I'm told you are supposed to remove all the glazing beading, then the glass then you can drill a similar hole where it can't be seen or just bend the frame. Even though I now know all this I still feel more comfortable doing what I did and would do it again before risking glass removal. I'm glad you found it helpful.😊
Thank you Des for this video, it allowed me to fix the saracen lock on the window. But, I have a question. What crazy idiot invents a window lock where you have to virtually destroy the window to fix it?
On these windows it was just a plastic trim cover that clicked into place. So using a small screwdriver I was able to lift the bottom edge and just pull it out by hand. To refit I just push it back and it clicked back in.
Although it works you need to know they get out of any holes you make. If you were to put a plug socket in the wall they will run out of the hole like water.
I just had a similarly stuck window. Turns out that when you open the window mechanism the bolt can be partially retracted and just catching a little. In this case you can just gently pop the window with a small pry bar. Instant fix with no damage.
Ive got the top two mushrooms unlocked but the bottom one is stuck. I managed to do top two because there was flex. Im going to try thr allen key method, where you wedge it in then turn it 90 degrees and pry upwards to get it to push the mushroom
It is a special LED version of an old magic eye sound level meter. It uses 2 different colour LEDs facing each other. It has a built in microphone and reacts to sound and runs on DC power.
Hi Des, very clean and meticulously done repair on what others night have considered a scarp panel. Do you know of anyone in Southern Ontario that does similar type of repairs? I have a 65 MGB that I am struggling to find a competent body shop for.
Sorry I'm in the UK. Is it not worth giving it a go, I originally took the car to a repair shop and was told I would be better off scrapping it so I decided to give it a go, start with a simple straight forward job and you should soon start to get better. The only thing is when you look back at your earlier jobs you wish you had done better. Good luck, Des Acetek
A great explanation that makes an awkward repair practical to do and the templates are very useful. There is now no reason for anyone to bodge this area with filler when a panel can be DIY fabricated in minutes. Thanks for sharing this
Given how expensive new MGB wings are this is a really good use of your time & those skills are with you forever. Interesting, I deleted the fillets when I welded the new rear wings on my MGB roadster, to avoid the rust trap. Just a thin layer of lead to close the gap on one side & on the other the weld was enough. I still have them on the front wings but only because I bought new wings but I will remove them if I need to rework them in future. I’m not a purist & prefer the smooth look & no more rust.
This one as you saw was built by hand, since then I have made 4 more. I knew my limitations so during lockdown I built a CNC router machine to help me develop them. The last one is the best. I hope to get back to it soon.
Hi you know at the rear both sides of a MGB GT you have a raised area. I think you called it a line. What are they actually called, mine needs replacing, are they easy to replace?
I didn't as you can see, however they look a bit like a T section which originally is welded between the inner and outer wing. So if you do replace it I would say it's difficult.
So that’s the only way? I’ve got the same problem but is at the bottom. I could go for it but just afraid to drill the hole and not finding the rod, that would be a shame
No it's not the only way, since posting this video many window professionals have criticized this option say just remove the glass but never show how to do it. If you are unsure check your other windows by removing the plastic cap strip when it's open, that way you can see how it works and then if confident, make a decision whether to call a professional or do it yourself.
If I remember correctly it was an imperial shoulder bolt, the pin was around 8mm so I just upped the size a bit and found 9.5mm. It was really difficult to remove the pin but replacement hinges are too expensive and this was a low cost fix.
good job Des well done & thanks for posting the video. I need to replace my door hinge pins too. it would have been helpful to list a link to the 9.5mm shoulder pins as its an odd size and difficult to source. If you need to do anything similar again I can recommend Carbide drill bits which though expensive are the toughest bar none and last forever. They eat through toughened steel like a knife through butter at slow speeds.
I think you are asking, if I welded it to the rear wing. Yes, I popped a few holes through the wing and welded from the outside of the car to the lip of the boot quarter. Hope this answers your question 🙏 Des
Why didn't you just de glaze and bend it out using a utility bar? You didn't need to damage your frame. This would void any warranty on your frame. I get that you got the job done, but it's not the best advice. Perhaps I should start uploading window repair techniques 😂
Hi Des, I'm currently in the midst of replacing the chassis legs on min and finding a litany of trouble. Decided to replace the boot floor as it patched rusted and seems to be a main component of the rear structure. Good to see the floor welds directly to the valance but did your chsis legs meet the valance? Mine are an inch short of meeting valance. I think it's right but it would be goodto hear yours is similar?
My chassis legs did reach the rear valance, when you took the old legs off you should have needed to drill the valance off at the end of the legs. I may have some footage if you need. Actually on second thoughts the rear valance when I got the car was a complete cover up so I don't think it was attached but still think it needs to be. When measuring up I used the bumper irons in the original rear valance to set height, angel and distance. Once the legs were on I took the original rear valance off to replace the whole rear section of car.
@DesAcetek thanks Des... no the legs fall short of the valance. They must have the valance in the wrong place. I'll have to remove that too and seeing I can work out what they've done.
Brilliant video for us types that like to fix stuff ourselves. This helped me to get my window open. Thank you so much. Now I need to find some new parts. I scoff at the comments saying this is the wrong way without offering any alternative.
I did not see you put in the reinforcement for the jacking location. Did you leave that out or did I miss in in your video? Thank you for the detailed details regarding cutting the metal parts to fit in. I appreciate your step by step narration as you repaired the sill. Good job!
Nice vid. Too bad everything was mounted the wrong way. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xmcaxLzEq6k.html&ab_channel=UniversityMotorsLtd
Good for you, that you sussed it all out, brave to drill a hole - but what choice did you have? I had to do similar in the early hours on a toilet Syphon when the adjuster clip failed, the proverbial or bust time (meant I also had to drill and pin the cast flush lever too - thank goodness for my mini Bosch drill and a couple of buckshee self tapers, as I worked in my PJs! Nice when swmbo gives one chores in the early hours 🙄🙄). To my mind, it's always the cast and pressed parts that seem to fail on window mechanisms (sometimes with very little or just moderate usage) the quality of them seems very poor (even on our mid range, reasonably well specified windows). I'm pondering if they're Pacific Rim made? A conspiracy to make us spend more after a race to the bottom on costs by various buyers on the behalf of shareholder capitalism? Or just shoddy workmanship and materials? Or a conspiracy just to b@gger us up in the west?🤔🤔🤔🤡🌏 Really hard to repair/get at when a gearbox fails on a small, top opening, toplight, type window🤬🤬🙄
@@nigelbeaumont1109 many companies call it plastic padding, try a Google search of those words and you will see here in the UK that term used every where.
Trouble is no one is making a video to help others with this problem of how to do with out drilling. So they what mine. So please make a video of the easy method with no drilling. Thanks in advance.
Very helpful. I've just found a rust hole in the floor at the spring hanger and needed to understand how the panels are constructed and welded. This has answered all my questions. Thanks.
That's great, these videos were more about showing what is involved and if this has helped someone then it's worth the effort. I wish you luck with your project
What you are calling the overflow hose is a drain to empty the carb before storage. You don't want the fuel to age and gum things up. The bottom end of hose extends down far enough to be easy to access from under the bike. The bottom end is opened and closed with a screw. When your hose broke, your carb drained. When you try to start the engine, the fuel goes right out the carb onto the ground. There is an overflow port, but it's near the top of the carb.
If only I knew this before I started taking it apart the first time. This was about 4 year's ago but I always carry a small length of pipe with me now.
Most of the mgb's for sale on Ebay will require major surgery. This car is just so easy to botch up to look fantastic. Any rotten floor, jacking point or sill will certainly require full sill replacement and this is a major job to do. However this is all easily patched and filled to look as good as new. Should be picked up on MOT but often not. I have owned a cheaply bought mgb that was even more horrendous than I first thought and was simply described as having some surface rust. These cars rust from the inside out at a terrific rate and ANY surface rust is going to be serious.
