I'm a corporate refugee turned-carpenter. If I'm not building something in my shop for a client, I am making something for my family or friends, going offroad in my truck, or cooking up some wild game that I hunted.
You guys should really not be using the hitch balls for this - great way to hurt someone. Hooking up directly to the hitch receiver or a shackle would be much safer because you're less likely to snap one and launch a super dangerous projectile.
@Wallymakesstuff I am working on cutting the brackets out, and as I am lowering the wheel, I realized.... how can someone not just take this spare? Lol. I bought an ignition key padlock to use the existing chain to lock up the wheel.. I may add another chain with padlock.
I’m throwing a set of these on my Gladiator I heard you mention you are running 25 pounds off-road but what are you running on road pressure at ? Thanks
Oh, and I seriously recommend just watching vids on RU-vid of what the Billsteen 8112s can do! It's very impressive. The only way to describe them is, that these shocks are faster than the engine, the chassis; faster than the whole truck itself. So fast u begin to run out of throttle. And the sheer rebound of these shocks makes the ground quake. Dude they f*king badass!
Yeah I was sold on them by watching those videos. I don’t think I’ll ever outdrive them, but I know my ride is sooooo much smoother and easier to control now.
It will definitely change your alignment one way or another - and you should get it aligned at a shop asap if you haven’t yet. I don’t know what part of my alignment changed, but assume everything did to some degree and had it aligned right afterwards.
So far so good! It still makes a big difference if the cooler is packed full to the brim for ice retention, so for the longer trips I’ll still use frozen milk jugs to hold the ice longer and then pull those and just use these to keep the meat cool once there’s a harvest.
@@dannyumana143that’s 2.25” wider than stock, so I’d suggest measuring that down from where your factory tire is and see where it sits. It probably won’t be the lowest point on your vehicle, but you’d just want to remember what the clearance looks like when going over big obstacles
I just purchased some Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T in 35x12.5x17 for my 2019 Ford Raptor. I still have to do a chalk test but am currently running 40 psi in the front and 38 psi in the rear.
Did you factor tube volume compared to JL's TS parameters? I built 2 handmade fiberglass tube's for the 8w3's and one for 13w3 using JL's parameters. I designed a complete peripheral port around the subs diameter...a tube within a tube. The 8's were louder and extremely punchy for kick drum tracks. The 13 was very deep, clean and fat. I also did what "experts" claim you shouldn't... Ran all three on a single JL XD 600.1 Turns out, it was perfectly fine and music quality and volume rivaled mor3 powerful, more expensive systems.
Dude that is brilliant! I’ve been thinking of doing something similar using epoxy resin with concrete form tubes for a downfiring sub in our home. I did run the numbers for JL spec and it lined up perfectly for the volume of the bazooka tube. In fact, I thought of making these from pvc, but when I saw the spec was just right and I had that extra old tube, that’s when I chose to go this route. I’d love to hear what you built!
I’d have to try it to know, however, I couldn’t even fit a 10” under this seat, it’s just too low, and with a box that shallow, it would take up all my storage space, vs these tubes allow room for all my tools. I’ll say though, the pair of them sounds like a decent quality 10” to my ears anyway, and less boomy. So if you’re after saving space and SQ, this is a great way to go.
If you havent i highly recommended imo to get and use foam cup enclosures fornthe doors, they help focus the sound out an help with door resonating <3 love the restore
Great review,thanks for doing this testing as I installed one of these dry filters in my 2005 Sprinter which is way underpowered with a 2.7L Turbo diesel as I was hoping it would give me a little more pickup and a little better mileage. With the stock 15 inch standard hwy tires I was getting about 20 to 21 miles per gallon but I upgraded to larger AT tires that are about an inch and a half more in diameter as I do alot of camping put in the sticks and travel on dirt roads. So now it seems that based on the odometer and doing the math on the gallons of fuel being used I am getting only around 16 to 17 miles per gallon which is a significant drop. I did not want to go through the hassle of having a dealership mess with the tire wheel sensors so I just installed a GPS monitor for MPH and some other features like a compass etc. I noticed that the van is in reality going two more miles per hour than is showing on the vans speedometer, so im wondering if I need to recalculate the mileage and add 2 more miles to the total miles the vans odometer is saying I traveled for me to get the actual mileage? Im asking because you mentioned using your larger tires and going by a GPS for your miles traveled when calculating correct mileage. Any advice would be appreciated.
Yes, you have to do the math. If your circumference is 10% greater than stock, for example, then you’d add 10% to the mileage based on your odometer. Or just use the gps mileage to calculate it instead. You’re probably getting 1-2 mpg higher than you think.
@@Wallymakesstuff Thats about what I was thinking as I could not believe that the mileage dropped that much just by adding an inch an a half to the diameter of the wheels and the tires are also made for HWY use so they are not real knobby. This really makes me feel alot better about things. Thanks again man for taking the time to help out those in need. Do you still feel like now after more time has passed and testing on that AFE dry filter that you are still getting improved mileage at about 2 more miles per gallon?
@@treasurefinder7753you’re welcome. Yes - I think the mileage did improve about 2mpg highway, probably 1 in town (the higher rotation diameter takes a bit more throttle to get up to speed in town). I also removed that carbon filter at the same time though, so it’s probably a combination of things. It’s worth a try since you’ll save money on filter replacement anyway, at the very least.
Press on the trigger less… it’s an impact that have no variable speed mode (ie speed 1,2,3). My uncle has one… I think it sucks because it’s so weak and you have to get a good sense of how hard to squeeze Bottom line. Get an impact with multiple speed options… I use speed 1 for screwing delicates shid, speed 2 for regular screwing, and the only time I use speed 3 is when I’m using torx screws that won’t be seems
Excellent video! Informative, good flow, exactly the tid bit of info ibwas after. I'm constructing a larger but standard design tool shed into a large chicken coop / garden equipment storage. Was on the fence about using bedliner for the flooring. But you sold me! I appreciate your content!
Hey thanks for the comment! Glad that was helpful for you. There are different formulas for bed liner and I know they aren’t all created equal. I’ve been really happy with the Monstaliner though 👍
Why do they call tek drivers impact drivers? Impact drivers have a 1/2" square drive for sockets. Like the original impact drivers that you hit with a hammer. Driver drills have chucks and tek drivers clip the hex shaft bits in.
Sorry, I couldn't listen to this video. When you begin by saying that this is a $2,000 machine, I understand that you don't know what you are talking about. Maybe your video is quality after that mistake, but I can't take the chance of destroying my espresso machine when I already know from the beginning that you are not well informed and you are fine with spreading misinformation.
@@charles5856no, I’m not sorry. But I do feel sad for you to be upset so easily. Life is too short to be upset about someone getting a price wrong. My best friend gave this setup to me, and I was wrong about what all of it cost. What a shame.
There’s a demo in the sequel: More BASS for your small space Pt Deux: Audio Sampling and SPL ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TwnC6FmFm6c.html
Hey, thanks for the video. Can you make a video of you using both attachments with the vacuum? I think that alone makes this tool worth it, but haven’t seen it in use in videos much
I’m unaware of a vacuum attachment for the vecturo - didn’t exist when I bought it, and I’ve learned to just hold the vacuum hose up against it when in use. I do recall the Fein had a vac hose hookup when I bought this and almost went that route instead, until I read that it’s more effective to hold the hose by the blade instead of using the vac attachment anyway.
Thank you for the reminder - yes, I had planned on doing something once I used this on my hunting boots during some rough weather. I’ll say however - on my work boots, this stuff has been the best I’ve ever used. Needs the least amount of reapplication, keeps the leather clean and water resistant, and doesn’t over saturate or soften it too much.
Thx for the post, super helpful. I, too, have the new sealed ones in a box and was going to have a shop install but they can't do it in time before a trip I have coming up. FWIW I could never find a grease that clearly matched the specs described for the original ball joints and I spent a lot of time looking. It's likely it may be readily available, but I never found one labeled the same as what they recommend. I have also read on the FB GXOR group that people are seeing failures on the sealed ball joint replacement sooner than expected, too, so TBD on that. Please update us on the lifespan performance of yours. thx!
Thanks for the note and glad this was helpful. I am already seeing play on my driver side ball joint. According to SPC, 1/50” is normal, and it’s right around that so they wouldn’t warranty it. Only 5,000mi on it. Seems unacceptable to me… I’m keeping my eyes on it and if it gets much worse, will replace the entire set of UCA’s with either JBA HD or Bilsteins. It’s also been a pain to have alignment shops not know what to do with them, or use them to pull the alignment back to +3 factory setting and then find out I’m running and have to take it back in. IMO a fixed +4 castor arm is the way to go.
Finger control tells you exactly how much further to go, without going too far. You'll hear the hits slow down if you use finger control to just apply enough power to turn the screw slowly. When it stops, the screw is seated.
Gen 4 Milwaukee impact driver is junk went through two of them in less than three weeks got my money back third time the hammers weld its self to the planetary gear piece that strikes the anvil watch torque test channel they went through five and two of them was in just testing
1. That beam has more ridges and valleys than the western United States. (Sanding or properly planeing would fix this flaw) 2. M12 surge gives the best feedback for installation and removal of household fasteners. 3. The beam has a split at the end. (Epoxy single part quick set)
Awesome video! We greatly appreciate the shout-out and support! So sorry to hear about the fiasco with the alignment shop though. Those can always be a rodeo.
Thank you Colton! Yeah… and despite the last shop getting it dialed, I just found that they didn’t give enough tire clearance with the castor when turning full arc. Back to the shop again!
