That’s a ghetto fabulous Mercedes-Benz no doubt. People live on food stamps buying up Mercedes-Benz and don’t know about maintenance. I see it all the time. Luxury cars have luxury repair bills.
In this instance the vehicle was in an area where the nearest Mercedes specialist shop is more than an hour away. That plus deferred maintenance equals this. I’m going to show it all the love it needs before it goes back to the owner, but to your point…buying a Mercedes and maintaining a Mercedes two different things.
Cept its a benz, overbuilt, so well designed and balanced, not much difference in drivability because all the extra components pick up the slack, like if your tie-rod were to snap, or axle snap, this control arm keeps the suspension together, its so u dont fall to the ground if this happens, other cars would straight drop, these have double the suspension components as american cars, for this reason, they continue the idea of doubling down so u have breathing room engineering wise, there literally doing a ton of safety stuff they dont get recognized for bc its hidden in the guts of the car and only mechanicaly inclined people can appreciate doesnt keep them from selling a quality product, except when american makers copy all there safety tech
Everything fails gradually and people don’t notice the difference until the suspension is replaced. Brand new control arms, bushings…especially rear subframe tie rods etc will make you fall in love with the vehicle all over again.
@@askbascombe you know it man I used to work in a euro shop and probably 40% of the vehicles had issues other then what they were there for that customers ignored. I only drive Benz myself and I keep mine in tip top shape if it needs it it gets it.
Good Morning, I used FCP Euro. The kit at this link has 2 liters of fluid however, 1 should be sufficient to flush the system www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-power-steering-reservoir-replacement-kit-lemforder-0004602383
I'm probably going to run OE pads on my car but it's awesome that you reached out & that Akebono was responsive to the problem! I'm surprised they goofed on those pads considering they're a pretty major player in the brake parts world but I guess everyone can make mistakes...
We come across issues even with the OE manufacturers, fortunately a lot of them are receptive to our feedback and get changes rolled into production quickly.
Hey Kyle, what if I got coolant in my trans but it was probably around a 70% water / 30% coolant mix, was only driven on for a mile or two, and only sat in the transmission for a couple weeks before I caught it? Do you think there's any chance the frictions could survive? I had this happen and flushed the trans several times until the fluid was clean, 2x filter changes, flushed cooler lines, new rad. Car drove great for 1500 miles, never noticed any transmission issues. It's a 2006 E55 and once it made it past the first 1000 miles just fine I figured it was okay and I stopped babying it and have been driving as an AMG should be driven, not beating on it of course but I think you get what I mean. It was driving great. ...until the other day when it started clunking on shifts and within 10 miles later it suddenly lost all gears. I had been driving along just fine, stopped at a light and then when I went to take off it was like it was in neutral. After a second I was able to limp it off the road to the shoulder but the engine just revs and the car barely moves. It did seem a little better after it cooled off as it seemed to drive on & off of the tow truck without struggling too much. I'm thinking my torque converter went out. A day or two before this happened I started hearing a whining/whirring noise that I assumed was the power steering pump going out... also have been noticing a little bit of vibration when pulling away from a stop at low speeds that I just assumed was my failed engine/trans mounts (was actually planning to install new ones today). When I've seen these symptoms on other cars it's been the torque converter. Thoughts?
At the first paragraph I knew there was zero chance this was going to end well. Unfortunately glycol is the silent killer. I’m pretty certain your converter clutch is toast, but unfortunately all of your other clutches are going to start disintegrating as well. Happy to answer any other questions you have!
@@SeamHead33 Definitely use the link on my site to order askbascombe.com/services/1updpto31vddkpwo20yduq9f563wu7 Ship it over at your convenience and I'll take care of you.
Any of the SBC equipped cars are outliers. If I remember correctly they didn’t do SBC hold as standard for US market, you had to unlock it in coding. I’m rusty these days so hope I’m not wrong on that front
@@askbascombe owned way too many W210’s back in the day 🤣🤣 BTW, I’ve shown some of your videos to new MB dealer techs I’ve trained! Helps out the greenhorns identifying older engines and their common problems. Keep up the good work my dude
Did this about 3 & 1/2 yrs ago, so looking to flush it again & get fresh fluid in there again. Fluid was rather clean then & wasn't making much noise to begin with, but history was unknown. Is it foolish to wait until next time to swap out the res & only do a fluid flush this time?
If you’re looking to flush the fluid again, I’d highly recommend going the extra step of replacing the reservoir and o-ring. It adds about 30 extra minutes to the job.
I have this on my 2010 207. Such a finicky feature (at least on mine) that requires an EXTREMELY specific condition of gradually slowing to a stop & doing the extra tap just after applying the most smooth braking execution humanly possible the INSTANT the car has stopped, otherwise it does not engage. Still cool though. Do you know what is actually happening? As in, does it actually engage Park, constant brake pressure applied, etc?
Definitely sounds touchy on yours. I’ve used it on facelift 204/207 and this 212 and it is not as temperamental. It’s just using the ABS/ESP module to apply brake pressure for you, it won’t engage park on the transmission. Only time it will automatically go in park is on a column shift car if you open the door.
@@askbascombe interesting, thanks! Very temperamental indeed & it led me to wonder about my brake fluid (which I understand can be a bit of a topic on these cars.) I was never able to find definitive info on why the genuine fluid is the only fluid listed on the BeVo site. I ran Typ 200 as I know many do/have, & when I switched to genuine, I instantly noticed an overall decrease in performance. I used a motive bleeder every time, making 2 rounds to be thorough & fluid was never more than 2 yrs old.
@RothBeyondTheGrave not gonna lie, ever since you mentioned your issue I’ve been stopping like a complete asshat to see if I could confuse the system 🤣🤣
@noah8260 I’m being jovial, I do not personally find this feature dangerous as I’m always attentive while driving. It’s just another convenient tool in the tool chest just like cruise control or rear view cameras.
@@noah8260 sometimes when I use it, I feel like it could be dangerous if it just doesn't feel like holding anymore actually hahaha.....of course I'm just attentive when using it, but it honestly does feel strange just sitting at a red light & having the car hold itself while applying 0% pressure to any pedal.
I’ve got some tips on the channel for the rear service. It was a RU-vid short on deactivating the electric parking brake and some tips for rear rotor removal. I’ll see if I can find the link.
@@askbascombe pls send link, thanks for the reply btw. Doing my front breaks and rotors today since I got the day off on the 4th. Hopefully you reply with tips for the rear so I can get that done as well 👍🏽
@@askbascombe I mean I know how to replace the brakes and rotors, I’m just confused in one part that’s why I havent done the rear. Once I have my vehicle in the maintenance mode I’m not sure if I have to compress the rear caliper piston, or rotate the piston in. I’ve seen some RU-vid shorts and people say to rotate them in and others say just to compress in….
Hello, thank you very much for your great videos, they are really cool and greetings from Germany, I have a problem. I hope you can help me, I have now installed a new replacement gearbox with converter 722.640 and now I have the problem, before the car shifts into second gear when driving off, the torque converter clutch slams in. So it closes too early/quickly and opens too late. What's going on? The PWM valve has already been replaced. Glycol test is negative. It's an S211 E270CDI.
If you have attempted to readapt the transmission using the software and the problem persists, the valve/valve bore that the solenoid is stroking in the valve body could be worn. You’ll need to drop the valvebody to test/inspect. I believe Sonnax has a good valve body diagram and test guidance for the 722.6
You will need a replacement ribbon cable, you may also need a replacement LCD if the liquid is bleeding out. You can email me for additional details, I also repair these, happy to repair yours if needed!
So technically ill put a full tank of gas put the lever in full then turn it off is that it inhaving the same isaues boss could u help me in the right direction
@@anthony08330 I’ll send you a video on how to set up the gas needle properly, just send me an email kyle@askbascombe.com, fortunately it’s an easy fix.
Ha! Short version is DC/DC converter, DC Bluetooth audio chip based on the CSR8645 platform, old Qualcomm software to write the configuration to the chip and injecting sound directly into the Becker board.
Shoot me a quick email kyle@askbascombe.com and let me know what you have in mind for material, color, stitching etc. Something like the version in this video would start ~$425USD
