Well, you did help locate the oil pan and the oil filter but so much for a step-by-step oil change on the 96 Buick😂

I got a buick 92 its doing the same thing, when i turn it on i have to touch the wires the get it to work

Thank you for the video what type of couplers do you use to splice the hoses together thank you

What size vacuum hose did you use?

Have a 96 park ave 143000 only on it. Been pulling my hair out with vent/AC problems. Will try this fix. See if it works! However, I think I have other problems. Which are, car will only blow out of defr and floor like yours, but will randomly open or close the actuators causing zero air flow from any vent. Also, car thinks it's always defrosting so the AC is always running. Causing the cooling fans on the radiator to run all the time. Not good in winter. We unplug the AC in the winter, but the radiator fans still run. Put a new climate control computer in, works great but didn't fix the vent AC issues. Thanks for the video!

helpful

where you got that air filter hose from??

Yes, thank you

100% the problem thanks for the video 👍😎

Started having problems with my 92 park avenue never had any problems till now will check it out thanks 👍

Why have vacuum lines if there's a blindoor motor.

Thanks for the video, I have a 96 Buick Park Ave and I had the same problem and did this and now I have air out of my vents. Thank you again 👍

Default Default redirect the cooled air in late model GM cars (96-2000) 1. Release and fully open the glove box. Remove any screws holding the liner in place. This will expose the air conditioning programmer and multi color vacuum hose harness assembly. The vacuum source hose from the engine is black and connects to a violet flexible plastic tube going to the programmer vacuum connector plug. 2. With the engine running, locate the connector on the violet tube where it connects to the black vacuum hose. This connection is about six inches from the programmer. Disconnect the two hoses at this point to verify that there is indeed engine vacuum. 3. If there is not, you have a vacuum source problem. Identify the problem, repair it, and test again for vacuum and for proper air flow to the vents. If the problem is solved, then you can skip the reset of this write up. If there is vacuum present, you will have to keep searching. In all likelihood the problem is in the male vacuum connector attached to the programmer. 4. Remove the 8mm nut holding the female plug and gently unplug the female manifold vacuum hose connector. 5. Check the male connectors. If they are soft and flexible, this is the problem. Often in addition to being soft one or more of these nipples will break off and remain in the female connector. [/URL]This shows the clear plastic female connector in place on the installed programmer with the suggested flat washer (circled in red) added for strength. This shows the interior of the opened programmer exposing the offending hose harness assembly. This assembly will need to be replaced or bypassed with 1/8 inch vacuum hose. Unfortunately this harness assembly is not available as a service part. However, a similar programmer is used on "C" and "H" cars back to 1985. Swap out the Harness from an older programmer 6. To proceed with the following repair, first remove the programmer from the vehicle. Trying to fix it while still installed will invariably lead to cracking the case. [/URL]This clear, plastic female connector may have one or more broken nipples. If a replacement programmer or harness is not used, and a repair is needed, cut the connector off and bypass with 1/8" vacuum hose. [/LEFT] 7. If from a used programmer, you can salvage a male connector with firm vacuum studs, open the offending programmer and replace the harness assembly as shown above. Put the cover back on the programmer and reinstall in the vehicle. 8. Before connecting the existing clear plastic female connector, you will need to carefully remove any broken nipples that remain. Now gently push the female connector onto the male connector you replaced in the programmer. Be sure to reinstall the nut using a flat washer. Without the washer the connection may not properly seal. 9. Start the engine and set the controls for cool air. Remember, once the programmer is disconnected electrically it loses its memory. After re-connecting it and requesting air conditioning, it will take a couple of minutes for the system to work as directed. Retest and check again for proper airflow. If it works, you’re done and you can forget the repair below. [/URL]The culprit: no one is sure why the hoses of this harness assembly become so soft that they crimp and cut off vacuum. But they do, and then chilled air is sent to the wrong vents. This assembly is the same one shown in above, but removed from the programmer. If you can find an old programmer, swap out the harness. Look for GM #16258434 or AC Delco #15-72278 (fits a Buick). However, there are several programmer part numbers using the same harness. Don’t settle just for this p/n. [/LEFT] Plan B: Repair the existing programmer If you cannot locate a replacement harness, plan on repairing the existing unit. 1B. Remove the programmer from the vehicle. 2B. Open the programmer and carefully cut the colored plastic tubes at their point of entry into the black connector. 3B. Cut off the clear, female connector. Reconnect each individual hose (color to color) using 1/8-inch vacuum hose. 4B. Complete Step 9 above. You can save all this effort if you wish by buying a new programmer. But these can cost several hundred dollars. Considering that this repair only takes about 1 hour, it'* well worth the money saved.

Default Default redirect the cooled air in late model GM cars (96-2000) 1. Release and fully open the glove box. Remove any screws holding the liner in place. This will expose the air conditioning programmer and multi color vacuum hose harness assembly. The vacuum source hose from the engine is black and connects to a violet flexible plastic tube going to the programmer vacuum connector plug. 2. With the engine running, locate the connector on the violet tube where it connects to the black vacuum hose. This connection is about six inches from the programmer. Disconnect the two hoses at this point to verify that there is indeed engine vacuum. 3. If there is not, you have a vacuum source problem. Identify the problem, repair it, and test again for vacuum and for proper air flow to the vents. If the problem is solved, then you can skip the reset of this write up. If there is vacuum present, you will have to keep searching. In all likelihood the problem is in the male vacuum connector attached to the programmer. 4. Remove the 8mm nut holding the female plug and gently unplug the female manifold vacuum hose connector. 5. Check the male connectors. If they are soft and flexible, this is the problem. Often in addition to being soft one or more of these nipples will break off and remain in the female connector. [/URL]This shows the clear plastic female connector in place on the installed programmer with the suggested flat washer (circled in red) added for strength. This shows the interior of the opened programmer exposing the offending hose harness assembly. This assembly will need to be replaced or bypassed with 1/8 inch vacuum hose. Unfortunately this harness assembly is not available as a service part. However, a similar programmer is used on "C" and "H" cars back to 1985. Swap out the Harness from an older programmer 6. To proceed with the following repair, first remove the programmer from the vehicle. Trying to fix it while still installed will invariably lead to cracking the case. [/URL]This clear, plastic female connector may have one or more broken nipples. If a replacement programmer or harness is not used, and a repair is needed, cut the connector off and bypass with 1/8" vacuum hose. [/LEFT] 7. If from a used programmer, you can salvage a male connector with firm vacuum studs, open the offending programmer and replace the harness assembly as shown above. Put the cover back on the programmer and reinstall in the vehicle. 8. Before connecting the existing clear plastic female connector, you will need to carefully remove any broken nipples that remain. Now gently push the female connector onto the male connector you replaced in the programmer. Be sure to reinstall the nut using a flat washer. Without the washer the connection may not properly seal. 9. Start the engine and set the controls for cool air. Remember, once the programmer is disconnected electrically it loses its memory. After re-connecting it and requesting air conditioning, it will take a couple of minutes for the system to work as directed. Retest and check again for proper airflow. If it works, you’re done and you can forget the repair below. [/URL]The culprit: no one is sure why the hoses of this harness assembly become so soft that they crimp and cut off vacuum. But they do, and then chilled air is sent to the wrong vents. This assembly is the same one shown in above, but removed from the programmer. If you can find an old programmer, swap out the harness. Look for GM #16258434 or AC Delco #15-72278 (fits a Buick). However, there are several programmer part numbers using the same harness. Don’t settle just for this p/n. [/LEFT] Plan B: Repair the existing programmer If you cannot locate a replacement harness, plan on repairing the existing unit. 1B. Remove the programmer from the vehicle. 2B. Open the programmer and carefully cut the colored plastic tubes at their point of entry into the black connector. 3B. Cut off the clear, female connector. Reconnect each individual hose (color to color) using 1/8-inch vacuum hose. 4B. Complete Step 9 above. You can save all this effort if you wish by buying a new programmer. But these can cost several hundred dollars. Considering that this repair only takes about 1 hour, it'* well worth the money saved.

Default Default redirect the cooled air in late model GM cars (96-2000) 1. Release and fully open the glove box. Remove any screws holding the liner in place. This will expose the air conditioning programmer and multi color vacuum hose harness assembly. The vacuum source hose from the engine is black and connects to a violet flexible plastic tube going to the programmer vacuum connector plug. 2. With the engine running, locate the connector on the violet tube where it connects to the black vacuum hose. This connection is about six inches from the programmer. Disconnect the two hoses at this point to verify that there is indeed engine vacuum. 3. If there is not, you have a vacuum source problem. Identify the problem, repair it, and test again for vacuum and for proper air flow to the vents. If the problem is solved, then you can skip the reset of this write up. If there is vacuum present, you will have to keep searching. In all likelihood the problem is in the male vacuum connector attached to the programmer. 4. Remove the 8mm nut holding the female plug and gently unplug the female manifold vacuum hose connector. 5. Check the male connectors. If they are soft and flexible, this is the problem. Often in addition to being soft one or more of these nipples will break off and remain in the female connector. [/URL]This shows the clear plastic female connector in place on the installed programmer with the suggested flat washer (circled in red) added for strength. This shows the interior of the opened programmer exposing the offending hose harness assembly. This assembly will need to be replaced or bypassed with 1/8 inch vacuum hose. Unfortunately this harness assembly is not available as a service part. However, a similar programmer is used on "C" and "H" cars back to 1985. Swap out the Harness from an older programmer 6. To proceed with the following repair, first remove the programmer from the vehicle. Trying to fix it while still installed will invariably lead to cracking the case. [/URL]This clear, plastic female connector may have one or more broken nipples. If a replacement programmer or harness is not used, and a repair is needed, cut the connector off and bypass with 1/8" vacuum hose. [/LEFT] 7. If from a used programmer, you can salvage a male connector with firm vacuum studs, open the offending programmer and replace the harness assembly as shown above. Put the cover back on the programmer and reinstall in the vehicle. 8. Before connecting the existing clear plastic female connector, you will need to carefully remove any broken nipples that remain. Now gently push the female connector onto the male connector you replaced in the programmer. Be sure to reinstall the nut using a flat washer. Without the washer the connection may not properly seal. 9. Start the engine and set the controls for cool air. Remember, once the programmer is disconnected electrically it loses its memory. After re-connecting it and requesting air conditioning, it will take a couple of minutes for the system to work as directed. Retest and check again for proper airflow. If it works, you’re done and you can forget the repair below. [/URL]The culprit: no one is sure why the hoses of this harness assembly become so soft that they crimp and cut off vacuum. But they do, and then chilled air is sent to the wrong vents. This assembly is the same one shown in above, but removed from the programmer. If you can find an old programmer, swap out the harness. Look for GM #16258434 or AC Delco #15-72278 (fits a Buick). However, there are several programmer part numbers using the same harness. Don’t settle just for this p/n. [/LEFT] Plan B: Repair the existing programmer If you cannot locate a replacement harness, plan on repairing the existing unit. 1B. Remove the programmer from the vehicle. 2B. Open the programmer and carefully cut the colored plastic tubes at their point of entry into the black connector. 3B. Cut off the clear, female connector. Reconnect each individual hose (color to color) using 1/8-inch vacuum hose. 4B. Complete Step 9 above. You can save all this effort if you wish by buying a new programmer. But these can cost several hundred dollars. Considering that this repair only takes about 1 hour, it'* well worth the money saved.

how are the shocks treating you? do they ride much different? considering replacing mine soon

Would this the be some for a 2002 park ave?

Worked on my 98 LeSabre

Does anyone know if this issue/part would also effect the selector lights of the climate control panel buttons if it were bad, or going bad? I have a '93 Lesabre and my biggest issue is that all eight buttons will light up equally (dimly lit) when my lights are on, but the button that is selected doesn't light up brighter than the others to indicate which button is currently selected.. There's been only a few times that my heat will start coming out of the panel for no reason, but then it eventually corrects itself.. When the a/c gets goofy, it will all the sudden start coming out of the floor/defrost for awhile, and then it too will eventually return to the panel vents as it should.. All of this started happening at the same time so I know it's all sourcing from the same part/issue, I'm just trying to figure out what one component would effect the indicator lights and the heat/air routing passages if it were either going bad, is damaged, or maybe came unplugged?..

This is my problem and on to of that the ac control panel done when out

What’s the part called

I need a part something like this for my Buick century 1999 anybody know what the part is called?

What other methods u got I did this and still don’t wrk

Thanks

Bout to try this today same car same year

Couldn't you just cut the tube that holds ink in a pen to size and insert them into the male ends to keep them from collapsing?

Wat that part called

I got a 95

I'm trying to fix my Daddy's car he needs heat

Ok ok I saw the vacuum line I think without the box okie dokie 👌

How do you bypass is it just getting rid of the black box all together I can't find your bypass video

I’m so glad you posted this. This exactly what was going on with my Buick. Such an easy fix.

Do you know if this works on an O5 park ave

Great vid. Also on my buick regel I found the master vac line for this broke under the battery cable area from rubbing. Check this area as well if you are still having problems.

Also left a comment in part 2, did what you showed, 1/8 kept slipping of wires in the box, put alittle super glue on the wire slped tubing on, finished the job, works great, thank you

Did how you showed. tubing would slip off, so I put a dot of super glue on the wires inside the box, put it together works fine, thank you

That little part is 400 and some change

I'm having this problem in my park avenue Iv watched both of your videos but I would actually like to see you splice the wires and put vacuum hose on them so that I might do it right

This is a comment from my other video I’ve never looked into if it replaces it or not the piece is called a programmer GM 16258434 AC Delco 15-72278

Where can I find the piece at

I'm dumb someone help idk what he did

This would help so much more if you show us. I'm pretty inept and need help. I have 1999 LeSabre that has that issue

thank you for the info bro!

These videos are invaluable dude, not everyone can afford or wants to spend a ton of money on new cars or even cars that are a few years old. I had one of these cars during a hard time in my life and man I’ll tell you, it never failed me. Now I have a soft spot for them. Buicks from around this time deserve more respect.

Mode door!

so you eliminated that part completely? if so, what is its purpose then?

the piece is called a programmer GM 16258434 AC Delco 15-72278

next time use a pin to point to item you;re talking about

Y’all r a bunch of incels

Worked for me! You’re the best!