It would be useful to know whether the % discrepancy in readings between devices is similar at higher levels of radon like 4.0-10.0 pci/L. At levels below 1.0 pci/L it seems like there could be more room for error.
So here is one for you, and as well, this is an attic with turtle vents and soffits all around. So pulling in air through the soffits and then out the vents, like it should. What happens in the winter when the air is cold has high humidity. The same kind that causes hoar frost outside. That same air is being pulled into your roof is it now. Roofs dont stop venting in winter, they work the same all year round. So if that frost can stick to things outside, what stops it from sticking to things inside an attic? Ready a ton on this, and unless you have 100% air sealing below, which lets face it, who really does, many websites say you can expect some frost in your attic. But if you have some frost, isnt that what the venting is for, to dry out small things like that. Dont think water or snow comes in those turtle vents when its windy, it happens. Isnt that what tha air moving in your attic is for, not not only vent for heat issue in the summer, but to also dry out small amounts of frost and/or rain when things arent 100% perfect.
Thank you, just saw a home inspector place a monitor in a home a relative is buying and I wondered about how they'd know if it was tampered with over the two days.
Instead of using the apron flashing, I wonder if it wouldn't be a suitable alternative to use some self stick ice and water shield, but cut it down to size and only remove the adhesive's backing plastic from the section that will contact/cover the roofing shingles. Leave the plastic backing over the adhesive that will be in contact with the flashing or wall above. Then you could just affix it to the wall with the siding's fasteners or use cap nails before adding the siding. Seems to me it would be useful option for a DIY job where you have sufficient amount of leftover ice and water shield.
Our builders roofer did not put any through wall flashing where our roof intersects a brick veneer wall. All they did was put counter flashing up and load it up with caulk. Builder is now having to have the first few rows of brick torn out to add this flashing.
Roofer just did our porch roof and did NO flashing in an identical looking situation. We called him because the roof, over our porch, leaked onto the porch. He put new shingles on with his crew, four men who didn't speak English so we could ask no questions, and caulked, very sloppily, the line where the shingles meet the old asbestos siding. The roofer had given us an estimate with flashing included on the price. Decades ago, when the porch was put on, my grandparents had copper flashing installed under the asbestos siding. When we saw no new flashing and made the roofer come back, he claimed the very old copper flashing under the asphalt shingles was installed by him - even tearing two pieces, and cracking our asbestos sideing, to cite his false claim. Then he claimed we didn't need new flashing. Then, when we insisted he put the flashing on, as indicated in the estimate, he had his crew up there for about an hour hammering. He only put yet more shingles on, with no visible flashing added. He caulked it and put parts of the asbestos siding, which he'd broken off, on upside down. There are now gaps in the caulking, NO flashing - he tried to claim he put this black aluminum flashing UNDER the existing asbestos siding and new tiles. An obvious lie. To say I'm very upset is an understatement. He did nothing to remediate the old leak, which was where the roof met the old house, except to very sloppily caulk. When that wears off, or dries out, it will obviously leak again.
why should they get a mold sampling (inspection)? you need to address 1. the source 2. There are many products out there, but one doesn't kill em all - you need to ID your mold to kill it.
Only rule- if it has galvanized pipes, regardless of age. Get rid of it. Lived in Houston where many homes even from the late 70s used galvanized. It all sucks. Rust flakes off inside and clogs everything. Replaced it in our 1977 home with pex and was astonished by the pressure afterwards.
I'm in Utah. Apparently the whole state is a radioactive hot spot. We are currently renting and having to move do to a high radon test. All the property owners do not mitigate, their rational is the government doesn't mandate low levels so they won't mitigate. My question is, as we are on our own as far as bringing the level down, and have no way of installing a mitigation system in our new town home, is there a way to bring it down with a diy system within the apartment. I was thinking of setting up a pvc pipe w drilled holes along the floor against the wall and piping it out a window with a little fan attached. Anyone have a better idea?
I live in northern Virginia our 500 foot basement storage is unfinished and there is sump pump hole in a corner of storage, next to storage is finished rec room, door between them is always open, I thought storage should have highest amount of radon, thus I installed a cheep bathroom vent about 3 foot over the sump pump, runs 24 /7 , I used charcoal tester twice in the rec room for 3 days and sent them to lab for result, before installing vent reading was 5.3 , after installing the vent it was 4.6,, this was in winter with doors and windows closed, of course in summer time it should be lower, I am going to get a home radon detector and monitor with windows open and other changes,, this may give you an idea.
@@alpo7521You might expect that your highest radon levels would be downstairs and at their worst with no ventilation, but it seems that airflow / wind can suck radon up out of the ground and send it to other places in your house. My radon levels are at their worst upstairs when I have the porch door open. Warm air leaves the house, pulling gas up through the slab.
Not sure you'll ever see this comment, but I've watched tons of construction-related videos the past couple years, and IMO yours are top level for both watchability and content. I subscribed some months back, but I'm baffled. I have no f***ing idea why they haven't gotten more views, esp when so many YT videos on the same topics aren't nearly as good but have 100 times as many views or more. Makes no sense at all to me. Just want to testify that the videos you've done for your channel are exceptional.
oooh I HAD THE PROFSSIONAL DEVICES ON MY COUNTER IN MY HOME! Results: 5.9 pCi/L. Oh well. NO LAWS protecting me in OHIO, No code enforces, ZIP. NOTHING. Lawyers are $250 an hour. Or... I can move to a different unit. Huh? this entire property needs LONG TERM TESTING. mgmt is dragging feet. I found levels with a DIY around halloween. Hired LICENSED and still - then mgmt sticks a canister in 4 apts and claim they are at 1. Will not let me see the tests. Look like my family is going to have lawyer bills for Christmas and landlord rent is going into escrow. darn. Merry Christmas Ohio. YOU ARE EXPENDABLE. they do not tests schools either. oh well. ooops found out the big company IS DOING MITIGATION IN OTHER MORE EXPENSIVE PROPERTIES EAST COLUMBUS. go figure?
Inspector, I had retrofit flush gun windows installed on my stucco home. Caulk was not applied to the bottom edge fit where it sits on the stucco wall. Also one particular area bottom edge of fin I can see a gap so it’s not flush tight against the stucco wall. Is this a bad install? Should I have it fixed?
Hi. Which Airthings home monitor is more accurate? The 2950 Wave Radon or the Corentium Home Radon Detector (224)? I borrowed a Corentium and it measured over 14. I’d like to buy one for long term monitoring. Thank you!
This video might be the most hidden gem I've ever come across. Makes its point very clearly, concisely and visually, without descriptions using too many words. Should've had a thousand times as many views. Many thanks for doing it.
Mine is EIFS and I have top of the line Windows and I have backer rod and great caulking all around my window exterior frames. No water got inside my walls! I had the best guy do it. My house is now over a dozen years old and other than replacing the caulking this year which you need to do on EIFS about every 10 to 12 years I have no wet.
My new roof has a nail every inch on the exposed side of the flashing. Seems excessive to me. The contractor said his guys went above and beyond a good job. Thoughts?
