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Hey man, thank you very much for your videos. I just picked up a blown 14 brz with (I think) a spun rod bearing. It's so helpfull to see you do it first. I'm not sure if I skipped the part where you mentionned it, but why did you choose to go with a new crank and not get the old one machined? Was it too bad to be machined, Was it for peace of mind or maybe it's not something that can be done with those crank? Thanks
@NeeoDroid I just assumed it was too bad by looking at it. Plus I'd have to find a shop to machine it and order oversized bearings. With a new crank being less than $500, it just seemed way easier to just order a new one
Ive had a similar problem and thinking of getting a new engine, is there coding needed for this job. Im currently at worrk and been skipping through it. Thank you for making such a good video.
New update The ep3 calipers do fit but the handbrake cable passes underneath the caliper I see 2 options 1- you install it upside down (left side use right side one upside down) 2- remove the bracket and put it on top. Maybe you'll need new cables since the original one might be too short If you have any advice feel free to tell me! I'm almost done before the bleeding process
@@NickSabella better keep the original handbrake bracket the EP3 one the hole is too small to make the handbrake cable pass throught it any advice to remove that stupid disc screws? it's a real pain
ALL bmw's SUCK, but this one is designed so you have to take it to a shop and simple jobs take a long time so they can charge you a ferkin fortune, I HATE BMW
Can I ask a question: Do we connect the white wire (DRL) to the ACC power source in the fuse BOX? OR to the parking light when we turn the headlight switch to 1st position? Thank you
We did this for my key. At first it would not allow it to unlock the car. However, it was able to start the ignition. Once the ignition worked the unlock and lock functions work amazingly. Thank you for the video!
Just wanted to throw my thanks out there. First time ever doing a trans removal and reinstall. My throwout bearing went out in my 1999 Civic Ex Coupe 5 spd. With your video it went great! Ended up doing Rear main seal, flywheel, stage 1 exedy clutch and pressure plate, all new motor mounts, and new japanese sankei 555 ball joints. Car has never ran better, did not even have to adjust the clutch. Super stoked, thanks SO much for taking the time to make this with all of the details!
That white honda at the end in the backround looks so clean, i wrote down what your replaced to do on mine, i bought a 99 ex coupe 5spd last november for 260 however it had sat since 2014. These honda prices in MI are no joke😅
Hi mate. Thank you so much for this video. I cannot find a new battery anywhere like the old one. I do know it's a 180. Will the newer different style 180 VL2020 still work? Thanks mate from the UK.
I'm definetly going to do this to my civic, thanks for the help but I was wondering what front upper control arms do you use on the civic? I don't know wether or not to just get some ebay ones or actually spend some money on name brand ones for the front suspension.
This is the most retarded video ive ever seen. Shim with a pot metal electrical connector. Just hog out the output? No torques on putting your oil pump back together? RIP your engine.
2 месяца назад
Good video. I found it easier and safer to hold the fob gently in a vice and cut through the glued seam with a junior hacksaw (carefully). Agree with you remarks but in fairness BMW replaced this design with a screwed-togther one, hence some of the replies here.
Removing that nut on top of suspension would cause the spring to go flying. No sense making a video if you aren't going to show the actual removal and install of each part.
I thought they did because that is what shipped with my headlights but I didn't try them until after I made this video. Now that being said, you can place them in there and put the green clip on and they will stay in. I did this with an HID kit and was able to make it work. If you're working with HIDs you can also dremel the plastic to fit better. If you don't want to do any of this you can buy the proper bulb. It is a D2S bulb with an H style connector aka D2H.
Hey thanks for the reply! Ive been trying to get the Sylvania h7 bulb to work but with no luck. It has a metal base and is not plastic. The metal base does not match up at all with the socket in the headlight and does not fit within the green clip. Ill keep trying but i fear i may break the clip. I already broke of one little tab by accident. Vland was out of stock of their d2h kits unfortunately so im just trying to get these working until i can get the proper light kit @NickSabella
A lot of people in this comment section not realizing or understanding that there are 2 different types of FOBs for this pos. One that's changed like this, and one that isn't fucking stupid lol My Mini is the funnest car I've ever driven...I'll NEVER buy another one lol That car is nothing but dealing with shit like this, CONSTANTLY
Hey Nick, my wife has the exact same Mini Cooper S (John Works Edition). I recently installed the same Auxito LED’s. The same headlamp warning came on. How do I go about obtaining the adapters that you used in order to fix the warning indicator? Thanks
Hey nick so I just got some sylvania led for my 2017 clubmen. Do you think there’s adapters will work for me? I’m in the same bout I can’t stand the fault code
My side marker wont clip in, but you said you replaced the part it clips onto, I'm wondering how hard that was and what the part was called, if you could help I would greatly appreciate it.
Yeah I replaced the side marker bracket. You'll probably have to take the bumper off to replace it. It's riveted so you'll have to drill out the old ones and rivet the new one on. Here is a link to the parts: 86speed.com/side-marker-a-clip-bracket?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoa2xBhACEiwA1sb1BFFHMEW1eLt75djAW170tjH1DBjuUg-6ZK1OW3rYlsUxs3mYlvzYnBoC-qIQAvD_BwE