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I had an ocellaris pair with five RBTA and never host. They’re in the tank for a long time with anemones: Traded them recently it to a clarkii pair, the clarkiis went straight to the anemone instantly even if they were captive bred.
Great video. I have a oscellaris thats a juvenile and a baby percula designer I guess you would say. Its white with orange markings. They dont seem to be pairing. The bigger one keeps trying but not quite as diligently as when I first got them about a month ago. I feel so bad for the female! I am ordering fish now and thought of adding a third baby oscellaris very cheap too at 8 bucks lol . Could that cause a huge problem or should I just wait and see? I have read it can take up to 3 months but in the past I have only bought osselaris and it happened very fast! If they dont pair should I remove the percula? I could put in frag tank! I hate to remove that one since its beautiful though! haha It would be difficult to find another one just like it and try again with that clown! I have read that its not healthy for clownfish to be in the same tank unpaired and they could also end up fighting to the death! Not to mention it breaks my heart to watch them unpaired when the big one wants to so bad!
Great video. I have a oscellaris thats a juvenile and a baby percula designer I guess you would say. Its white with orange markings. They dont seem to be pairing. The bigger one keeps trying but not quite as diligently as when I first got them about a month ago. I feel so bad for the female! I am ordering fish now and thought of adding a third baby oscellaris very cheap too at 8 bucks lol . Could that cause a huge problem or should I just wait and see? I have read it can take up to 3 months but in the past I have only bought osselaris and it happened very fast! If they dont pair should I remove the percula? I could put in frag tank! I hate to remove that one since its beautiful though! haha It would be difficult to find another one just like it and try again with that clown! I have read that its not healthy for clownfish to be in the same tank unpaired and they could also end up fighting to the death! Not to mention it breaks my heart to watch them unpaired when the big one wants to so bad!
Bought a 2nd anemone once after my first one got sucked into the powerhead and my yellowtail clownfish completely went crazy and bit it to hell. Died the next day
Do you know if there is a freshwater version of this? I don't test my water often, but when I do I find the nitrate tests to be the most frustrating to try and match up the colour in the tube to the colour on the chart of the API or Fluval test kits.
I've been doing freshwater tanks for many years and still have a 125G tank with 12 gorgeous Altum angelfish. I also have a 32G Biocube and in November 2023, I decided to switch it over to saltwater. I loved it so much I purchased an 80G Innovative Marine Reef AIO tank as my show tank in January. It has all the bells and whistles (Neptune Apex Controller, Dos (for water changes) and Trident; Skimmer, ATO, UV Sterilizer). It's a mixed reef with mostly softies, LPS and a few SPS. The Neptune has been amazing in allowing me to stay on top of pH, salinity, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium levels which have all been very consistent and stable. However, several weeks ago, my tank got a bad outbreak of Dino Flagellates. Using a microscope, I determined I had the Large-Cell Amphidinium (LCA) Dinos. A HUGE shout out to Mack's Reef Dinos Support Group Facebook page for their insightful help and support on how to battle Dinos! As I learned, "Dinos" are quite common in new tanks. It most often happens due to an in-balance of Nitrates and Phosphates. I have the Hanna Checkers for Nitrates, Alkalinity and Phosphate. I also have the API Saltwater Master Test Kit. I tested my Nitrate and Phosphate with the Hanna Checker and like you, it read my Nitrate around 20ppm and Phosphate at 0.07. These were not really out of balance to cause the Dino outbreak so I was a bit confused. I then decided to test them with API. My nitrates showed no higher than 10 ppm and phosphates at zero! This made more sense especially since I had some GFO running in my filter. I tested several times over the several days and Hanna always consistently had my nitrates above 20ppm and phosphates at 0.07 while the API consistently had them at 5-10ppm nitrate and zero phosphate. So now I am wondering which test kit is correct? I decided to purchase a third test kit to break the tie and purchased the NYOS Nitrate and Phosphate kits. Guess what? These results mirrored the API test kits exactly!!!!!! LOL So I no longer use the Hanna Checker to measure my Nitrate and Phosphate because I do not trust the accuracy of them. As for the Dino outbreak, I was able to get it under control in just a few weeks. I did this by increasing water flow; lowering Skimmer intake, removing the GFO, only running blue lights (no white light in the spectrum); and siphoning out the Dinos on the sand bed through a 5 micron filter sock and then putting the water back into the tank. I then treated the sand that was siphoned out with Hydrogen Peroxide. I do use the Hanna Checker for testing Alkalinity of my Biocube, ATO and water changes, but that's it! I don't trust the Hanna Checker for Nitrate and Phosphate!
I stocked my Fluval 13.5 with live rock from Tampa Bay Live Rock and it was amazing. Brand new tank - did not need to cycle it at all. Put corals and fish in the day it all arrived. Its been up 6 months now and looks amazing
Hahaha just started our 150 gal tank. Today just put in some green chromosome and a pair of maroon clown fish to start. It’s funny to find how aggressive they are on this vid but we shall see how this journey goes!
I mean is this assuming I don't keep up on my levels? Because I'm about to get into the hobby but I know once I get everything to setup my tank I'm going to be meticulous about testing and my levels... even then would anemone not survive?
As long as you are getting the right water and the ammonia/nitrite levels are at 0 after putting some food in the tank every day for 2 weeks, you are ready.
I’ve had saltwater for 3 years now. One of the biggest things that you should mention next is that you need to test constantly if you have a reef tank. Just to make sure your nitrates/phosphates/ph/ alkalinity/ calcium/ magnesium are in check or you will kill your corals. Also if you have corals you will need to dose.
For small tanks, regular water changes are enough to maintain these levels in a well cycled tank. You are correct that large tanks need all those things, but smaller tanks with 20% water changes weekly will maintain proper levels.
Interesting concept, how would you setup a 29 tall, drilled for a external overflow to a sump? The return pump would need to slow, that much from your video.
Yeah I would try and have a smaller pump. If you don't have that as an option then I would restrict the flow somehow with a really broad opening instead of a focused powerhead. Lots of small holes instead of a big one basically
In the DFW area they are running a minimum of 200 bucks for small ones about 2-3 inches and 250-300 for larger 4-6 inch ones especially if its one of the higher demand color morphes such as Sherman, Colorado, Black widows or Rainbows.
