Hi and welcome to the channel. Here you will find content for Electic UniCycles EUC,s even some fun games I used to play. Sometime a surprise video of Motorbikes.
I am having binding issues on the Extreme now too. They have become progressively worse. I believe it is a combination of what you have demonstrated here, and dust/dirt. I am going to disassemble and see if I can figure it out. I think the suggestion for a plug at the bottom is a good one too.
@@Audiboxx depends on perimeters and infill % It does add a bit of weight. Especially the handles up top. I have discovered the wheel can be re stabilized by shifting this front battery forward ~15mm. As it was back heavy before. I really like how it is now.
@@jc84com I am confused, what perimeters and infill do you recommend? I dont understand how complex this is to put on. Am I going to take apart the whole frame? Does it align with the screw holes of the euc?
@@Audiboxx it I designed for a v4 master, v1/2/the frame is a little different. I don't know all the differences as manufactures don't disclose the changes. My parts are all aligned to the v4 frame. I made my front handles about 280grams each at 6 walls 6 top bottom 70% infill 0.6nozzle 0.3 layer height. Its a compromise between weight / stiffness. I offset the weight by shifting the front batteries 20mm forward on current build once the whole unit is built to have symmetric weight distribution.
Well down Julian , I'm Sparky by Trade, and you have done well, very interesting setup. Love to see how you wired up the EBB36 to the extuder, as Marlin is going down the same path with adding this to their boards.
OK - This is helpful. I have a new Master V4. The suspension arrived with very sticky action. After watching your video I pulled the seat and trolly handle out and measured .015" (.318mm) out of round at the top clamp. So before even riding it, I will be pulling it apart to shim that top clamp and machining a plug for the bottom to keep things round. Thanks!
Not shown in video re aligning the H-bar has a big impact too, normally if you have loosen the top clamps top, h-bar middle and motor clamps bottom. loose and tighten them all slowly it aligns pretty good And becomes smoother as the bushing wear in too.
Factory stock master is 70mm travel And use the 70mm handle config. 100mm master, when you install custom +30mm longer stanchion poles to accommodate more travel (100mm). It adjusts the position of the batteries -18mm from the top and +12mm up from the pedals. That should explain the 70mm and 100mm
@@jc84com Did you just paste some velcro on the battery to get those pads on there? I sure hope the stock pads still fit after I put these roll cage handles on my Master. I dont know how to get other pads on without buying a whole new pad system.
@@Audiboxx you'll have to cut the corner bends off the stock pads and add some Velcro. Yes my pads are held on with Velcro, clean the boxes and pads with isopropyl, dry and adhere.
They require a bit of work to use. As in you need to get laser cut. But if you interested I can sell you the plans cheap to test. So far my tests have been awesome and they are excellent no issues.
@jc84com idk about laser cut but I have a friend that does custom work locally. He's made linkages for the ex30 and master pro. I bet he could make them for me. How do I get ahold of you?
You can't, a better mod is to use the more advanced T4 pedal hangers as out of the box they are all ready approx 18mm shorter. The T4 is a more refined BEGODE wheel
Unlikely, as I only own x2 BEGODE wheels. These are designed for the master and are custom too, they require a slot cut in the pole. They have been made to accommodate 100mm suspension travel and extra clearance from the tyre on bottom out.
I'd recommend 3d printing some TPU spacers where you see the threads visible. This will a) protect the threads b)give you something to compress against, otherwise those bolts might work themselves loose. Over time, you will tighten them which will eventually deform the bolts. Looks great.
I don't have them listed yet And if I did it would be plans only for you to manufacture yourself. I'm on the fence on how to release as a few considerations. They require you to cut a slot in your tubes at the end as well as some changes in the battery hanger.
I don't have a Master but my first thought was to use a compression plug inside the tube, at the clamping points. Playing with spacers will reduce deformation but sacrifice clamping force. It's basically like riding with loose bolts.
Nice design, I did something similar but with a slightly different approach. I am looking to see if I can eek out even more suspension travel from my Master and came across your video. I am a bit concerned about the strength of your design where it interfaces with the stanchion tube. The use of 3D printed parts rings alarm bells as I don't think it will clamp onto the tube tightly enough. Probably ok for street but I think you might have some issues if you try jumping. Would be better if you machined these parts.
Hey thankyou. Glad you like it I went this design route because lasercutting is 20x cheaper than CNC. Getting flat plates to mount to a round object is challenging. The 3d printed part is just a guide. And not structural. All the strength is in the 1 bolt that protrudes through 'both' sides of the stanchion poles compared to just 1 side on the BEGODE factory setup. So that's something to consider. Keen to see what you designed. Almost ready to release this. Has been working amazing with m5 bolts but have since upgraded CAD designs to m6's
@@jc84com This video shows what I did. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NtrldW7PCJc.htmlsi=Wy0Q62_1azaXMqM5. The Master is actually a great platform for modding I think. Partly due to the fact that it was a bit rubbish as stock and needed modification to make it better. 😂. You have taken the mods to the next level. Yours looks badass too. My mods were entirely functional.
@@jc84com The Master is a great platform to upgrade. The torque and speed are pretty much all you need unless you're racing but the stock suspension (and all pretty much all euc suspension, except maybe S22) is junk as stock, ok for street riding but not good enough for off road. Terrible geometry and they seem to lie about the available suspension travel. I increased the suspension travel on mine to around 125mm and came across the same issue with the pedal hangers rubbing/cutting into the tyre. I detailed my suspension mods in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NtrldW7PCJc.htmlsi=N60BJVobIBg8Ci4M if you're interested. Keep up the great work modding your Master, it looks badass!
@@eyeinthesky3013 I agree the manufactures BEGODE are extremely deceptive with suspension travel and specs of their hardware. How anyone can think a rubber grommet is included in suspension travel is anyone's guess but they do it and get away with it. The average user doesn't care and has no idea what's going on And if the manufacture are doing this on suspension just think of all the other components.
