What if keep monitoring water temperature through Obd2 with extra monitoring device if temperature gets high than normal you just stop right away . Have you think about that option
My 2008 Prius with 270k is sluggish, rattles all the time and smokes off the tail pipe. Changed coils and spark plugs and PCV valve, still nothing. Any pointers will help.
Thanks for the video. I had a similar problem back in July. Turned out the battery was good, the fuses were good, etc. The battery had been drained because the lights on the car did not turn off automatically as they are supposed to. Also, my gas tank was sitting on empty. The fuel gage is a little off and doesn't register what the actual gas tank is holding right away. It was reading that I had more gas than I actually did. Now I must be sure to turn off the lights when I use them before I leave the car. I also make sure to keep the gas at at least 1/2 full. Plus I have a full gas container in the car for the "just in case" times. I live in an area that has both populous and unpopulated areas which can be tricky if I need gas. Now, here's my current problem. I've had a "Maintenance Required" message come on the dashboard of my car for the past 2 weeks. The first week it only came on for a short while right after turning the car on and then went away. The second week it came on and stayed on for the duration of the car being on. Then yesterday, the gear shift went from D to N right after I had filled the tank and left the gas station - right in the middle of traffic! I pulled over and stopped it, turned the car off, then restarted it. It seemed ok. But I drove to a place where I could pull over and check the fluids. The oil was ok, albeit a little darker than usual and the amount was where it was supposed to be. The power steering and automatic transmission oils also looked ok. The air vent was partially blocked so I cleared it out as much as I could. The car seemed fine and I was able to drive it home with no issues. (I got the car around 6 months ago and the previous owner had just changed out all the fluids, got new oil and a new oil filter, etc.) But. Last night when I moved my car to a different parking spot, it continued to switch to N whether in D or in R. It took me some maneuvering and time to finally repark the car. So, I read up on similar issues on a Prius Chat forum and watched some videos. What I gathered is that the gear shifter is going bad. I don't know why. It's been running fine, except when there's a tall speed bump or uneven road, I tend to scrape the bottom of the car because it is so low to the ground. So, my question is why is my gear shift slipping out of gear from D or R to N? And how do I get it to stop? Or do I need to replace the gear shift? I could take it into a mechanic and get charged a lot of money (which I don't have), or I could fix it if it's as easy to fix as some on YT say. Thoughts?
Really just need to keep the filter for the battery clean to keep it from overheating. Toyota designed this well. In general, people don't do any of these things and the Prius after 2010 all get 300k miles with reg maintenance
You have to drive your hybrid car at least three times a week and exercise the battery. If it just sits there and watch TV, it will put on weight and get diabetes.
How much brake fluid is typically needed? I drained the brake fluid in the reservoir after taking it out of the car and after plugging in the high volt and 12v and turning the car on, I've had to refill it many times. I only bought 64 oz but I'm already at the half mark without doing a brake bleed yet. I don't see any leakage along the brake lines. Any ideas? Is this normal? How much brake fluid do I need? I've since unplugged the 12V and high volt to prevent more of it draining before I know.
American that lives in Europe now. Gas is $6 a gallon in Finland and Automatic cars are 2-3,000 more expensive than Manuals. Can still find Gen 2 Prius for 3-5,000. I'm eyeing some now.
You haven't understood hybrids from Toyota and you make a video with some hints. First of all, driving in neutral is deeply irresponsible and while in neutral you're trusting the brakes only given that the HSD system makes a combined use of the brakes and the electric engine when driving normally, not in neutral. Even the manual (at list in 3 gen's) says that you shouldn't use the neutral position except for towing and maintenance. Maybe you're saving some battery (not so sure of that), but you're increasing the wear of the brakes and the danger for you and everyone else. Secondly, battery fluctuation is normal and these cars are designed for that. If you can't deal with it you should drive a combustion vehicle. When the battery is fully charged or fully discharged that's not real because the electronics of the car set that limits before they're really reached, I don't remember the exact values, so the car itself won't let you do that. When the battery shows full it gives the power to the combustion engine, that's why you can hear it revving, but the battery is not really full. Same thing on the other side, the car starts the engine way before the battery is really getting empty. The only thing I agree is that these cars want to move, they shoudn't be sitting for long time because the battery may discharge below the lower limits. It damages the battery and you could even have problems to start the car. In brief, you can drive normally, the car knows what to do to manage the energy and protect the battery, she'll be smarter than you, believe me.
I've had to fix this issue twice in my 2012 prius (now has 207k miles) and the second time around was a little different and was driving me nuts. Ended up finding out after I replaced both the spark plugs and ignition coils that my accessory battery was bad as my scanner continued to show a misfire. Once I replaced the battery, the rattling and code was gone. I'm guessing this is due to not enough power getting distributed to the ignition coils and causing issues... I live in DFW area of TX so i'm sure the cold Winter temps didn't help out so much over the past couple years and shortened the accessory battery life. TLDR - make sure to test your accessory battery after replacing spark plugs / ignition coils. If you continue to get a code after doing all of these, try swapping your coils or spark plugs into different cylinders to test if the code changes and one of the replacement coils or plugs are bad.
I have a 2019 Toyota corolla hybrid in Eastern Europe, and I too noticed that every time start driving my car without warning, it consumes first kilometer times three. I don't warm up because I'm not in cold climate country, also I don't ever gun it so as soon as I turn it on, the needle goes to 1.500 rpm and taking off gradually still doesn't move the needle up. But it is good idea to warm up 30 to 60 seconds I guess.
I have a 2019 Toyota corolla hybrid in Easter Europe. I've had it for four years or so. Only few days ago, I found out that optimal speed for these cars are 80km/h or 55 mph. Around at that time I almost ran out of fuel because I'd always measure my fuel consumption, got that fuel at BP for the first time, not Shell last four years, all of sudden I started getting much better consumption. I don't know why that is, is it because of better fuel quality, or better speed which is now 55 mph. I would always drive 60/70 km/h or 40 mph and would get 4 liter or 55 mpg, now I'm getting freaking 3.2 to 3.5 liters which is 75 mpg. I would normally drive slow for the sake of less wind resistance to save fuel, but I noticed driving right around 80 kmh-55 mph also helps charge the hybrid battery faster. If it keeps doing this I don't know what I'm going to do with all these money that's being saved now.
The gen 2 is what I have here in UK & is my favourite out of them all. It's still euro4 emmision class so exempt from our London ultra low emission zone charge, that is untill Sadiq Khan moves the goal posts to euro 5 minimum then unfortunately i would have no choice but to upgrade to a gen 3.
For a Camry 2018 with Nickle battery, putting a lithium on the XLE trim are they no ECu change or something to know the temperature or control of the lithium different from Nickle
Nice tutorial to understand how things basically work but sounds like a whole bloody ritual which few people would want to do. Like I do care about my cars and drive them in let’s say a healthy mode but this is too much even for me.
Ok Kid, you haven't learned to shave yet but somehow got your Electrical Engineering degree by buying 200 priuses. The Engineers at Toyota never figured out battery management, despite the fact that some of these cars last up to 300,000 miles. While some of your tips make sense, you have no idea what you're talking about as far as battery management. Learn to shave first before you give the rest of us advice on cars. Ciao.
How do i know if the brake actuator or the booster are bad. My brake booster constantly goes on making noise but i dont have problems with my brake even tho the abs light is on
