I don’t claim to be an expert by any means, I hope the things I share might help somebody else along the way. The archery community is very gracious and willing to help everyone around them. I’m just hoping to give back a little bit.
@@KonstantinMazila UltraView is very popular, but also very expensive. Scott is a reputable company that builds solid products. But honestly, it was on sale and readily available.
Back when I was younger building my own arrows I always glued in the insert last so I could index my fixed broadheads to be the same flight each arrow. Since watching your bend video and trying it this makes the perfect arrows!
@@Outdoorswithmikey It was a simple demonstration. I used my target bow because it’s easier to adjust and I didn’t want to mess with with the tune on my hunting bow.
Very informative videos. Thanks! I now run the bend test when building arrows, and have noticed a pretty crucial parameter. The straightness of the arrow makes a big difference as there is already crookedness built into the shaft. When I bend test shafts with .001 in straightness I get different results each time. For example, Easton X10s are almost impossible to bend test. Otherwise, the bending test is by far the easiest way to check where the spine is.
beware, if you do not order a bow from AF Archery, they are not able to provide customs clearance and transport, pay only after receiving the goods, not in advance, the order is returned without the right to a refund, it is disgusting, you will lose the goods and money, even though I have called them many times, on Sunday, the same error and do not order to the EU . Achtung, wenn Sie keinen Bogen bei AF Archery bestellen, sind sie nicht in der Lage, die Zollabfertigung und den Transport zu übernehmen, zahlen Sie erst nach Erhalt der Ware, nicht im Voraus, die Bestellung wird ohne Anspruch auf Rückerstattung zurückgesandt, das ist ekelhaft, Sie werden die Ware und das Geld verlieren, obwohl ich sie schon oft angerufen habe, am Sonntag den gleichen Fehler gemacht und nicht in die EU bestellt.
I tried my victory xv's in a good quality bar clamp, with exactly the same touch points on each face of the clamps and with a insert/field point in each end... stood it vertically, and got all inconsistent results... super bummed... pressure is even and square to the arrow, but when I rotate the arrow, the bend direction doesn't stay at the marked weak spot of the first bend... any ideas?
im having an issue. my broadhead hits to the left of my field point and first i moved it right and my broadhead hit dead on but my field point hit off to the right, but when i chase the broadhead with my red it just keeps getting further left
@@vtexq4934 While you’re tuning, where the arrow hits in the target is not important. You need to make small movements on your rest until the broadhead and field point hit together, THEN re-sight in your bow.
Is that a PITTSBURGH 1/2 In. Pipe Clamp? Only $7?!? If so, I'm sold. How did you center your divots/points for the tips to fit into? Measure straight off of the bar equally on both sides then a bunch of criss crossing lines? 0_o'
Another thing I do is turn the bare shaft where it tears the worst and tune your bow to bullet hole it, now your bow is tuned for the worst possible direction and shoots the arrows all most anyway if your spine is right. Awesome video
I watched your particular method of the indexing and from what I can get, when you test the bow of the arrow shaft ,the outside bow side is the weak side and the stiffer side is the inside or the other side is the strong side,
I cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong.(I sent a DM with my email address for help). I just purchased a Mathews Lift 33 (upgraded from a V3 29… no problem with arrow flight). I finally have consistent bullet holes with a 450 spine/100 gr field point, but my arrow rest is ALL the way left and ALL the way down. At zero (on the rest) everything was shooting 3” tears to the right. What are my next steps? Anyone have any ideas?
@@FullBoarOutdoors yes, but make sure you spin your outserts to make sure they are spinning perfectly straight. If they are not, it will throw this test way out of whack.
GoldTip Series 22. Little bit of extra diameter for line cutting and would be best for 80 yards, being 7.3gpi and 300 spine. 22 series isn’t going to get blown around like a 26 and 27. Should be able to build a 350gr. arrow. Less hang time to the target 🙂
@@dwightbrown2808 sometimes these helical clamps don’t fit the arrow very well and they don’t hold the fletching down properly. By cutting the end off, you get rid of that high spot that holds the vanes up so they don’t glue properly.
Hey hold up a sec.!!!!!! Other then taking longer by bending arrows, is it not just that you will know which way each Arrow bends..or weakside...Before shooting and twisting?????!! Like, IF...you DONT BEND FIRST and just shoot the shaft......twist 90°........shoot again........Twist 90°.........etc...etc.... Until shooting bullet holes !!........the same dang thing with the same End Results You Want.......rather you bend the shaft or Not?!! Literally, the ONLY THING Different... IS you Know which side is bending compared to where the Nock is facing!! BEFORE you shoot the shaft!!... The Bending is the ONLY thing different!!! You do the exact same thing from first shot on..turn Nick 90° and repeat until you have bullet holes!
@@RakkaSan7219 go watch the next video in the playlist called Proving the Bend Test. The whole idea is to skip the time consuming nock twisting crap. Bend them, mark ‘em, and fletch them. No need to nock tune.
Saw your video and bought a bar clamp set up, drilled pin holes as close to the center of pressure on each clamp as I could. Tested a number of arrows 20 and 21” for my cross bows. I found that the bend in the arrows was consistent and that it was the same no matter the orientation in the clamp, I even swapped arrows end to clamps from one side to the other and bend was the same. I also experimented with rocking the clamp with the socket end and it didn’t change the bend direction of the shaft. I marked the weak side and fletched the cock feather along that alignment. Haven’t done any extensive flight testing but so far very pleased. I really want to get a camera to watch the arrow flight, I have done this with my iPhone and it’s interesting but the resolution is not good enough to be able to easily see any definite variation of flight. Thanks for your work! Oh and I saw no difference in the bend using the clamp set up in the horizontal and rotating the arrow loosening and retightening the clamp.
I call it a win because your processing perfect arrow flight . First of twelve steps of maxing penetration . Troy Fowler aka Ranch Fairy Nock tuning concept brings awareness of why you should first spine test for accuracy , how ever you get there just get there. Great Video shows how shooting paper can teach perfect arrow flight .
Beauty of owning a Bow Tech is you never have to touch the rest and can maintain great clearance by tweaking your cams opposite of what the rest would need to do. And, the movement of the cams is slight compared to moving the rest.
Fill it with spray foam paint it black, but do it in a new location of course but while it's in the straps so it keeps its shape… no need to order a new module😎
You can shine a UV light on the inside of the shaft and see the spine line of the arrow. Regular light works too but it shows up better with UV light. I discovered this two nights ago 🎉
I'm using a delivery carton for a microwave oven, filled with other pieces of corrugated cardboard cut to fit. It's taken about 1k arrows so far and cost me nothing.😁
I’ve always experienced the opposite with paper tears and spines. The weaker 300 spine would always give me a tail right tear and the 250 would give me a tail left. That was out of a bowtech and my current Mathew’s. I’ve also noticed a 300 will give me a tail high tear as well compared to my 250. Good information though. Love your channel.
HOW!?! This is my second Matrix. The first one I bought with my Dad and Brother, and it was a year before the 3 of us tore up a module. It stayed with them when I moved, so I bought this one for myself and it still took over a year for me to tear it up.
@@mat_in_texasI’m with you…these last an extremely long time. I shoot between 6-24 arrows a day depending on time frame, so even on the low side, that’s over 2k arrows a year and mine’s not even close to blowing out.
Cardboard box filled with rubber mulch. The mulch is heavy, but cheaper than I've found for a similar sized target. ~$7/cubic foot. For my 70lb bow shooting ~300fps and 450gr arrows with montec g5 broadheads, I get about 7-10" penetration at 40yd. When the face of the box wears down a bit, I cut a replacement piece of cardboard and slide it in front of the mulch. A proper foam target would absolutely be much nicer, however its hard to beat $30 and a cardboard box on price.
@@mat_in_texas It's definitely not a leave outside in weather option. 😅 I would also say it's no where near as nice as the modular foam type target your video shows. I should emphasize, I only use this for broadheads. I have a bag target for field points. Bag targets, for me and my budget, still make sense for all my target shooting. I have a Morrell Yellow Jacket Supreme that's lasting longer than I thought. Not shooting 1k arrows at it, but also definitely prepping for archery season. The only gap I've had is broadhead targets and tuning - for me the rubber mulch/cardboard box made the most sense as it's not the main target. Also wanted to mention that I've been enjoying your content and presentation style!
@@Sultore Thank you for the encouragement. I keep a Morrell bag target around. They’re good targets too. I was also surprised how long my last one lasted. You don’t really wanna leave them out in the rain either though, they’ll soak up a bunch of water and get so heavy you can’t hardly move them.
What kind of bow weight are you shooting at the rubber mulch target? Thats actually a cool idea. I made one with FlexFoam-It 15 self healing foam, but it was kinda pricey still.
@@ArchersAnonymous-nb4ym It's a Mission Switch at 27.5" with limb screws maxed out. My pull scale says around 67lb. The benefit of the mulch (over diy spray foam) seems to be the lose nature slows the broadhead. I used a box that's about 18"x16"x16" and if I did it again, I'd probably cut and reshape the box to 18"x18"x12" to save on weight. For sure it's no where near as light and portable as a nice foam target, but for people that need to save a few dollars, this is a surprising option that performed better than I thought. For sure if I had the money, I'd get a modular foam target like showcased by mat_in_texas
@mat_in_texas I shoot a bag and a layered target. Prefer the bag. Delta Mckenzie has a solid foam target I thought about trying or the Rhinehart 18 sided target.
@@mat_in_texas I just got 6 new aluminum 27's at my local archery shop. As much as I love those guys I feel like we're leaving some on the table when it comes to accuracy. I'd love to see what you do and if I can easily repeat it myself. Thank you
Just found you this morning trying to fix some tuning issues. My summer target settup was spot on. Swapping over to a heavier hunting arrow and can not get it in tune. I’ll be stopping at Home Depot for a clamp and hiding in the basement shooting through apart tonight lol.
I have always shot 70 lbs and 28.5 inch draw. Used 300 arrows for ever, got a dozen of the 340 spine for free cut them to 26.5 C To C. I had those bare shaft shooting out to 70 yards and fixed blades flew like dart's. I will be messing around with different spine and length from here on out because nothing touched that 340 spine cut down to 26.5 for myself. Penetration was great also.
I tried your spline test as you professionally demonstrated. I shot a 400 axis and couldn’t obtain a bullet hole than switched to a 340 axis and got a bullet hole with my line at the bottom. Thank you.
