I finally got around to putting something up about using alcohol inks as a wood stain. Full demonstration: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-33DpETeB7BE.htmlsi=dHu_ok9sQj2ZcJzK
Nice sign! Just a thought... I typically run a light score to the base material to mark where my pieces go. Just copy your cuts and assign the copy to a different layer and at lower power. This would save you an enormous amount of headache and time.
It would! Unfortunately, my laser bed isn't large enough to fit the base into. The area of my laser is about 16" square and the base of the sign is 32" in diameter. I do use that same technique on smaller signs. Generally, I will use the offset tool in lightburn to make the score guideline just barely smaller than the piece I'm going to glue on, ensuring that the score line will be covered by the piece I'm gluing on, if that makes sense.
I use cardboard from boxes like for what you used the posterboard for, it's much sturdier. I also use it to test cut a lot of times with instead of wasting wood. Just throwing that out there. 😊
Great tips! I've had several colors of alcohol ink and now I have more uses for it than resin products. I've been building inventory for wood working, machinery and the wood. I am wanting a large Co2 Laser now, LOL! I just have a Sculpfun S30 so far. I am still learning myself. It is super fun!
I loved this video and tried it myself. I ended up having "micro-cracks" in the glaze of the tile. Did you experience the same thing? I ran a test from 300-2000mm/m and 50-100%. All had the cracks
This comment made me go out and inspect a couple of the trivets I have in the kitchen and no, I haven't experienced any cracks in the glaze. I wonder if it's a difference in the tile manufacturers? The ones I'm using are the common ones at Menards that they sell by the piece.
005 the mass of servos CAN/should be located nearer to the cg line. why is the keel so tall/deep.? the mass of the keel does contribute to stabilization; but it also acts as a very over-sized vert-stab and it increases tail-heaviness in the dom. small servos are being used with Large control surfaces.! Normally, elevators/elevons should be located Outboard, not inboard. are the leading edge 'dowels' CF. if so, the outboard and aft-of cg location of the Mass adversely affects the dom and stability, and roll axis control authority. 058 when an electric prop is noisy, something is WRONG. typically, the wrong thing is the use of the wrong Type of prop for the application. you are using a SF prop. the excessive prop noise indicates that a stiff E prop should be used, instead. d
The keel is the size of the original plans found on rcgroups in the foamies section, as is the servo location. I’ve found “prop-in-slot” designs to generally be noisier than most other designs. It’s not necessarily a function of the prop type, but the air disturbances caused by the slot. Really common, just as pusher-prop designs are louder than puller-prop designs. Here is the original thread on rcgroups: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1685988-SUPER-EASY-great-flying-foamy It isn’t a design that is made for super high performance. It’s just a good, stable flyer that is simple to build and a lot of fun to fly. This is the second one I’ve built and I’ve found that it’s a great one to get up in the air, get some good altitude, and then hand the controls to a beginner. Go check out the thread.
It was fairly light for the ballast I had in, but it would gust occasionally. I would say 8mph with gusts to 14 or so. That's a pretty shallow and short little hill and far from ideal, but my friends that live in the house right there wanted to see how a slope soarer works so I obliged ...... within the limit of my abilities. 🙂
Very cool. Have you ever had the need to re-seal the tile over the engraving, with e.g. ceramic nano finish? How do the inks stand up to repeated use/washing?
I’m going to have to admit that I don’t have answers for these questions. I’ve treated them like I do Norton White Tile method tiles…… that is, I’ve not done any sealer. They haven’t faded any, at least not yet. I suppose they would fade or bleed if exposed to alcohol as they are alcohol based inks. I do know that the alcohol inks are pretty resilient. The few times I’ve gotten some on my skin, it takes a LOT of scrubbing to get it off, even if I do use alcohol to scrub with.
bit of bad luck it was going great . but anyway please dont think the battery is safe after a couple of hours i had one blow last week it got damaged and i left it sitting on the bench for a year before it went yer i know i should have got rid of it ages ago had a clean up after that
Nice to see someone finally fess up to pilot error for once but you know what we all like to push the limits and fly beyond our comfort zone and this is why ever Rc Pilot who is trying to improve and understand aeronautics better needs to take risk now and then and thats why we should all have a few basher planes for this very reason.
To use on wood, I generally dilute it with denatured alcohol. I'd like to tell you an exact ratio, but it really depends on how intense you want the color. I will say that a little bit goes a long way. I apply it with a cheap disposable foam brush. Depending on the color and intensity, I may do more than one coat. It dries really quickly and is ready for a top coat or to be cut within 15 minutes or so.
In case you still needed info, I just made a video demonstrating using alcohol ink as a wood stain. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-33DpETeB7BE.htmlsi=dHu_ok9sQj2ZcJzK
I just saw you video on the lahobbyguy forums and commented there too. I commenting here so it will help you with the channel some. Great idea and I'm going to try it soon. You mentioned your numbers but what wattage are you using? Thanks
Nice work! When the tile gets wet is there any running of the colors? I find that using Sharpies with your method there is a bit running of the color when rubbing the moisture with a cloth. In the Norton Method the tile substrate is actually burnt so it doesn't run,
I knew there was a bit of bleed with Sharpies and water, but your comment made me curious about the alcohol ink as I hadn't tested it. I just took a tile over to the sink and scrubbed a dyed area with a scrub brush and the color stayed put. I kind of figured as much since the alcohol dyes are advertised as waterproof and any time I've accidentally gotten a bit on my finger, it hasn't disappeared until new skin takes it's place. 🙂
Happy to hear that you are enjoying the Stratosurfer! Your video makes me want to fly. Really cool about the Oregon trail. Have you ever tired using a metal detector to see what you can find out there? Nice landing too!
Thanks! I haven't personally taken a metal detector out there, but there are plenty who have and many of their findings are in museums in our area, the most extensive of which is about 10 miles west of this flying spot. www.nps.gov/places/000/ash-hollow-state-historical-park.htm
I’ve been pleased with it and enjoy the way it flies. I would recommend not waiting and getting the flaps installed as it helps a lot on take off and landing. From the factory the horizontal stab is a bit loose, in my opinion, but that hasn’t really effected flight. Still, I’ve gotten a piece 3D printed that I think will help. Other than that, I have no complaints at all and would buy it again.
@@bobjosjor8307thanks for the video! I just picked one of these up. Haven't built it yet, but did a rough assembly to see how everything fits and I also noticed the tail being much more loose than I like. I was thinking about glueing it but would much prefer a 3D print. What did you use to help stiffen it up?
@@michaelkryszak5262 , do a search on thingiverse.com and there is a good tail brace there. I don't have a 3D printer, but I know someone locally that has one. I paid them to make the print for me and it was pretty cheap.
