Nice video thanks for uploading! I'm coming to the end of my GT restoration, still cutting out and replacing odd patches. The car has been "restored" at least twice before, the first time must have been a good one as I've found lead filling in places. The second was over 10 years ago and annoyingly they didn't rust protect anything they did, so many of the patches have disappeared! It still has the original inner sills which are solid, they were treated, probably from new so they haven't rusted at all!
Quick follow-up! I bought myself a cheap spot welder from eBay, it's the same one Clarke etc sell but for only £299. Seems to work well and saves loads of time instead of plug welding and grinding! Not suitable for everything but saves a lot of time when it can be used.
I did not see you put in the reinforcement for the jacking location. Did you leave that out or did I miss in in your video? Thank you for the detailed details regarding cutting the metal parts to fit in. I appreciate your step by step narration as you repaired the sill. Good job!
Wow, I feel so lucky and thankful for this wonderful, clear and detailed video. I am JUST NOW at the exact same point on my 67, with precisely the same problems,, and was a little hesitant to know how to proceed. This video makes me feel a lot more confident. THANKS!! Question: At any point before you proceeded welding in the step sill/rocker/membrane, were you tempted to mount the door just to make sure the gaps all around were good? Also: Is weld thru paint good enough to prevent/slow down future rust? Is there any other coating that might be tougher/better? Thanks again for the great video!
I did brace the door on the other side and had a laser on it and I found nothing moved when I had to remove it for some reason. So this side I didn't bother. Weld through spray definitely slows down rust because if you don't use it, it will rust so quickly. I used Frost weld through as it seems the best to me
