flaw. I have over 30 cassette decks, and it's not that uncommon that some machines begin to struggle with RW towards the end of the RW run. Sorry if I gave the impression that I was asking for help, I was merely comparing other folk's AKAI machines. Cheers. James.
I meant to add that I have cleaned the rear clutch completely and added new clutch felt, and even 'sandwiched' a little silicone grease to increase slip friction slightly. Yes it works, but not as efficient as FF. Anyway, I am being a bit 'picky', no worries. :o)
I hear so many stories of young Gen Z and millennials - accustomed to ipods and mp3 players - inherit vintage stereo gear from their grandparents, play it, and just love the sound. Converts to analog.
