This is a secondary video showing how the vacuum box is removed to cut and repair the vacuum lines for the air to work on your center vents! Part 1 • Fixing Buick park aven...
Great vid. Also on my buick regel I found the master vac line for this broke under the battery cable area from rubbing. Check this area as well if you are still having problems.
Awesome advice! Question though, where's this master vacuum line supposed to go? Ours has been floating loose under the battery tray since we got the car like 7 years ago, absolutely no obvious area where it's supposed to go.. What do?
@@southernflatland I bought some vacuum hose, and spliced the hose back together.i just used a small piece to join the broken line. You should find both halves of the lines. Then your vents will work again. Cut clean edges, with the engine running you will feel vaccume. It starts behind on top of engine.
@@janerikborge Our old car like came with this vacuum line, totally disconnected from anything with a bolt jammed in it, rotting away under the battery tray. I have absolutely zero clue where it's supposed to go, but it definitely sounds important. I can't match where it's supposed to connect in the first place, information would definitely be handy...
Default Default redirect the cooled air in late model GM cars (96-2000) 1. Release and fully open the glove box. Remove any screws holding the liner in place. This will expose the air conditioning programmer and multi color vacuum hose harness assembly. The vacuum source hose from the engine is black and connects to a violet flexible plastic tube going to the programmer vacuum connector plug. 2. With the engine running, locate the connector on the violet tube where it connects to the black vacuum hose. This connection is about six inches from the programmer. Disconnect the two hoses at this point to verify that there is indeed engine vacuum. 3. If there is not, you have a vacuum source problem. Identify the problem, repair it, and test again for vacuum and for proper air flow to the vents. If the problem is solved, then you can skip the reset of this write up. If there is vacuum present, you will have to keep searching. In all likelihood the problem is in the male vacuum connector attached to the programmer. 4. Remove the 8mm nut holding the female plug and gently unplug the female manifold vacuum hose connector. 5. Check the male connectors. If they are soft and flexible, this is the problem. Often in addition to being soft one or more of these nipples will break off and remain in the female connector. [/URL]This shows the clear plastic female connector in place on the installed programmer with the suggested flat washer (circled in red) added for strength. This shows the interior of the opened programmer exposing the offending hose harness assembly. This assembly will need to be replaced or bypassed with 1/8 inch vacuum hose. Unfortunately this harness assembly is not available as a service part. However, a similar programmer is used on "C" and "H" cars back to 1985. Swap out the Harness from an older programmer 6. To proceed with the following repair, first remove the programmer from the vehicle. Trying to fix it while still installed will invariably lead to cracking the case. [/URL]This clear, plastic female connector may have one or more broken nipples. If a replacement programmer or harness is not used, and a repair is needed, cut the connector off and bypass with 1/8" vacuum hose. [/LEFT] 7. If from a used programmer, you can salvage a male connector with firm vacuum studs, open the offending programmer and replace the harness assembly as shown above. Put the cover back on the programmer and reinstall in the vehicle. 8. Before connecting the existing clear plastic female connector, you will need to carefully remove any broken nipples that remain. Now gently push the female connector onto the male connector you replaced in the programmer. Be sure to reinstall the nut using a flat washer. Without the washer the connection may not properly seal. 9. Start the engine and set the controls for cool air. Remember, once the programmer is disconnected electrically it loses its memory. After re-connecting it and requesting air conditioning, it will take a couple of minutes for the system to work as directed. Retest and check again for proper airflow. If it works, you’re done and you can forget the repair below. [/URL]The culprit: no one is sure why the hoses of this harness assembly become so soft that they crimp and cut off vacuum. But they do, and then chilled air is sent to the wrong vents. This assembly is the same one shown in above, but removed from the programmer. If you can find an old programmer, swap out the harness. Look for GM #16258434 or AC Delco #15-72278 (fits a Buick). However, there are several programmer part numbers using the same harness. Don’t settle just for this p/n. [/LEFT] Plan B: Repair the existing programmer If you cannot locate a replacement harness, plan on repairing the existing unit. 1B. Remove the programmer from the vehicle. 2B. Open the programmer and carefully cut the colored plastic tubes at their point of entry into the black connector. 3B. Cut off the clear, female connector. Reconnect each individual hose (color to color) using 1/8-inch vacuum hose. 4B. Complete Step 9 above. You can save all this effort if you wish by buying a new programmer. But these can cost several hundred dollars. Considering that this repair only takes about 1 hour, it'* well worth the money saved.
Default Default redirect the cooled air in late model GM cars (96-2000) 1. Release and fully open the glove box. Remove any screws holding the liner in place. This will expose the air conditioning programmer and multi color vacuum hose harness assembly. The vacuum source hose from the engine is black and connects to a violet flexible plastic tube going to the programmer vacuum connector plug. 2. With the engine running, locate the connector on the violet tube where it connects to the black vacuum hose. This connection is about six inches from the programmer. Disconnect the two hoses at this point to verify that there is indeed engine vacuum. 3. If there is not, you have a vacuum source problem. Identify the problem, repair it, and test again for vacuum and for proper air flow to the vents. If the problem is solved, then you can skip the reset of this write up. If there is vacuum present, you will have to keep searching. In all likelihood the problem is in the male vacuum connector attached to the programmer. 4. Remove the 8mm nut holding the female plug and gently unplug the female manifold vacuum hose connector. 5. Check the male connectors. If they are soft and flexible, this is the problem. Often in addition to being soft one or more of these nipples will break off and remain in the female connector. [/URL]This shows the clear plastic female connector in place on the installed programmer with the suggested flat washer (circled in red) added for strength. This shows the interior of the opened programmer exposing the offending hose harness assembly. This assembly will need to be replaced or bypassed with 1/8 inch vacuum hose. Unfortunately this harness assembly is not available as a service part. However, a similar programmer is used on "C" and "H" cars back to 1985. Swap out the Harness from an older programmer 6. To proceed with the following repair, first remove the programmer from the vehicle. Trying to fix it while still installed will invariably lead to cracking the case. [/URL]This clear, plastic female connector may have one or more broken nipples. If a replacement programmer or harness is not used, and a repair is needed, cut the connector off and bypass with 1/8" vacuum hose. [/LEFT] 7. If from a used programmer, you can salvage a male connector with firm vacuum studs, open the offending programmer and replace the harness assembly as shown above. Put the cover back on the programmer and reinstall in the vehicle. 8. Before connecting the existing clear plastic female connector, you will need to carefully remove any broken nipples that remain. Now gently push the female connector onto the male connector you replaced in the programmer. Be sure to reinstall the nut using a flat washer. Without the washer the connection may not properly seal. 9. Start the engine and set the controls for cool air. Remember, once the programmer is disconnected electrically it loses its memory. After re-connecting it and requesting air conditioning, it will take a couple of minutes for the system to work as directed. Retest and check again for proper airflow. If it works, you’re done and you can forget the repair below. [/URL]The culprit: no one is sure why the hoses of this harness assembly become so soft that they crimp and cut off vacuum. But they do, and then chilled air is sent to the wrong vents. This assembly is the same one shown in above, but removed from the programmer. If you can find an old programmer, swap out the harness. Look for GM #16258434 or AC Delco #15-72278 (fits a Buick). However, there are several programmer part numbers using the same harness. Don’t settle just for this p/n. [/LEFT] Plan B: Repair the existing programmer If you cannot locate a replacement harness, plan on repairing the existing unit. 1B. Remove the programmer from the vehicle. 2B. Open the programmer and carefully cut the colored plastic tubes at their point of entry into the black connector. 3B. Cut off the clear, female connector. Reconnect each individual hose (color to color) using 1/8-inch vacuum hose. 4B. Complete Step 9 above. You can save all this effort if you wish by buying a new programmer. But these can cost several hundred dollars. Considering that this repair only takes about 1 hour, it'* well worth the money saved.
Does anyone know if this issue/part would also effect the selector lights of the climate control panel buttons if it were bad, or going bad? I have a '93 Lesabre and my biggest issue is that all eight buttons will light up equally (dimly lit) when my lights are on, but the button that is selected doesn't light up brighter than the others to indicate which button is currently selected.. There's been only a few times that my heat will start coming out of the panel for no reason, but then it eventually corrects itself.. When the a/c gets goofy, it will all the sudden start coming out of the floor/defrost for awhile, and then it too will eventually return to the panel vents as it should.. All of this started happening at the same time so I know it's all sourcing from the same part/issue, I'm just trying to figure out what one component would effect the indicator lights and the heat/air routing passages if it were either going bad, is damaged, or maybe came unplugged?..
It could be that I guess, if I remember right depending on the year the buttons are vacuum as well but I would assume it’s electrical, that’s my only assumption, but if you want to try it out for yourself and see if it fixes it, it costs next to nothing to buy the vacuum line and do this repair
Have a 96 park ave 143000 only on it. Been pulling my hair out with vent/AC problems. Will try this fix. See if it works! However, I think I have other problems. Which are, car will only blow out of defr and floor like yours, but will randomly open or close the actuators causing zero air flow from any vent. Also, car thinks it's always defrosting so the AC is always running. Causing the cooling fans on the radiator to run all the time. Not good in winter. We unplug the AC in the winter, but the radiator fans still run. Put a new climate control computer in, works great but didn't fix the vent AC issues. Thanks for the video!
I'm having this problem in my park avenue Iv watched both of your videos but I would actually like to see you splice the wires and put vacuum hose on them so that I might do it right
Sorry I hope you found the video it was linked in the description but here it is again, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-du_zSpcaR9U.html I hope you get it fixed!
I’m sorry friend but this has fixed my car for close to 3 years now. I would recommend looking into the vacuum lines riddled through your engine bay and then under tha dash after to see if you have a leak somewhere.
I am not positive on the newer body style of park avenues, I beloved it was electronically controlled but don’t quote me on it, I would suggest pull the glove box out and just see what’s in the area.
