Thank you so much sir. Been very helpful in helping with the reading of the pages and the usage of the right bolts and washers. Saved me much time. Btw I believe you have the butt cushions and back cushions reversed.
Hey Paul, thank you so much for your Body Solid videos! Very much appreciated! I used your gym assembly videos, and I love this video!! you made it so simple for a complete beginner o start using Body Solid gym, thank you very much!
Its really good to see a video like this. There are almost no resources for the cr-10 S5 and most who have one, or manage to find one now are all left with guess work. Ive personally had a ton of luck with the glass bed and rubbing a glue stick where the print will be. But ive also heard that a glue stick is basically just a crutch for people like me with a poor Z-offset lol. But hey, if it works, it works. Any other issues you may have come across and solved, id be down to watch that video too. Thanks man, liked and subscribed.
Thanks for the video. I recently got this printer which was used once or twice according to the person I got it from. So far my impression is that it is junk. Bed won't heat above 64 and it is impossible to level. I'm banging my head on the wall. Any idea where to start? I should have done my research, I assumed an $1100 machine would be auto-leveling. This is my 2nd Creality machine, and I am not impressed.
Your video is a few years old, and still helping people like me. I've been struggling with CAM decision for a long while. Was leaning VisualMill due to perpetual license and their pricing transparency. When testing it, much was not especially intuitive for me (after the setup). I, seemingly like you, fall into the purely hobby user, and I've also not been able to invest the time you have into trialing each program. Thank you for sharing. I don't like the idea of subscription-based, but will give HSMWorks a hard look, based on your shared findings. Thank you, again!!
I know this is a relatively old post but here's some of my comments after having dealt with this printer for 5~6 years: I think my CR-10S5 (generic brand) is about 5 or6 years old and it came with a stepper on both sides of the gantry, unless I modified it and forgot about it(?).... I seem to recall that some of the early versions did not have dual steppers. 1:03:04 It's a natural conclusion to believe that your bed is crowned because it's "tight" in the center but over time I realized that when you move the extruder hot end to the center of the gantry rail the weight of it actually bows the gantry. I have exactly the same results that you have when I level my bed. It's always "tight" in the middle. This observation alone has prevented me from upgrading to an all metal hot-end with direct filament feed because I believe the problem will be worsened if the gantry has to carry the carriage and a stepper motor atop it. I'm also an E.E. retired from Northrop Grumman (first employed by Grumman before the merge in the 90's) after 38 years! I believe that you're likely in Florida by looking at the background. I'm in the Tampa Bay area.
After watching these videos this just proves body solid is not solid. How can they make something with absolute garbage of instructions. They made this 2000% harder than it needs to be.. Brutal
If you buy an car designed for unleaded gasoline, then put diesel gas in it and it runs poorly - don't do a youtube video complaining about the performance.
So all the collapsed rubble in this video is outside the building. That’s definitely the planter box and plants. Someone told somebody to remove the palm trees. I would like to hear them say why the trees were removed.
Just finishing assembling my EXM2500 and couldn't figure out how to attach the cable to the leg extension. Thank you so much for your explanation around 36:00! It did not occur to me to take the endcap back off the leg extension and put the locknut inside there. The drawing was pathetic in this area. I also found the bolt is too short, and skipped the washer. For the EXM2500, there is an assembly manual on-line that is WAY better than what comes with the unit, and is almost sufficient. I was also missing the bolt/nut that goes through the weight stack bar to keep the cable end from escaping if there's slack.
I know this is an old video, but I have a printer like this now and it has the silicone heater bed on it, but the motherboard isn't reading it. says the temp is -14 degrees and refuses to start print. what could be causing this? when I plugged the old heater back in, it fix that error. any ideas?
Not sure what you mean Seth. If you are saying you bought a used printer that has a full-bed external heater like this, well what you are seeing makes sense. This external heater has it's own box and plugs into the wall separately. When you remove the "old heater" that was originally with the printer, the control box can no longer read the temperature, that is done by the external control box for the big bed heater. What I do is make sure the bed heat is stable and where I want using the little external box. Then I go into the Creatlity control program where it lets you over-ride the temperature settings for bed and nozzle. If it lets you set it below -14, that should "fool" the Creality control box into thinking the bed is up to temperature, and the print will start. Otherwise, you might connect a resistor between the pins on the socket on the Creality control box, so that the control box will see a positive temperature. If you pick the resistor so that the box thinks the bed is hot enough, the print will start as long as the nozzle temperature gets high enough. Otherwise, any temperature that you can over-ride by hand, so maybe the box thinks it is 28 degrees, you go into the setting and make the print bed temperature 25 degrees. The big deal is that the real bed temperature is set with the little box that comes with the full-sized bed heater, and you plugged it in and waited for the little box to show the bed is at the temperature that you set it. I hope this helps. Adding a separate bed heater is a bit of a hack, and you have to hack some other things to get the print started.
@@Rako_Studios That makes sense, I knew the orange box was controlling the heat of the bed, I just couldn't figure out how to get the control box to not read -14. I plugged in the old bed and it fixed it obviously, but the moment I took it off again, it went right back to -14. I'll try and see if I can fool the box into thinking -14 is right, but I want to say when I tried last time, it only let me get to 0 and wont let me go under that temp.
This is the type of person where you go in and ask a question, and he can carefully extract a single sheet of paper from the stack and hand you the answer before you even finish asking the question. Every institution of great engineering needs a few of these guys. But in the case of Bob, he sure was special. We are in debt to this man's genius and his caring about others.
There is a story about Bob that reflects your comment perfectly. A fellow engineer wanted to see just how good Pease could remember what was where. So he went into Bob's office and asked for some obscure document, I think it was a bond-out diagram for an old old chip. Pease looks at the stacks, goes to one, digs down towards the bottom and pulls out the diagram. Impressed, the engineer makes a copy, and hands the diagram back to Bob. He notes that Bob just put it on top of another stack. The engineer waited six months, went back to Bob's office, and said he lost the diagram and he needed to see the original again. To his amazement, Bob went to the new stack which by this time had the diagram about two inches down, and plucked out the page.
@@Rako_Studios I 100% believe this. My anecdote I’ll offer here is that while I was an undergraduate student at the U of A, I went down to the basement of SORAL and started looking around for help with a coax connector. I went in a random office which was every bit as awesome as the one in this video. I asked the oracle my question. Dr. Robert Freund stood up from his SPARC station and withdrew a single sheet of paper out of an enormous pile. The sheet was on my exact question.
Perfect, this is real useful. Two issues to double down on. The silicone pad has a power cable made of the same rubbery stuff, and a data cable. These need to exit where they are connected from to the SIDE, not the back or front or they will interfere with the printer carriage rollers. Second and even more important: The bed needs be raised up a bit. Add a washer or two more than what it came with, in order for the rear cut-out portion of the bed aluminum frame to properly clear the rear Y stepper mother. Also I have not really figured out how to detach the stock heater from the CR-10 control box and still make it think that it's there. So right now it's like a vestigial organ just hanging off the control box, dialed down to 20 degrees to keep it cool. The silicone mat, by the way, works like a charm and heats up very fast. For the S5, it's important to purchase the extended cable set because the stock cables are just too short!
Thanks for the great comment. My printer allowed me to disconnect the original pad and still set the program temp below room temp. I didn't know about the extended cable set, that would be a big help and let me get the control box built with the cable feeder the correct way.
Well a planter plus years of neglect and a extra pent house added to the plans after the fact,, oh not to mention corruption. And if you don’t think it’ll happen again, you’re sorely mistaken
Yeah, good points. It looks like bad design, bad construction, bad maintenance, and bad inspections. Florida passed laws requiring better inspections, but there are no qualified people to do all the work. I just hope the next one does not kill so many people. Thanks for the comment.
Agreed, it would have been much easier to work my way up from a smaller printer, and I sure would like a printer that auto-levels, but this one works OK. Thanks for the kind words.
Did you ever figure out how to bypass the software for the old heat bed? I still have mine hooked up and have it set to 0. Unfortunately every time I start a new project I have to go back in and reset it to 0 again.
I use Simplify 3D so that lets me set the bed temperature under 25 C so that the print starts as soon as the nozzle temp is reached. Still, I have been leaving the bed temp at 75 C in Simplify. I don't mind having to reset it with the control box every time, since that reminds me to make sure the external heater box is up to the temperature I want.
Thank you for the thorough video. I just finished the same installation. Would you mind detailing your solution for telling the printer the bed temperature. Thanks in advance.
I used the same file I did for printing with the internal heater control. I set the bed temperature on the external box and waited the few minutes for it to stabilize. Then I went into the control menu of the Creality control box and changed the bed temperature to under 25 degrees C, ie room temperature. That fools the Creality software and the print will start, as long as the set nozzle temperature is reached.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gp9Q7WQyLEg.html We are both from Cleveland Ohio, so it might be our Midwestern accent more than looks.
Any more on this ole beast? I have one and bought upgrades, and not sure direction of my build, but evolving and I like you plan do get it working properly
Not sure if the author of this video ended up with the same problem but running the wires out the back as shown, ended up having my belt rub the wires clear and exposed and also broke the thermistor wire. The belt kept rubbing on the wire loom and of course you cannot see that as it is under everything. When the unit quit working it just quit heating at first and then eventually I got an error code in the middle of a print. Print finished even though the bed was cold. After unplugging it, I flipped it over to find the Thermistor wire snapped, and the other two wires and the orange shroud completely rubbed off and wires exposed. After replacing and soldering as well as putting some better heat shrink around it, I turned it 90 degrees so the wires come out the side instead of the back. I just used two zip ties to put a natural curve in the wire so it isn't hitting the side frame and then 3D printed some blocks to raise the entire frame about 2.5" up off the table. This allows gravity to drop the wires down to wear they can not rub now. It also allows easier access to the tiny knobs for leveling. At any rate, not sure if the belt has rubbed anyone else the wrong way but took me down for a few days to figure out what was going on and there were 3 failed attempts to fix it before I turned it 90.
I mounted the pad so that the cord comes out the back left corner. Then I bring in the cord from that corner too. It does not get anywhere near the Y-axis belt, but it does rub on the frame, so I inspect that area of the cord every use. I love your idea of printing some guide blocks, very clever. I will revisit this cord issue and I hope I can avoid these problems. Thanks for the great comment.
For the life of me I can’t figure out how to loosen the tension on the cables! Even with the pin below 1 weight the stations are barely moveable! Any ideas?
Wow, the cables are really tricky and it could be anything. You should just go over the instructions in the gym again, and make sure that you are using the right cable in the right place. They print the length of the cables on a little collar on the end. It is a number in centimeters I think. Verify you are putting the right cable in the right place and then try to follow the video again, while looking at the diagrams that come with the gym. It took me a long time to realize that there are two "main cables, that go from the station to the weight stacks, and then the other cables pull on this main cable from the side to provide weight for the other stations. Keep the faith, you can figure it out!
@@Rako_Studios thank you so much!! We will double check all of it and I’ll keep you posted! We might wait a couple days and let the frustration die down but fingers crossed we can figure it out! Thank you for getting back to me!
