Your booster bracket is upside down. The pivot is supposed to face up and its meant to drop the booster below the centerline of the pedal point so the booster/master doesnt hit the hood. The aftermarket booster being smaller diameter than stock is the only reason installing the bracket upside-down worked
The spring slides over the plastic air hose and goes all the way to the bottom. It is used in the same manner thousands of other springs over flexible hoses are used; to protect the hose from chaffing and kinking as it goes into the bottom end of the handle.
@@Blakes-Garage thanks man. It's weird because the compressor clutch is engaging and I just topped off the refrigerant and checked the pressures...the high side is a bit low, but it's only cooling like 10-15° cooler than ambient temperature. I'm guessing either my compressor is on its way out, or my orifice tube is clogged. Won't know til I get in there, so I may just replace both along with the accumulator while I have the system opened up.
@@benwrenchin what are your numbers? My truck doesn't have a "max ac" button so no way to force recirculation. I was sitting at idle earlier today and something changed in the dash and it went into recirc. It was blowing super cold. Wish I could keep it that way somehow.
@@Blakes-Garage I got it to about 50 psi on the low side and about 140 on the high side. It was around 80° outside when I checked it, so the low side pressure is basically the highest it can be while the high side should be around 175-210° so it's not really even close to what it should be. I always thought that if the compressor clutch engages then the compressor is working, but for whatever reason mines just not working like it should.
@@benwrenchin I'm no expert but I think your right. it definitely sounds like you have a clog or the compressor is going out. What year? If you do have a clogged orifice you will need to flush all the hoses and parts.
Another great video Mr.Blake I’ve been watching all of the OBS progress and Mann I cnt wait to start working on mine I just bought a 1997 c1500 extended and we all appreciate you
@@Blakes-Garage hello sir thnks for the reply and I cnt tell you how excited I am for the truck and I jus ordered all the front and rear suspension and I jus received the 2inch shackles too level the truck after that I need to fix the a/c because the blend door actuator links are all in pieces so no a/c for now but watching you and all the videos I have hope and I thnk u for that sir you have a blessed day until the next video
Pretty good vid for your first AC job. AC work is a learning curve but I'm afraid 4 cans is way to much, not much takes 4 cans any more unless you got a school bus with rear air. One helpful tip, you can google it and it will tell you how much freon it should take and how much oil and what kind to put in when replacing parts such as compressor, condenser ect. Also there should be a high pressure fitting in there some where, it is important that you know what high your high side pressure is. High side pressure should be around 200-250 if gets higher then that and closer to 300 shut it off and find out what's wrong. If your sniffer doesn't find a leak with 4 cans you probably don't have a leak. 29 is about the best vacuum you're gonna get if it holds that for 15-20 min. you're good. Before you pull the dash apart find the drain hose in the fire wall where water drains out and put your sniffer in the hose if it doesn't go off your evap is probably ok, if it does go off you found your leak. Hope this helps.
The internet told me 40oz of R12, but to start with 30oz since its converted to R132a. it somehow took 48oz but its blowing cold, for 35yrs old. It was down to about 15psi after 10 minutes so I think its got a very slow leak. If I have to put a $20 can in it a couple of times a year, I consider that acceptable. Good tip on the sniffer in the drain line. I will try that. I cannot find a high side fitting. Thank you for the detailed comment, I appreciate the information.
Great video man! That truck looks like it's in excellent shape for being 35 years old! Back in the day we had a 1992 Chevy Silverado, eventually sold it, have a 1998 now, just something I use now and then, your truck looks really nice interior, paint even the engine. I'll be doing my AC soon probably as well on my 1998, which doesn't look nearly as nice as your truck, of course my truck hasn't been parked in a garage for probably 20 years and don't use it a lot, probably why the AC acts up on it. Did you just go to a mechanic and they pulled your freon out? How much did that run you? I want to do as much as I can myself rather than taking it in to have a shop full service the AC as they will probably just go replacing everything when it just needs cleaned out and filled up, but if I could get it cleared out then I could test it and fill it up like with a kit like you have there, it looks like something I could do easily enough. 👍
It is in really good shape, especially for the age, I really lucked up on this one. The previous owner donated it to a church and i got it from a guy that bought it at auction.
An a/c shop should do the evac for free, but I just had to put that in the video so no one would get mad, There wasn't enough in it to do much, less than a half a can.
@@Blakes-Garage Well thanks for the video, and the link to the AC kit on Amazon, that looks like it has everything, I've been letting this go and just going without AC for a while, it'll kind of be nice to get AC working again, your video makes it look like it's something that with that kit, I can do 👍
Looks good. The C-Notch, holes underneath. They are designed to be fastened underneath so that the C-Notch is supported both horizontally and vertically. Prevents the frame from twisting in the long term. Some other jobs show cutting that rib above the 'pumpkin' to avoid the rear from making contact and hitting those lines up there. Hopefully your bump stops do the job. The cover really does transform the look of the truck - you were spot on with that.
I went back in a later video and cut the bed support, shortened the bump stops, and installed air shocks. That along with rolling the fenders seems to have gotten me where I want to be.
love the list. my reverse lights worked few days ago. however, is there fuse in the fuse box. maybe I blew a fuse . for sure gonna change the switch under the steering wheel.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to buy this kit and I always like to watch someone install something before I do so I know if I need to order anything else to go with it. I hate starting a project and having to stop to go buy more stuff I need.
Longer screws for the panel if you mount it there. That was it if you don't do the other mod with the filler. I would suggest using a real ad-a-fuse instead of the tabs they send. Seems to be hard on the socket.
an update to this. Thread tape. i had a pretty bad leak, and tracked it down to where the brass end threads onto the filler for the shock system. 3 wraps of tape fixed it up.
@@moycorral7870 you could, but would have to find one for the right size hoses. The hose in the pump kit is bigger than the hose on my Monroe air shock set. The original picture of the parts kit I purchased showed the T fitting with 2 hose spots and the middle was the threaded part. When I received the kit it had a 3 hose T and the threaded part separated.
good luck with it, especially teaching the Mrs, unless yours is nicer than mine (almost certainly!). If your back seat is stock I have a new in th ebox Bestop tan rear seat cover you can have, just HMU with mailing details. for the dash pad you can try Collins, Brothers in the DFW area, FN Jeep in Colorado Springs, or SW4OR ebay store but he is seasonal and may not be back from Fla yet. Might try Mile Hi jeep rebuilders in Denver too, but I dont think they deal with th enew jeeps like yours (and mine). good luck with it, I will check th etorque specs on the valve cover bolts in the am if I remember and get that number to you if you want it
you should be able to adjust the rod going to the vac assist unit the get the pedal height where you want it. Enjoy the ride and remember Just Empty Every Pocket!
Hey Blake, excellent video, thanks for sharing, I'm going to take your lead and I might go 4 layers deep with the boards and I think that might get me under my C7 Z06 safely so I can change my own oil and such! Great idea and this certainly is a great deal less expensive than the race ramps which virtually look about the same as far as design. I really like the fact that you utilized the corner triangular piece as your tire stopper too! Great idea. Thanks again and happy motoring!
Glad the video helped! If I were to build another set, I would go a little shorter on each section and do probably 2 more layers. Can't go too short on the sections or it's too tall too fast and hits your bumper. I use these things way more than I thought I would. The OBS is too low now for standard ramps, so they get used there as well.
It's not all that difficult. But an extra set of hands would be helpful. It REALLY makes a huge difference in stopping power. Before I would have to pump 2 to 3 times to stop decent. Now the brakes will lock up if you hit it hard, Even on the first hit.
I have a slight clunk up front when hitting sharp bumps like driveway transitions, and the rear seems to bottom out pretty easily. The directions don't mention it but you really need to notch the bed support above the axle in order to get the most up travel. All in all, I like the kit and result, but it needs a few tweaks to get just right.
Thank you my guy. I was looking for this info for a while now. I am doing a whole stereo install on my dad's 89 OBS. The whole set up is very similar to yours. Just needed to get the reverse input signal. Thanks to you I'll be able to complete that.
@@Blakes-Garage Kept saying "Light Green! Light Green!" over and over in my head this morning. Made a small cut in the plastic shielding and made a joint solder of the two cables.
Not a big fan of T Taps honestly. Compared to the Japanese and Korean vehicles I've solder in the past this Chevy is very wide open and accessible.@@Blakes-Garage
Got it from Amazon, i guess up to 2006 is close enough size to work. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L32LE4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just some suggestions; 1. Can you set up an aux fuel tank with known good gas 2. If issue started after power seat install did you try going back to stock fuse set up disconnecting power seats? 3. Possibly the distributor snapped a gear causing intermittent timing/staring issue.
i dont have a lift, or an aux pump. I could do it, but i dont have the parts on hand, we reverted the fuse change. it seems to do it either way. i have not checked timing, i will put that on the list.
