Really nice explanation of the inner working of the TC, thank you! I just have to correct something. At 6:25 if the 4WD is disengaged, the chain will still be spinning since the front diff and its shaft is not disengaged by the wheels.
Appreciate the insight! I just started printing the pieces for a tower since I’d like to start growing more vegetables and becoming more self sufficient. Any recommendations for vegetables that enjoy this hydroponic process?
Regardless how tight or looses I initially have the spring knobs, keep finding that the back left (190*190) just won't loosen enough for me to get the paper under. It moves just fine, like all the others, but for some reason I just cant get it low enough from the nozzle to get paper in. Could I set my Z-Offset from that corner and work around from there, finally ending back in the middle and adjusting Z-Offset if it's off?
That is quite common with these printers. Do you have the thick glass bed or the thin magnetic sheet? If you tighten it all the way and adjust the other 3 properly does it work ok?
@@autotech4103 Thin magnetic sheet. In all honesty, I'm somewhat confused as to what would be considered a 'starting point' for tightness. I have had the printer working fine, and yes, the back left was fully tight, but I re-levelled recently and am having all kinds of problems. I'm finding now that after stetting the z-axis to a negative in the middle of the bed, then using your instructions to level the 4 corners, when I go back to the middle I have a completely different number to that with which I started, and this is resulting in the first layer not adhering to the bed.
@@jeffthomas3707 everytime you adjust a knob, it does make a change to all of them. So adjusting them all 3 times is normal. The print head has rollers that could be loose causing a z issue as well. The rollers that travel up the z also affect z height. Check to see if those rollers are loose. If they are, there is a nut on one that adjusts to take the slack out.
@@autotech4103 Thanks for taking the time to help. He's where I'm at right now... I've followed the proceedure as: Autohome > Lower Z Axis to 0 > ran Z Offset into negatives until it grips then added a little more as you suggest > Front Left > Back Left > Back Right > Front Right > applied this rotation 4 times until all 4 corners were gripping without the need for adjustment > Autohome > Z Axis to 0 > Adjust Z Offset until it grips > Auto Bed Level. After doing this, I attempt a print. When the nozle runs up and down the left hand side of the bed it extrudes nicely but as soon as it moves to the centre to lay down the skirt, there's nothing. The filament just collects around the nozzle. I know there's no nozzle blockage so would this be a case for glue stick on the print bed or is there another reason it might do this?
Why did it hydro lock. I’m curious because I just bought a 1988 with a 4.3 V6, boats in great condition, ran great, good oil pressure, wasn’t over heating, but it just seized. No water in oil. I unhooked drive belts and removed starter. But engine seems seized or maybe something in stern drive is seized.
The exhaust manifolds on these motors transport exhaust and water to reenter the body of water. There are seals that can go wrong or part cracking. In my case it was a bad gasket.
@@autotech4103 I removed plugs, all belts and starter, still seized. I’m tearing down in the next few weeks was just curious what you found because it seemed like you had the same issue.
Thank you! I was starting to thin I was going nuts! Your video was the best ive seen so far for how to do this and it corrected alot of the issues I was having.
@@autotech4103 Is there a spreadsheet somewhere of best practices? meaning if you are trying to print fine detail setting ranges should be x to y. If you are printing something large that doesnt have fine detail a to c.
@@edtoomuchfun957 layer height is the main thing you will change for detail. 0.2mm is standard height for most prints. Smaller prints that you would like less visual layer lines can be decreased as low as 0.1mm. Larger prints you want to print faster and have more strength can be increase to about 0.3mm.
Clean the plate with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and while printing adjust the “z offset” in the “tune menu” while it’s printing its first layer. The first layer should be lightly squished into the build plate.
I just changed the oil in my mitsubishi transfer case and found a large chunk of metal on the magnet. It doesn't appear to be a tooth (seems quite soft). Any idea what could break off inside the case? Getting ready to refurbish it regardless.
I've failed using this printer for months. I'm trying to get it to work. I'm using your profile for PLA right now. Here's hoping it gets it close to start... Edit: This is the closest I've gotten the printer to work. It didn't fail! That is fading awesome! THANK YOU! I can fine-tune from here.
Hey, that's the same towers I'm printing/using. I did some modifications on mine, but these beat the heck out of those $400 non-interlocking ones online! I like your light brackets too... I need those
Two great hobbies put together! Gardening and 3d printing! Very motivating! Im thinking if there is some way to get a lazy Susan on a motor and just use the sunlight from the window? I realize the pump needs to be plugged in as well. But maybe its possible to wire up one with a plug in the base of it or something? Very inspiring!
This is relatively new to me. I grew two tomato plants in this tower and they did well. I decided having different needs in plants in one tower was a mistake. So if I print more towers I will do a tomato or strawberry tower
I myself have a CR-X Pro which I have modded quite a bit, and I was looking into ways to attach my dial indicator and this seems to be the most easy. Do you happen to have the .STL available for download somewhere?
I don’t have it anymore unfortunately. I took a picture of the front and inserted the picture into fusion 360 and traced it. Gave it tolerance and printed it
I did all this and I’m still having trouble with mine. I tried Cura,and Creality Slicer. It reads what came on the SD card. I had luck with one slice download. Can anyone help 🙏 😢
Hello everyone, I'm encountering an issue with my 3D printer, the Ender 3 Creality Max Neo. The LCD screen on the printer isn't displaying anything, even though the firmware has been uploaded. Initially, the screen appeared a few times but then went blank again, and now it's completely off. Is there anyone who can provide a solution? Thank you.
Hello, I am working with the Honda GX390 engine. I need to determine the valve timing, how can I do this or do you have this information? This is the information I mean; 1) Intake valve opening angle:? 2) Intake valve closing angle? 3) Exhaust valve opening angle? 4) Exhaust valve closing angle?
I imagine you are using this engine for a high performance application? There are forums for "Carting" such as 4cycle.com/karting/threads/honda-gx390-stock-timing-what-are-you-getting.87635/ The information is probably not release from Honda themselves as they don't want to be messing with warranty claims and such. Hope this helps........
Hello, I am working with the Honda GX390 engine. I need to determine the valve timing, how can I do this or do you have this information? This is the information I mean; 1) Intake valve opening angle:? 2) Intake valve closing angle? 3) Exhaust valve opening angle? 4) Exhaust valve closing angle?
That car would need the engine pulled out most likely. You need to pop off the intake manifold and remove all the rocker arms to get out the lifters. Then the front of the engine is disassembled to remove the timing chain. The cam is pulled out of the front of the engine.
Great explanation, my RAM 1500 except those 3 modes have also 4-Auto mode which in my conclusion operates most of the time on 2 rear wheel drive (2 High) but can enable front wheels in case of loosing grip(4 High). I drive on this mode all the time which means the chain is not moving by 99,9% of time. Does it mean it is not lubricating upper part of transfer case? Maybe I should change mode to 4 Hi or 4 Low from time to time?
I am getting some kind of weird error - When I Auto home and set Z-offset manually it for first time after manual and auto leveling, it feels correct .Then I again Auto home it to check the z-offset level but this time its high up to 0.1mm to 0.2mm error of margin
Make sure the rollers on the bottom of the bed and the rollers on the extruder are adjusted to remove any side to side play. It could definitely be the cause
Great visual on transfer case Operation, any idea how the steering angle affects modern transfer cases shifting in 4 low automatically when turning. Experiencing some T case issues myself and before i pull it out i was curious on the relation between my steering column and my transfer case
Turning and shifting to 4LO is definitely a weird one. I’d imagine it being an electrical issue. Not sure how anything in the tcase could cause it. What kind of vehicle?
I have the Neo v2, and after printing PETG a 240 a few times, it slightly melted the feed hose, causing the extruder to skip, because it couldnt push the filament through the melted tube. I had to get a tube that was rated for higher heat, and put a different style heat break. It fixed the extruder skipping, but now I'm dealing with other really odd issues like under extrusion, and weird leveling artifacts no matter how many times I level.
I would check the wobble in the bed. The rollers that the bed moves back and forth on have an adjustment. As far as the under extrusion problem, maybe the heat brake was plugged like mine.
I decided to have some fun for the month of leprechauns and green! This recipe was made by splitting my sourdough bread into two batches, and adding a lot of fresh and dried dill to one of the batches. I also added about two teaspoons of dried spirulina powder for green colouring. It turned out well and will make a wonderful bread for cold ham or chicken sandwiches for lunch!
