Been looking everywhere for a solid tutorial. All the others had me dragging the print nozzle, damaging the bed. New bed, new springs, I'm a happy man.
This video helped me out a lot thank you I just bought an ender 3 max neo and for the life of me no matter what I did I could not get it leveled i watched so many videos and tried so many different methods I came across this one and it was able to get it leveled no problem.
Dont forget to go into settings and press "store settings", so the mesh saves after you completed the final autoleveling. Otherwise, the mesh disappears after your turn off the printer and turn it on the next time.
Honestly I saw the 20 minute time and thought....no way. BUT it was totally worth the time. The Creality instructions are crap. Disabling the steppers always felt weird to me. I've been wrestling with a specific print and it's been driving me NUTS. Followed these instructions and the printer is running soooo smooth. I was amazed at how far off a few of my corners were. Amazing video, thank you!
much appreciated! I didn't know that you could adjust the z-offset while it is printing...something small but incredibly helpful...Just got an ender 3 neo yesterday been trying to print this low poly skull all day watched several videos on bed "leveling" and yours was the one that that got me on the right track so thank you for that!!! unfortunately I can only give one like, or I d give u more :-) thanks again!!!
I could kiss you right now!!!. I am having a lot of BLtouch issues, then it wants to work then it doesn't want to work...this vid helped a lot. Bless you, bru!
Have watched a few videos that quickly asked you to level after turning the motor off, but this one made much more sense, and have me a better understanding of the axis on the printer. Thanks for explaining and taking the time to share!
Thank you so much for this. Been going around in circles, literally, with my first 3D printer trying to level the bed. Your instructions were not only clear and simple to follow, but got the results that had previously eluded me with no fuss at all.
was pulling my hair out and not being able to level the bed watched loads of videos but none as clear as this it maybe a long process but it works and definitely worth it cheers for the help!
Hey man, I want to personally thank you. I’ve been messing with this printer since I got off work for four hours. I think I got it now I appreciate it.
I've tired multiple way to level the bed by many different people and I have to say that your method has worked very well, thanks so much for putting this information out. Thanks again!
Two days ago, I bought this printer and after a while I came to exactly this calibration. But how scared I was when the nozzle hit the table hard. It was around 1-1.5 mm lower than it should. Watching the way your springs shrink made life easier, thanks ;D
Great video! Very clear instructions and smart to use the MOVE function to move the X and Y. I previously followed a setup guide by a different channel which had me disable the steppers and move the X and Y manually by hand, which provides a risk of moving the Z. This feels way more controlled and precise. Removing human input as much as possible is great since the tensioning of the springs and "feeling" of the paper against the nozzle is as too much human input already in my opinion.
Thank you! I was starting to thin I was going nuts! Your video was the best ive seen so far for how to do this and it corrected alot of the issues I was having.
@@autotech4103 Is there a spreadsheet somewhere of best practices? meaning if you are trying to print fine detail setting ranges should be x to y. If you are printing something large that doesnt have fine detail a to c.
@@edtoomuchfun957 layer height is the main thing you will change for detail. 0.2mm is standard height for most prints. Smaller prints that you would like less visual layer lines can be decreased as low as 0.1mm. Larger prints you want to print faster and have more strength can be increase to about 0.3mm.
Oh wow. This is exactly what I've been looking for.. I have chased this issue forever on my Ender 3 v2 (my first and only 3dp).. My springs are barely tight, and nowhere near snug/compressed enough. This is a key note that no one has explained before. I will give this a go later today, and see if I can get it good to go. I do know that the center of my bed/glass always seems a touch lower than my corners. I'll keep you updated, if you're interested.
@@autotech4103 Thanks again! I spent about 45 mins leveling it out. I followed your instruction, after I tightened the bed adjusters to where the bolt was about 1/8-3/16" poked out. Then leveled it out using your method. Once done, I ran a mesh scan and was within +.03 to -.05mm within home's zero!
Dude this is amazing, I've recently got on of these and been leveling it all wrong and having major issues, I'll be doing this later to see if it solves my issues as I'm getting really frustrated with it, as it was second hand and don't want to have wasted my money on my dream printer.
Fantastic video, i was struggling to setup my new neo bed,but this is the best bed levelling video out there on RU-vid. Thank you so much..subbed as well.
NOT ONE OTHER VIDEO I WATCHED SHOWED HOW TO MANUALLY MOVE THE BED!!! When your new to 3D printing the explanations need to be very, very basic. Haven’t tried this yet, but I will be back to update this if it does!
Exactly this comment. Iv been fucking around for two weeks 12 hour days trying to get this stupid Neo to print. Watched this video. Changed nozzle. Bitch prints brand new again.
Just set up mine yesterday and attempting to calibrate it correctly, the nozzle left an engraving in the print bed. Wish I could have seen this video sooner. Thanks for the great information!
I could never get reliable z offset with this method, my go to method now is to print a one layer thick rectangle and start with z offset further away from the bed and then change it until it starts sticking and now i have beautiful smooth first layer and the bed tramming i use a thickness gauge instead of paper
Good advice. Sounds like you might appreciate this video. 3D Printer Precision Bed Levelling ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jv0UA9_UOG4.html
Thank you so much for making a great , clear in depth video about this. Just for my own clarity. To start fresh and from zero what tension should I put on the leveling knobs. Have them all pretty tight to bring it low and that way as I back off the little by little it still is pretty tight
The springs are meant to compress if something goes wrong while printing and a large blob forms on the nozzle. Ideally they will only have a bit of compression when setup but your at the mercy of getting it level
@@autotech4103 Any upgrades that youdnrecommend i moved on from a old cr10 v1 , started printing half a year ago . Any printable upgrades for the E3V2 neo would be cool to know :)
@@lietus4192 if you are just printing PLA then this printer is well equipped. If you are doing hotter materials then upgrading the build plate and hotend would be a recommendation. A filament guide isn’t a bad idea. I’m sure thingiverse has lots of options.
Замість паперу краще використовувати полоски для регулювання клапанів. Хто б що не говорив, та це дійсно краще дозволяє регулювати стіл і давати точніші показники.
i was trying to level one corner and with the Z on 0.0 it was ripping the paper evern when i lowered the springs. This is my first printer so i am still trying to learn
I would check to make sure the z axis home switch is mounted all the way down first. It is pretty normal to have to squish the springs most of the way down to get it working right.
even at -5 z offset, after autohoming, my nozzle is way too high. however i cant locate the z end stop which i would like to move lower. i have the creality ender 3 v2 neo... im so confused as how the nozzle got so high. the bed is leveled and has brought it up higher without the screws falling off entirely.
I am getting some kind of weird error - When I Auto home and set Z-offset manually it for first time after manual and auto leveling, it feels correct .Then I again Auto home it to check the z-offset level but this time its high up to 0.1mm to 0.2mm error of margin
Make sure the rollers on the bottom of the bed and the rollers on the extruder are adjusted to remove any side to side play. It could definitely be the cause
This seems very complicated comapred to others, why don;t you just unlock the stepper motors and move the bed manually to each of the 4 corners and adjust, then do the auto, like all the other videos show?? Any advantage?
Because when you disable the stepper motors the z axis motor is free to me as well. Any fine movement of the z during this process defeats the work you are trying to accomplish. This works for me
@@autotech4103 OK, makes sense that if they are disabled whenever you push the head across yes, you do run a high risk of the height altering, will do it your way.
Z offset is stored as the last setting it was left at. No saving necessary. Everytime you auto bed level, it keeps that info in its computer until you do it again.
I did your thing it kinda worked but every time i start a print it goes too High making it not stick/become spaghetti on the top of the nozzle. Could you tell me if you also had this issue at the start?
Z offset is a setting used to fix this problem. You can go into “tune” when the print starts and click on z offset. When it starts printing you change the z offset to the ideal height. You want the filament to be a tad “squished”
I'm a total newbie to 3d printing and got the Neo as an early Christmas present. Got a few good prints, then my PLA couldn't get a grip on the bed. I followed your instructions for the manual bed leveling, but have some questions: After setting the final Z offset which was a little lower than the initial one, when I turned the printer off, the nozzle went down very tight into the bed - is that normal? Can I just adjust that Z number at the auto home position again, or should I go through the whole leveling process again? Also, are we supposed to preheat before leveling? One more thing, will taking the flexible PEI top off after every print make it go out of level? Thank you for your videos.
The z offset can be adjusted during the start of each print if necessary. The idea is that the filament should be lightly squished onto the bed. If you have completed the manual bed leveling process then I would click on auto level before each print. You do not need to preheat before leveling and I would not manual bed level after sliding off the magnetic plate. For the time it takes, I would use the automatic bed leveling feature before every print.
Regardless how tight or looses I initially have the spring knobs, keep finding that the back left (190*190) just won't loosen enough for me to get the paper under. It moves just fine, like all the others, but for some reason I just cant get it low enough from the nozzle to get paper in. Could I set my Z-Offset from that corner and work around from there, finally ending back in the middle and adjusting Z-Offset if it's off?
That is quite common with these printers. Do you have the thick glass bed or the thin magnetic sheet? If you tighten it all the way and adjust the other 3 properly does it work ok?
@@autotech4103 Thin magnetic sheet. In all honesty, I'm somewhat confused as to what would be considered a 'starting point' for tightness. I have had the printer working fine, and yes, the back left was fully tight, but I re-levelled recently and am having all kinds of problems. I'm finding now that after stetting the z-axis to a negative in the middle of the bed, then using your instructions to level the 4 corners, when I go back to the middle I have a completely different number to that with which I started, and this is resulting in the first layer not adhering to the bed.
@@jeffthomas3707 everytime you adjust a knob, it does make a change to all of them. So adjusting them all 3 times is normal. The print head has rollers that could be loose causing a z issue as well. The rollers that travel up the z also affect z height. Check to see if those rollers are loose. If they are, there is a nut on one that adjusts to take the slack out.
@@autotech4103 Thanks for taking the time to help. He's where I'm at right now... I've followed the proceedure as: Autohome > Lower Z Axis to 0 > ran Z Offset into negatives until it grips then added a little more as you suggest > Front Left > Back Left > Back Right > Front Right > applied this rotation 4 times until all 4 corners were gripping without the need for adjustment > Autohome > Z Axis to 0 > Adjust Z Offset until it grips > Auto Bed Level. After doing this, I attempt a print. When the nozle runs up and down the left hand side of the bed it extrudes nicely but as soon as it moves to the centre to lay down the skirt, there's nothing. The filament just collects around the nozzle. I know there's no nozzle blockage so would this be a case for glue stick on the print bed or is there another reason it might do this?
16:13 I'm so confused. Why is the middle of the bed "higher" than the corners? It didn't dig in the paper at the corners, why does it do that after auto homing?
build plate flatness comes into question. Every printer is different and warped/bent beds are pretty common with this price point of a printer. The nice thing about the CR touch is that it can compensate a bed that isn't perfectly flat.
I can't for the life of me figure this out even with watching the video. I have the ender 3 neo and the z offset is set at 2.100 right out of the box. Which direction do I change that in order to start messing with springs.
I would bed level with the z offset at the zero position. Changing the number towards more negative makes the nozzle move towards the bed while making the number more positive moves it up away from the bed.
@@autotech4103 your explanation helps! now can i bother you, with my question please. can i turn the manual level knob up, what does it means? does it meant that the bed corner goes literally up? and turning the knob down, literally meant it goes down? lol yes i am a noob.
@@ridzjustanobody if you look closely at the plastic knob, the arrow shows direction of rotation and “up”. Turn the knob that direction to move the bed up
lol, or, go one click down and "disable stepper". Here's the right way to do it, from the manufacturer, that apparently doesn't exist - if you believe everything you see on the internet... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NJj-QtXUsps.html
Wow, wonder if that channel is actually run by Creality……lol. Too bad they don’t prompt these steps in the manual that comes with the printer. Good find!!
@@autotech4103 Im sure it does, but i not following. Some elements I dont understand. Are you moving 'the wheels' so the z is at a good place when Z=0 or Z=-3.5, is 3.5 stored or does it have to go somewhere in the gcode you want to run. ?? Does one have to tell the gcode generator about this -3.5 ??
@@sammorganmoore I am moving the wheels under the bed to only level the bed. I am setting the z offset on the printer to bring the nozzle down to the bed. If you want your z offset to be zero it would take much more work.
@@autotech4103 stored.. or stored when you 'save settings' - I get that making instructionals like this is really hard becuasue you dont know what bagage your audience brings.
