Here at Auto Paint Plus, we want to show our viewers what we do to ensure our customers satisfaction with our service, products, and the outcome of whatever project they are working on. After two decades of hard work and becoming one of the leading paint suppliers in the Northern Idaho/Eastern Washington area, we have gathered quite a large customer base, many of which are incredibly talented in their fields of work. We are excited to show you the amazing work our customers do and the many areas our products are used, as well as how they excel in each of those areas. We will also be showing video demos of many of our products, as well as "how to" videos on helpful tips and tricks to help you simplify and speed up your own projects!
one thing I did for my airless was get an old plywood plank and started to staple those free brown paper and cardboard from packages to it then I can tear off the paper as I use it and I don't have to "store" the paper
I have to say this is the best informational video on how to use a spot blender I have found. Your responses to the other questions have been great too! I would like a little clarifier. Do I need to sand off the old clear coat on the rest of the paneling that I am not doing a repair on or does the spot blender save you time on not having to sand it? Also, do you apply the spot blender over the new clear coat as well?
Thank you! We’re glad you found the video helpful! You will still need to sand the whole panel in order to get proper adhesion for the blender but you don’t need to sand all the clear off, just a light scuff with 600 grit will work great, making sure there are no shiny spots. This specific blender is not for using on top of fresh clear. There is a different blending agent that is used to blend fresh clear coat into existing clear coat, but that is typically used when doing small, spot blends.
General Paint, our paint supplier, is an OEM paint line, so it has pretty much any OEM color you would need. This clear is recommended for high production shops. It’s not really cost effective for large projects, it’s made to get vehicles or parts out of the booth and ready to deliver as fast as possible, without sacrificing quality.
For the price, they’re not too bad. If you’re looking for an inexpensive gun, the best replica gun we’ve sprayed so far is the Avalon WLS400. Unless you’ve used an Iwata LPH400 for a long time, you probably wouldn’t notice the difference between the performance of the Avalon and the Iwata.
@@autopaintplusid4197 I have the Iwata Wider4 and some how I have damage the nozzle so im looking for new gun. I did order the x-2020 (85USD including shipping) Its an updated version of the SK-2020 you use in the video. I have seen the Avalon WLS400 and the split nozzle design looks cool and maybe I was just stupid that I wanted to give this gun a try
It’s a high build polyester primer, it’s not going to lay out like clear coat. It’s meant to give you a thick consistent layer for you to easily block out any imperfections, so you’ll be sanding that orange peel down anyway.
The primer is a just a 1K sealer, the color is from GenRock put in a Spray Max can, the clear is a 2K Glamour Clear from Spray Max, and the Spot Blender is also from Spray Max.
Great video. I've never heard about spraying the pattern horizontally to check that the volume is even. That's a great tip. I've had some trouble with tiger striping at times and I think this will be very helpful. I'm usually around 30 psi at gun with single stage acrylic enamel. Is that about right for that type of paint?
Good advice. I set my pressure at the air compressor's outlet but didn't realise the gun itself may not be letting enough air through so I'll try opening it right up. The manuals for these aren't great, they tell you what the adjusters are for but not quite what they do like you have here, thank you.
This was awesome! I was literally going to my DIY booth to spray some primer for about the 2nd time and remembered that I’ve never really sat down and learned the dialin process. Thanks for putting this together!
This isn’t meant to replace primer, it’s meant to replace glazing putty. Instead of doing a skim coat with a spreader you do it with a gun. It has a lot of the same properties as feather fill but this product has better film build and it sands far better than feather fill does.
Im still learning. I laid down some epoxy primer and it came out great. I laid down black urethane and it was textured! I probably need to mess with the knobs and also my spray tips.
There are a few possible reasons it would do that. Incorrect air pressure, wrong size fluid tip, incorrect reduction ratio, etc. Check your air pressure, tip size, and your fluid adjustment knob. If it’s non of those, it’s most likely a reduction or application issue. Hope that helps!
I have to agree with some of the comments, a short and to the point video great for beginners which I am too. Thank you. Did not think to pour some thinners into the gun and test the fan pattern before paint is used. A question though, will the fact that paint would be a bit more thicker than thinners will that drive the need to adjust the gun for paint or am I over complicating/thinking it? T
We usually use thinner when we have a lot of adjusting to do, like a new gun out of the box or after disassembling the gun. You’ll need to do minor adjustments when you put your paint in the gun as well.
Would you recommend this spray filler with 1/4 inch dents, tiny holes, and welding imperfections? Car was in a wreck and I'm making a project to restore it (96 Camaro). Good with my hands but not a pro at this type of stuff and saving time is always a plus.
You want to do the main body work with a standard filler first and get everything reasonably straight then follow it with the spray filler. It’s like using a glazing putty, just more effective than trying to spread it evenly with a spreader.
I can just tell by looking at that quarter panel that it is not straight at all? It definitely needs a nice evenly spread coat of filler and blocked out nicely before spraying any of that on there. Doing the filler work really good is a much better way to go that loading this stuff on so it can crack down the road. Just speaking from experience after doing high quality restoration work for over 30 years.
I think you misunderstood what this product is. This is body filler. But instead of spreading a coat of filler by hand, which will be uneven no matter how hard you try, you are spraying it through your gun to ensure even coverage over the entire surface. This isn’t changing the body work process, just how you apply you products.
Can acetone be used as a cleaning agent? Planning to run acetone through my new gun. First timer. Have two fenders and a good to paint. Great video thanks!
We’re glad you enjoyed the video! Acetone will work ok but it evaporates really quickly. We recommend a virgin lacquer thinner to clean your gun after spraying. Good luck!
Not quite, it has a much higher build than a high build primer and sands nicer. It would be similar to doing a skim coat with glazing putty, but instead of spreading it your spraying it. That way you end up with an even amount on the panel.
One of the more better more proper techniques is about 30% base paint if its not a metallic. Metallics U go a little heavier. If U have an average cheapo gun usually 2 coats is norm and look for oppies misses can come back to bite ya. There are problematic areas when mirrors are left in place as well as where wheel arches stand out notably some of the Fords Hyundai cars got them wheel arch areas that make ya back yourself up some so the gun doesn't give U any mercy as you back away from the panel to readjust your body. This stuff is perfect to make sure you got some color already in the areas. Some times if there is still paint on the panel or car I just concentrate on the worked areas and those sunken areas by the wheel arches is all I do with the stuff and that will save U time & money in the material if U pick up the habit of noticing there are only certain areas that really require this product. Otherwise U can even tint cheap primers too. This stuff also has thickness a body to it as to fill pores and slight sanding marks. Painting a whole panel is one thing but not necessary where there is still the same color present. I mainly use this stuff where I put the body work or got down to bare metal or I got areas where the clear coat peeled up & sanded a heavier. That is what this product is for as opposed to doing whole panels and bumper covers. I mean if its a totally new bumper cover no body work I will just tint a cheap primer sealer it saves cash and comes out fine. It is where body work is right smack in the middle of the original paint is where this product is intended to be used.
Sadly we can’t ship outside our designated boundaries but there are a lot of auto paint stores that sell similar products! I would look around your area and see if there are any near you!
Hello good sir I'm actually trying to look for a good quality matching paint company in a can for sure I will be using the company I choose very often but my number one thing is definitely on how fast I can get the paint that's a big thing because of my customers
Sadly we don’t ship outside of our are in North Idaho/Eastern Washington. If you go to lusidtechnologies.com you should be able to find if there is a supplier in your area!
Best video I've seen so far, thanks. I'm spraying acrylic in garage for the first time and I don't want to waste any of it. Definitely going to spray some thinners through gun to set up before putting basecoat down!!!
So.. I'm "guessing" that THAT polyester primer you are plugging here in the vid IS completely designed to go over bare metal TOO? (Unlike lotta/most polyester primers).... NOT a lick of Epoxy Sealer on there 😬. BEST of luck with that, and mother nature/time/adhesion/hold up etc. NOT hatin, just statin. Happy Restoring! 😎🤘
