Our channel combines personal (Radar Road Warriors) and business (Mobile RV Tech Services) RVing content to assist RVers in navigating the RV lifestyle and DIY repairs. We operate Mobile RV Tech Services based in East Tawas, Michigan, from May to November, and snowbird for work from January to April.
Do you have a video about hooking up a 30amp travel trailer to a house outlet? I just bought my first camper and want to hook it up to my house 110 outlet to at least run the refrigerator. That's it. Well, put the slide out so I can clean and listen to the radio. 😊 I did purchase an adapter 30amp to 15amp (dogbone). I also have an extensive cord that says.. 125 volts/1875 watts. 12/3 50pi and, of course, the cord that goes to the camper. I know everything gets turned off before plugging in like the house breakers and A/C unit in the camper before turning on. I guess it is the sequence that I'm confused with. Does it go... Camper cord to dog bone to extension cord to surge protector and then plug into house? Thanks for any help and advice you can give!
Do those airtight tubes for sealant actually work, and keep the sealant fresh long-term? Tried many ways to keep sealant from drying out over the long term, nothing has worked, for those of us that use it infrequently!
If you use them infrequently, no, your sealant will dry out after a couple of months. It's best to plan to use the entire tube if you don't use it often. You can learn a little more about sealant in this video ru-vid.comgtrG25FX6Rc?si=iUU7sC27sFDMSC5E
So I have a 30amp travel trailer. If I went to a campground and they only had 50amp service, I couldn't connect a 30 to 50 amp dogbone and plug it in? Good to know!! Thank you!
@@lovinglife69 you could connect and it will work the RV. You still can only use 3,600 watts like you would if plugged into a 30 amp site. Doing this isn’t recommended since your power cord between the campground power and your breaker box inside the RV is no longer protected by the proper sized circuit breaker. If a short happened in that power cord, a fire would be likely.
RV Sealant is designed to be able to layer and reseal. Removing all of the old sealant opens up the corner and makes it more vulnerable to water issues. The sealant when first put on a corner will settle, resealing what has settled is much better than starting over and having the new sealant settle.
My pretty new Furrion air conditioner with a Dometic digital thermostat started doing this a couple days ago. Then last night the air conditioner shut off and won’t turn back on. I’m getting power to my thermostat and even replaced the thermostat since I had a new one laying around. New thermostat got power but buttons weren’t working so I put the old faceplate onto the new thermostat and I got controls back but air conditioner still isn’t getting triggered on. I’ve checked all my breakers and fuses and doesn’t seem to be a blown fuse or tripped breaker. Any ideas?
@@kalebstout7673 I’d make sure you have power to the A/C unit control box. If so and still no activity, it could be a variety of options. I’d recommend calling a tech out vs replacing parts and guessing. RVTAA.org/locate
Wonder if it would be feasible to have ceiling mounted cold air returns for summer, and like a sliding blocking door and building another set of returns for winter towards the bottom of the floors so season dependent you could choose from which set of vents you were pulling from.
@@RadarRoadWarriors I'm sorry, should check my question before posting. The 2 don't connect,,the Rhino is larger. I'm gonna call my brother and see what's up,, maybe that's why he gave it to me.
I discovered there's two different types of Dicor lap sealant. I ordered some off Walmart's website and some off Amazon not realizing they were different kinds. Dicor 501LSW-1, Happy Free Lap SealantThat caused my roof to shrink and bubble up. But the other kind I bought was 610 SASLW dicor ultra lap sealant which worked perfectly. Is one for a certain type of roof? Here's a video I made showing what happened. ru-vid.comguIdUthvRx8?si=bqFlDoUWm1lx6hxB
Dicor 501LSW or 551LSW are the 2 products I use. They are both HAPS free. There used to be a line that was HAPS free and one that was not. They all list HAPS free now. Dicor can make the roof bubble for a short time during the curing process. It will mostly flatten back out over time and doesn't affect the roof as a whole. In your video, the EPDM roof needs replacement and has lost its coating. That could be why you had the different effects.
All of this content is great. Wow, that is a lot of stuff. Overwhelming almost. But I have to remember, I don't want to take on as much variety as you are willing to do. As always, I wish you a ton of great, continued success.
Yes the more diverse you are the more supplies that are needed. I love tackling a variety of jobs so I have to accommodate that with a variety of tools and supplies.
I try to avoid any products that are specifically recommended for RV’s if possible because they are often subpar quality and Dicor is no different in my opinion. Sure it works for a while but in Texas where the UV rays might be more intense it doesn’t last as long as other products. I’ve been really happy with Sika 221 so far. It’s super thick in viscosity and adheres really well.
I'm not going to try to change your mind as you are free to use your sealant of choice. As an RV tech, I have seen leak issues stem from people who didn't use an RV-specific product. Also, as an RV tech, if I decided to pick up some sealant from the local hardware store and the RV had an issue due to using the wrong sealant, I would be liable for the damage in the RV due to my not using a product designed for RV use. I get it that Texas is harder on products with the hotter environment and more UV rays. I work on RVs in Texas during the winter and they have a lot more sun damage than northern RVs.
Great video as always! I have used proflex for the last few years. The issue I'm having is after a few months on the RV, the proflex hardens and shrinks. It makes it very difficult to remove, even damaging the decals.
You can warm it up with a heat gun to make any RV sealant softer and more pliable to remove. As far as your sealant shrinking, you may not have a thick enough bead down which doesn't have enough material to flex.
@@johnbarry1144 the only place I found them was directly from Lippert. Give them a call with the part number I showed in the video and they’ll ship them to you.
I know this has been about a year, but I was hoping you're still around to answer a question. I just purchased a CruiserRv Shadow travel trailer. We run on 30Amps at the campgrounds. We use the long electric power cable that plugs on the side of the camper and then plugs that into the surge protector, which plugs into the box. It actually looks the same as yours. We want to plug in at our house on days that I just want to get in there and clean it from our trips. Just use the radio, lights, and put the slide out. Then, one day before we leave, we want to run the refrigerator. We purchased a 30 to 15 dog bone and we have a heavy duty extension cord that says its rated for 1875 watts and its 12/3 meaning 12 gauge/3 prong. My question is what order should i put them in and is that extension cord good enough to use. If it is which I'm thinking it is. I turn off all power to the house or to the 110 plug in I'm going to be using. Then plug the camper power cord into the side of it, plug the extension cord to it, then the dog bone to the extension cord then the surge protector then plug all into the outlet to the house then turn power to that outlet on. Am i correct or even close? Thank you for any advice you can give me.
@@RadarRoadWarriors may ask what you used to clean the Lap sealant, so I never buy that product. Lap sealant when cleaned properly should almost look like new, not grey with brush marks cutting through the grey.
My new 2800i gen would run for 10 to 30 minutes then shut down. Oil was just below full level, checked not screwing in dip stick as stated in owner's manual. Took to Onan service, they had my gen for 2 weeks. Put back in and same problem persists. Saw videos on this subject, drained oil to just above add mark, problem gone, runs without shutting down.
@@RadarRoadWarriors Then.......you would have an Onan boat anchor. This gen WILL NOT run more than a few minutes with oil at full mark. Between the add and full mark IS the safe operating oil level for this gen. I've had 4 other Onans and none have had this problem, sounds like you don't have this problem either and that's good. Of course I've changed the oil {Onamax15w 40) like you said in your vid, and don't forget 2 weeks at Onan in Nashville, problem still persisted. This gen is less than a year old with only 11 hours, it has never run over 20 minutes til I lowered the oil level.
Yes the EPO has a surge module. I have never had to replace the surge module, however the EPO portion has saved my RV from high voltage, low voltage and bad connections.
While grid power is down during a storm can this setup be plugged into a generator & then into a 110 plug to back feed the home that will ONLY have lights & refrigerator in use? We KNOW about lineman issues, we are on a short road & keep a close eye on such
This setup would have the wrong orientation for back feeding to a home outlet. You would need a male-to-male cord for that, and that is something you would have to make on your own. They don't sell a male-to-male cord that I know of. If you do a back feed situation, I recommend to turn off the main breaker in the breaker panel box so you only supply power to your panel and it won't send voltage out on to the linemen. If you don't have a male-to-male cord, the next best option is to plug in items like the fridge directly.
