Color filling white tile using a laser and alcohol ink 

That's one of the nice things about experimenting with tile projects: The tile is cheap. :-) I think these larger ones were about a buck each.

I think I mentioned it at the end, but it's an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt laser. Thanks for checking it out!

​@@bobjosjor830720W Diode laser at 30mm/s?

I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!

I’m going to have to admit that I don’t have answers for these questions. I’ve treated them like I do Norton White Tile method tiles…… that is, I’ve not done any sealer. They haven’t faded any, at least not yet. I suppose they would fade or bleed if exposed to alcohol as they are alcohol based inks. I do know that the alcohol inks are pretty resilient. The few times I’ve gotten some on my skin, it takes a LOT of scrubbing to get it off, even if I do use alcohol to scrub with.

I always spray a couple of coats of clear lacquer to seal mine and protect the colours. It works very well.

I believe I used my Insta360 Go 3 on this one, however I might have been using my iPhone 15.

@@bobjosjor8307 Thank you

I knew there was a bit of bleed with Sharpies and water, but your comment made me curious about the alcohol ink as I hadn't tested it. I just took a tile over to the sink and scrubbed a dyed area with a scrub brush and the color stayed put. I kind of figured as much since the alcohol dyes are advertised as waterproof and any time I've accidentally gotten a bit on my finger, it hasn't disappeared until new skin takes it's place. 🙂

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try your method.

To use on wood, I generally dilute it with denatured alcohol. I'd like to tell you an exact ratio, but it really depends on how intense you want the color. I will say that a little bit goes a long way. I apply it with a cheap disposable foam brush. Depending on the color and intensity, I may do more than one coat. It dries really quickly and is ready for a top coat or to be cut within 15 minutes or so.

It’s an xTool D1 20 watt diode laser.