IF YOU'RE USING Z-CLIPS: Check out our updated video on How To Install your Corner Bass Traps with ease using the Z-Clip Method 👇 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GHQnSQ07hQ4.html
Thanks! So long as the inner core is made from the correct material, either thickness would work wonderfully at the first order reflection point! The main differentiation between a 6 inch thick and 4 inch thick panel is going to be in your frequencies below 200 Hz. However, they should both provide full spectrum coverage at that depth! The audible difference between the those depths may even be completely negligible, depending on your room. You might find my new short video helpful on this topic. It covers how acoustic panel thickness affects frequency absorption: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rj6XfXOia_Y.html
I hear you! It's July 3rd and it's 10pm. My neighborhood sounds like a war zone. Everyday sounds of the road, emergency vehicles, lawn mowers and the EVER present chainsaws😡 I am sensitive to noise and hate it. Noise pollution and it's cousin light pollution have a very negative affect on me.
Lol I feel your pain! People need to become more considerate (and aware) when it comes to environmental noise. Recently morning construction/digging nearby has been driving us mad! 😵💫You’re right! Light pollution is another BIG problem that often doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. It's time to raise awareness and take action for a healthier and better sounding world! 🌍💜🖤
the police violently shot people in my neighborhood at 1 to 3 am two times in the week or so leading up to the 4th of july so every time i heard fireworks for no reason in the middle of the night on june 30th it takes me a minute to realize it's not the police murdering someone in front of my apartment again.
Citations and sources show on the screen as the video plays and are mentioned by the presenters. All of these facts can be Googled if you need any additional information or confirmation. Thank you for your feedback 💜🖤
That’s a great question! Both of them are effective. However, the corner straddle designed bass traps (with a 16in air gap) are going to give you “more bang for your buck“ with less overall materials - the reason being (in all studies/ methods of testing) whenever any material is 16 inches from a wall/surface it has an increased frequency absorption coefficient - specifically in the low end. This concept is being utilized in the corner straddle design. Making them extremely effective. The full corner triangle bass traps are an older industry design/model - usually anywhere from 12 to 24 inches thick (to fill up an entire corner). Which is completely unnecessary - because IF you’re using the CORRECT materials, you will already get full frequency absorption at about 4 to 5 inches of depth and anything beyond that largely gives you diminishing returns. So, it’s essentially unnecessary, when you consider that it requires more material, costs more to build, would cost more to ship and after all of this, it wouldn’t even be “more effective“ than the other (corner straddled) design.
@@NGAcoustics thanks for reaching out please am redesigning ma home studio n i was wondering if i shuld put difussors or acoustic panel at the back wall ( actually i was tinking of designing ma own scatter face diffussor
Who told you that gold had the highest conductivity. It’s not true even copper is a better conductive material thin gold also silver problem with them is they tarnish. Gold doesn’t tarnish. And that’s why it’s used in electronics.
Literally, yes - that is the point here (and is addressed in the video). Because other metals tarnish overtime, lowering their conductivity. Thus allowing gold to retain its conductive qualities overtime much better than the other materials etc. Hopefully that makes sense and thanks for the comment. 💜 (See the infographic @1:37)
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I know with proper eq, I can make an SM57 sound like an SM7B. But can I make the same mic sound similar, if not exactly the same as a Rode NT1? For reference, there's a channel called Every Frame a Painting. He uses an NT1. Can I get such sound with an SM57?
Why is it a mystery to people that carpet makes a room sound better? Try adding book cases with lots of different size books, standing and stacked on their sides randomly. People absolutely ruin their rooms making them sterile and plain inside because that's what they read and hear from the so called professional stereo groups with their mic's and computer software. Create a enjoyable room to be in, the music will sound much better.
Wow awesome! Never heard that before. DEFINITELY going to look into it. The Aztecs have an absolutely fascinating culture. Maybe I can include that into a video I’ve been making about ancient War trumpets found in Tutankhamen‘s burial tomb!! Thanks for the info! 🤘
You do need 6 inches for the bass notes in a piano room. It does significantly better than 4 inches at very low frequencies. On the other hand, It seems there is no reason to use any panels thinner than 4 inches unless your budget is tight. Why use 2 inches that selectively absorbs mid and high frequencies? That would distort the sound.
There are many scenarios in which a thinner panel is desired, even necessary! We don’t offer thinner panels on our website, but there are companies who do 1/4 inch thick panels, 1/2in thickness etc. and they are commonly used for day-to-day and commercial purposes. Often times for spaces such as classrooms, conference rooms, living spaces or anything else where they just need the excessive reverberation addressed and there is no need for the extra thickness. In these cases the extra thickness equates to extra unnecessary costs added on (to the shipping price, installation requirements, and unnecessary material expenditure). Not to mention, it’s very hard to discreetly work a panel that thick (such as 6in depth) into the architecture/aesthetic of many commercial spaces.
in essence, it is a bit more complicated. If broadband absorbers (porous absorbers) are the topic of this discussion, it is true, some might benefit solely from the use of thin panels which are targeted at "speech" frequencies (and above), whilst others would require a further coverage of the entire audible frequencies (Studio/home theater and such applications). Thickness is indeed an important parameter when planning a treatment strategy, but it is merely one factor of the equation. The material used, it's impedance, enclosure, spring (air gap) and angle of incidence (placement and positioning) would surely contribute to the overall effectiveness of the absorber. A futher suggested read about the quarter-wavelength (λ/4), Gas flow resistivity (GFR), porosity (pore diameter) and tortuosity would shed much light at the subject, and if already delved into it, a read of Viscosity, Friction, vibration and transmission in a porous medium would definitely assist in decision making. In short, usually, bigger is "better" for an application that requires it... Please keep in mind that broadband absorbers aren't the only option, and the combo of pressure/resonance treatment with porous/fibrous absorption could yield the desired results as well.
If you wanna build any kind of broadband absorbers use the porous absorber calculator, play with it! The thicker you go, the lower of a GFR you need your material to be. And yes, an air gap is very welcomed, but keep in mind that the "box" (the frame of your panel) should be closed off to the wall (not neccessarly sealed), this will improve your absorbtion coefficient which means more low frequency absorbtion for free.
First time hearing/reading this. Most commercial bass traps are not closed off I believe.. could you explain why it should be? Would be highly appreciated
@@anthonymuc If you close to box to the wall the absorbtion coefficient lowers itself, if you just space the entire panel from the wall that open airgap won't lower the coefficient that much. Just something I learned form John Brandt and asked him myself about sealed or not because I was confused too.
This technically is false. I don’t really care what specific guru’s advice that you follow. I know directly from the manufacturer itself, that when they do the coefficient data testing, they do two tests. (One flush to the wall and then another test 16 inches from the wall) Regardless of the material being used, this is a uniform standard across the field of acoustic absorption coefficient data testing. And regardless of the material used, whenever it has a 16 inch gap to the wall, it has a BETTER lower frequency absorption coefficient. This is well documented/proven scientific data. This also works as a double whammy allowing for corner straddled bass traps to ship using less weight/material, while providing a lower frequency absorption coefficient. We have made full corner bass traps as well as bass traps with the air gap and have had success with both styles. However, overall it’s going to largely depend on the room that you’re in, the dimensions of the room, the other Acoustic treatments within the space and what frequency problems you’re currently experiencing that determine whether or not you need a bass trap like you’re mentioning. More often than not, a corner straddled bass trap (with an air gap) is an EXCELLENT solution. 👍
@@NGAcoustics I never said that if you don’t close the box the coefficient will not lower. And I also never mentioned that an absorber with an air gap performes better than an absorber which has the whole box filled. A full panel vs a panel with a specific air gap should perform the same if calculated accordingly. My 50 cm deep panels have 40 cm of material with a 10 cm air gap because they would’ve perform the same if they were filled. My 30 cm deep panels are filled because, due to the GFR of the material I used, they would’ve been less efficient at that specific depth with an air gap.
@panickedrobert What I’m saying is that you’re wrong based off of countless tests, scientific data and easily provable/searchable data. You specifically said “closing in the bass trap would increase the frequency absorption coefficient…” Which is patently false and unproven.
It would be nice to know the exact material to purchase for making bass traps. Link? I already got a bunch of Owens Corning 703 fiberglass on order. But I’m still confused.
Awesome project! Sounds like you just need some good acoustic fabric and the materials to construct the frames at this point! Feel free to shoot me an email here: Jacob@NGAcoustics.com and I can guide you through the process. Here is a link where you can get the best quality acoustic fabrics in the game: www.ngacoustics.com/collections/acoustic-fabrics
Interesting. Appreciate the feedback! Sounds like you could use some Acoustic Panels in your room to help fix it up a little bit sonically. Feel free to send a room analysis form or shoot me an email and I’ll try to help get your room sounding a bit better. I’m probably going to do a direct comparison video in the future so people can hear for themselves if the mic needs treatment or not.
After having owned a 9' concert grand piano, I can can certainly say that the room is an EXTENSION of the instrument. And wall/ceiling treatment can be to suit your taste as to how "live" you want the room to sound. I've built my own small "room within a room" soundproof practice room which didn't have the best acoustics, but I knew that going in. I also wanted to not take $20,000+ to do it and also did not want to spend 6-9 months of my life building it. It also had to be portable so it was a compromise. What I've learned with acoustics is generally the bigger the space you can put your studio/rehersal space into, and the higher the ceilings, the better the sound will be, as long as your budget and current building/home/rental space allows for it. I.e. most people trying to retrofit a recording studio or rehearsal space into a residential setting will be constrained by ceiling height and room length/width since most folks are not going to have the luxury of having a 5000 square foot distribution-style warehouse which have 24-40 foot tall ceilings,.
Do Bookselves work as diffusers ? Where should I place it ? I'm setting up a bedroom studio setup and I have no other option than to set my monitors on the longer end of the rectangular room .AND ... There is a alumunium+glass window right behind the monitors ,,, and a wood + glass window right behind me , on the opposite wall .. BOTH WINDOWS AT THE CENTRE ....My bed is on the rear right corner of my listening position . Should I buy more absorbers or more diffusers ??? The room dimension is 18ft × 8ft .... Somebody PLEASE *HELP* !!! . Also , I haven't bought monitors yet .
Hopefully I’m not too late!! It’s going to be okay 👊 Shoot me an email here: Jacob@NGAcoustics.com and I’ll be happy to help you out. I can answer your questions and help you come up with a game to help your room sound great - regardless of the llimitations that you have currently.
Thanks for the feedback! Certainly understandable. We’ve improved upon audio quality in the newer videos. The original intent was to quickly help our customers who have questions about our room treatment products. The main issue with this video’s sound was never the room noise (or poor room acoustics) but was caused by a crappy signal chain. Made only for quick RU-vid videos. Once we added in some compression (in protools) and used better converters, everything else improved! 👍Make sure to subscribe for more updates!!
I already subscribed to your channel to be able to see all the necessary videos on the subject. Now, if there is a spelling error, it is because I am using google translator and I am writing to you from Latin America Santiago de Chile 🇨🇱 ✌🏻 (here we speak Latin Spanish)
Unfortunately I don't have instruments to measure my room (audio and video) that I built myself and not to mention that it defies the laws of architecture! 😮🤯
@@NGAcoustics Thank you for your advice. I will apply it as I progress in the improvements of my room. (at the moment I am building absorbent panels, with fiberglass foam (observing the "cinemark" rooms, I realized that 70% of the walls are with fiberglass foam and lined with fabric and that product is accessible in my country (🇨🇱).
the is a big difference in foam .. you have to use Melaminharz foam like all that stuff from Basotect ! it has to absorb waves and convert it in energy. all the rest of simple foam is a scam. do your research before spitting facts ...
hi just have a quick question i saw this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KcmQfapC9L0.html and this guy uses painters tape and double sided tape to apply the foam bass traps, how long can you leave the tape on for? (the painters tape and the double sided tape)
NOTE: 1 1/4 inch screws will work great as well! However if you’re installing a larger/heavier panel, go with something a bit bigger. You can also use smaller sized screws in combination with a wall anchor. If you’re installing heavy diffusion try to find a wall stud. Hope that helps & thanks for watching! 🔊
There’s also Room Correction Hardware though (GLM4) where things are way different. With software correction you can feel the “correction” on the eq and imaging, it sounds much better than without, so much better that you can’t go back to without, BUT, SAM Genelec The Ones do the trick without cutting or adding any frequencies or taking away volume from one channel and it’s not happening through software but through the device itself which is connected via LAN with the speakers. The imaging you get and the EVERYTHING response has no match. For me, acoustic treatment is a standard every home studio should have, on the other hand, with these speakers you go anytime to any room and you get PRO sound on the spot in about 20 seconds.
That definitely sounds like a winning combination! 👍 Great speakers + an acoustically treated room. But this can be a luxury in some cases. Software room correction tech (like Sonar etc.) has it’s place in certain circumstances. I agree with you 100% that since you already have a very nice setup, it’s practically uncalled for (between your speaker’s correction technology combined with an already decent sounding space!) Thanks for the comment! 🤘
Play around with a bucket and water and something to bob up and down in water you'll see placement of speaker is critical. Corners are not needed if you place sub correctly
Good insight! Yes SOMETIMES this is the case - however there are many times/scenarios when corner bass traps ARE actually needed, even if you DON’T have a sub! Ex. Smaller room, square/rectangular room, mastering/post production room etc. Most of this is obviously relative to what you’re doing within the space, the dimensions of the space and treatments that you currently have in there.
I'm poor. can I stack a bunch of that fluffy pink insulation rolls stacked up high in my corners? then throw a huge black fabric drape over it. would that be effective at all? yes this insulation is "fluffy" however in these rolls they are packed VERY TIGHT. so the density is higher
Actually, I don’t think you should let anything get in your way of creating! Usually having some treatment(s) is better than no treatments whatsoever (even if it’s an “incorrect density” or not even “properly placed”) it can still yield positive results over no room treatments whatsoever… Below is another video of my personal recommendation of four things you can do if you cannot currently afford acoustical panels/treatments… hope it helps! 😎 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ijqpj3dVmGk.html
Greetings. I am setting up my studio but pulling up the carpet is a no go with the wife . I want to use 6" bass traps in the corners from wall to sealing and two 4" panels in my 1st reflection area and that's it. The room is 14'x12' with 8' ceilings. What do you recommend?
Thanks for the comment! To better help you please fill out my free room analysis form (Which will give me the information I need to know about your room) & I can get back to you with an ideal treatment solution! Or we can even cover things over the phone together. Here’s a link to get you started: www.ngacoustics.com/pages/free-room-analysis
Hey i m in to new room the avilable space is A :: 15x21x10 WxLxH B::: 16x21x10 C:::: 17x21x10 Which one is good And there is no window etc only one door
Personally I would go for the 17 x 21 x 10! Another good option is to 16 x 21 x 10… But I would stay away from the 15 x 21 x 10… The dimensions with the least amount of square root numbers that can be used (between the various dimensions) the better overall!
