nice! this was definitely the video I needed! Been looking for an exhaust slightly louder than stock, i have to do cities and don't want to wake up my neighbours in the morning. Every other video i saw was decat'd Roadsitalia! price/quality/looks i really like this exhaust! so I would leave the db killer in but also modify it like you say ;) Thanks
Hello thanks a lot for the video. I just wanted to ask you if the new exhaust has a significant change in sound compared to stock because even through headphones I can't quite understand it. Compared to the stock is it actually louder? (With CAT without DB killer), based on percentage, how much louder compared to stock? THANK YOU SO MUCH IF YOU ANSWER
Yes, it is a significant change in volume. With cat and without dB killer is probably like 1.5 to 2 times louder than stock. I dont have an accurate db meter to give a quantitative measurement for it.
I have a 2003 honda vtx 1300 s ,here's the ? Can I do that with my please take your time to responde I been looking everywhere and can't find a speedo swap on this bike ,my speedometer shows the miles digitally and speed with needle but is all electric
The 104hp run was done with the dB killer modified as shown in the video. And no, I didnt dyno it with the stock exhaust, as there are alot of other videos out there showing a stock bike on the dyno. I also didnt want to put the stock exhaust back on just to take it off again lol
I have a hurco kmb1 it runs hurco conversational code but i would like it to run gcode somehow. Did your Hurco run conversation code and then your converting that to gcode?
No, the machine in this video was running on straight g code and was not using conversational programming. I was sending it g code via RS232 serial, and there should be a setting somewhere on your machine on the controller to switch it to NC mode. However, if its anything like mine, when you do this, you will loose some settings like tool offsets and work offsets when you change it from conversational mode to NC mode.
Hi, if you just know how you have helped me with the meaning of the numbers 1-5. I didn't know what they presented as these china gauges are confused and everyone is made of each other. Thanks a million. Am in Kenya.
I think I might still have the manual somewhere. I'm in the process of converting the machine to run on a different controller (LinuxCNC). What pages do you need?
@@RailyardProductions Gotcha, well from a usability standpoint, if the stock controller is working well, the conversational programming is very easy to follow, albeit somewhat limited. And as far as machine maintenance goes, it's very similar to a Bridgeport.
Sorry when i ask it in a wrong place. Anybody have a Utility disks for this machine? I need to repleace a hard drive, but i don't have Installation disks for WM1 and BMC30. Sorry for my question.
it doesn't matter how far from centre you mount the magnet. As you set the circunference, it will multiply revs per time (second or minute) by the circunference you've informed before. So, if the circunference is 1 meter and it revs 10 times per second, the speed reading will be 10 meters per second.
When my machine is in the manual mode and x100 and I try to move the Z axis ,the machine automatically switches to x10, all the other axes it stays on x100. Any suggestions?
It's been awhile since I've run this machine, as I don't have access to it anymore. I do remember that the z-axis had a jog rate limit that was lower then there are other axies.
Would be interesting to see how you set up the machine to drop feed from the serial port. I see that it is in "AUTO" mode but not sure how to get the communication going from that point. Thanks!
Depends, if the machine lost power in something like a power outage, then the machine should just be started normally. With this particular machine, it will power off the servos after a certain amount of time, and then servos can be turned on as normal. Hurco's in general are pretty good with telling you what is wrong if its not working correctly.
What can happen if it rains? Water will enter the headlight housing (where there are some electrical connectors) and 'goodbye' operation - momentarily or in time. And problems, big problems ...
@@sv8313 They are not electronics, but I was talking about electrical connectors - there is a difference between electronic parts and electrical parts. The electronic parts are located in other parts, those suffer from the vibrations.
@@sv8313I have met connectors in safe places that have been damaged by water... it is not necessary to ride a motorcycle under water, it is enough to circulate important currents or, for example, some signals with a frequency of kHz.
@@flyingfencepost nobody said it didnt...but, would have been nice to see. Most of those have quite a bit of what you would call "lagg" when the rpm revs...just curious if yours did the same.
I recently purchased a Hurco KM3 and do not have any Pinout info for RS232. Do you happen to have the info on how you made the cable? I have the MIL ports on the back and not sure how to pin them out
Sure thing, I have a complete manual so I believe this is the page that should help you out. My dad built a harness, but that was so long ago I cant remember what the pinouts were. imgur.com/a/yxnlLyl
@@flyingfencepost that's awesome!!! Thanks so much!! What would it take to get a copy of that Manual? I contacted Hurco and even they don't have any info on these old Machines
@@KEBGaming shoot. I don't even know. You could maybe find some on ebay, but otherwise, I could perhaps scan it. Are there specific sections you'd like?
@@flyingfencepost If you could Scan it that would be awesome (Pics are fine). Also what cables did you use to get the USB Connection to the Laptop? I Found the Mil Spec connectors for the Machine, but I need to build the cable not and hopefully end with a USB like yours. Thank you again for your help!!
@@KEBGaming What you need after you build the mil to rs232 cable, is a USB to rs232 adapter. And ok. I'll see if I can scan it. It's pretty big, but I'll give it a try.
Hey man this is a great video! Anyway you could update the link to this specific speedometer? I have the same exact bike and want to install an aftermarket speedometer
Thanks for the tutorial. When you say the red wire is "power to the speedo all the time" what do you mean by that and how would you wire it? Would you just run a wire to the positive terminal of the battery separate from the ignition wire? Wouldn't that drain your battery constantly? Even if you add a switch to this wire I don't see how that's different from the ignition power source. My speedo seems to work fine with just the black ignition wire hooked up and powers on but will my settings not be saved?
I was wondering if the speedometer has a battery inside that needs to be charged to keep the settings and if the settings will be saved if you use the bike constantly.
Its almost like wiring a head unit..you need 12v that comes on with the key..and one that is 12 volt constant to keep clock battery charged. I removed my fairing from my goldwing and that left me with the 2 wires that used to feed stereo in fairing. I used those wired as they are already fused to fused box
Thanks for the info! I've been fighting with this on a bobber i am building from a honda shadow aero lol. This vid got all my issues straightened out! You sir, are a life saver
Thanks! And yeah haha, thats actually just some high frequency vibration that reel steady cant take out cause its too fast, quad has a lot of of mid throttle vibrations.
@@jamestaylor7045 Yeah it's still there on the raw video, but you don't notice it as much cause everything else is moving alot. When you rsgo the footage, it steadys it out and then the jello in the video becomes more noticeable. You can fix it with 1. Camera soft mounts 2. Better tune. 3. (the biggest one) A very clean setup with high quality props and motors.
