I'll Say This Much. Old Thunderbolts ALWAYS had starting problems. My Grandfather had an old '81 Model 800. It Almost became a Gag. It's Like "She Always Has Problems but She Always Runs". Personally I Find It Gives 'em Charm.
@@NorthernEXpeditions my man I am just having such a hard time with my 850. I finally got it running, but it just seems to bog out. I can have it full throttle on the river, but it’s not zippy or anything like it should be I have no idea what’s wrong.
That is exactly what mine is doing one click from the starter solenoid each time i turn the key, bought a new inside wiring harness installed, same thing one click, got a new starter solenoid coming in the mail but i really suspect it is my wiring job at the ignition switch, i think i got it wrong and i can't find a dang diagram for my year/serial number 1969 650 four cylinder
Helpful video. I'm starting in on a '77 Merc 500...rotted wire harness. BTW...at 1:39...what is that? I assume diaphragm for vacuum powered fuel pump....
Which prop pitch and which prop are you running? If you don’t mind. I have a merc 800 from the 70s on a 16ft V and get about 34 wot out of it. Your cruising. Thanks for any information.
yep, when I bought mine, the guy turned it over for a few seconds and it ate the impeller, i COULD SMELL IT, I told him Ill give you $200 less now as I have to fix the impeller
I repaired same engine, the problem with not turning on key turn was bad wiring connection to the battery, i dont know how you got lucky on tapping on starter because thats not how you fix a starter :D. The problem was in the wire going to the batter for me and after that no clicking and turns in first time everytime.
That motor looks great. I was recently given an 850 that needs some work. When looking it over I found the plastic or whatever in the voltage rectifier was melted. I wonder if anybody else has seen this or knows if it indicates another problem
the issue is the diodes get blown, feeding constant current to the stator and melting it down. can also eventually damage the trigger and thus switchbox. someone most likely had reversed the battery cables by accident.
Has anyone found a way to connect muffs to it to run out of water without a bucket? Seems like the water intake grates are in an awkward position and regular muffs can’t seal onto
Don't think I had the chance to test the old prop solo, with the new prop 62 km/h. The holeshot with the old prop was fun but way too aggressive for board sports even at part throttle.
The work you've done so far most likely exceeds the quality of the original build.Don't forget to seal with epoxy any mounting bolt holes through the new transom.
I believe that "high stress cracking" is referred to as crazing in the fiberglass boat repair industry.It is merely cosmetic,runs no deeper than the gel coat and does not affect strength. It is caused by the gel coat shrinking over time and usually occurs at a sharp turn in the fiberglass lay-up. Fill it minimally with epoxy filler and paint over.
Not familiar with boat engines but it your battery is good load test it to be sure then find the solenoid and power it there if it still clicks tap the starter motor with a hammer if it still just clicks it is probably a bad solenoid or starter, the contacts in the solenoid get corroded from arcing when it closes some solenoids can be takin apart and cleaned or the starter bushings could be warn and that causes a loss of power to turn it over, just a few thoughts good luck. When you hear the clicking that is the solenoid magnetically closing to contact the copper contacts that send power to the starter to turn it over.
