I totally share your frustration at 18:45 where you struggled with the downpipe clamp. I had a good part of my tool arsenal out trying everything I could think of. Like you I couldn't find any info or part numbers for the metal gasket (minifans is a good resource), so I used the old one that was still on the old clamp. For your followers I share the following hints that finally made the clamp magically go in place after several hours trying other methods. 1. use a jack to hold up and position the tailpipe as close as you can to the connecting point. 2. silicone spray to lubricate the joint. 3. I used a large and small vice grip pliers to hold the 2 ends of the clamp while I spread the clamp over the joint and securing the ends together. 4. finally tighten the bolt using a 16 mm wrench. It took less than 30 seconds using the vise grips. Hope this helps someone.
subscribed mate! im going to have to remove the engine on my JCW im currently doing a series on as the bottom end has gone, super informative videos, great work !
I have my F54 Engine pulled out and I came across this video. I will be referring to it as I go. Thanks. I picked up my 2016 Mini salvaged due to undercarriage damage. The oil pan was busted out, lots of scrapes on the bottom. It would start , just crank forever. I pulled things apart and have replaced the timing chains, that appeared to be stretched. Also replaced a bunch of "maintenence" parts. I almost bought a new engine like you, but taking my changes with what I've got. Thanks again.
How difficult was to replace the oil pan? I got a 2016 from the auction with a hole in the oil pan. I just bought it and thinking to install it this weeken. I’d appreciate any advice
I had the oil pan on and off 3 times in the process of rebuilding the engine. So I had the engine out of the car when I did it which made it much easier than doing it with the engine in the car.
In my estimation, it’s worth a try. The trick is having enough room to slide the pan into position without messing up the bead of sealant. Remove what ever you need to and do several dry runs to before applying the sealant for the real thing. Good luck.
Everything I read said it needed to be vacuum filled. I've also watched mat armstrong try to gravity bleed a newer bmw and it didn't go well. You can try it though
Ive had a similar problem and thinking of getting a new engine, is there coding needed for this job. Im currently at worrk and been skipping through it. Thank you for making such a good video.
Subbed! This was a great series. Question... Did you change the trans fluid? Or how do you even do it in these 3rd gen 2.0 motors? BMW says the fluid is a lifetime fluid. I don't ever go by that mess. If we can't do it ourselves, do we trust the dealer to do it if we ask them too? Thanks in advance
Loved your video! I saw in your video how the pulley set-up is when your camera panned by the front of the engine. I've got a 2019 F60 turbo and the upper idler pulley blew out. I can barely see it. It looks like I can see it better if I take the motor mount off. I've got the headlight assembly and wheel well liner out but I can't see it any better. Do you think the idler can be changed with the engine in place? Thanks
I would hope that I can be changed without pulling the motor but I'm not sure. It was really hard for me to get to it just to release the belt. I would think you probably have to remove that mount and raise or lower the engine with a jack to get to it.
Hey how's it going, i was wondering if you had any issues with the "wastegate actuator" yet ? A code saying something like wastegate position sensor or low boost ?
